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MaineP15

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Hello, Just want to introduce myself. I just got a new 1949 Plymouth P15. It is my 1st Plymouth and I have only had it 3 days.

I have already done a bunch of reading on this forum, and the info is awesome.

The car was a single family owned car from 1949 and the original owners grandson sold me the car. It needs some things, but is a good solid car. I added some pictures,

 

One big question I have:

The positive wire on the coil goes to the distributor, is this set up for positive ground?

The battery is hooked up wrong if it is.  The car starts, but it starts hard, like the battery is weak, is this because the battery is hooked up like the car is negative ground? I have not looked at the ammeter to determine..

thank you for the help!

 

 

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Hey congratulations and welcome! I've been watching the car on craigslist for a while. Wondering when it was going to get snapped up looks like a really nice car. Where are you located in Maine? I travel up that way frequently love to see your car in person!

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Hello and welcome,

 Nice looking car. One of my P15s was the same green color as yours; mine was four door. Enjoy it. I believe that the wiring that you describe for your distributor is correct for a positive grounded system provided that it (the wire from the distributor) is on the +  coil terminal. The other small coil wire is negative or - terminal and comes in from the ignition switch.

John R

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As others have said. Welcome to the forum. I will offer this. What size is the cable going to the battery and starter. Often they are replaced with a twelve volt version that will slow your starter as it cannot get enough current. Also bad connections, weak battery will have that affect. So it all needs to be checked. Just remember that in these are old beasts good connections are key for lights etc. Also they will not spin over like a twelve volt car regardless so keep that in mind but hard starting is not an issue normally.  

 

Here  is a wiring diagram for your car for your use. A lot of info available just keep searching. 

http://p15-d24.com/files/file/49-vehicle-wiring-schematics-covering-1946-to-54/

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Mark, im in southern maine,

yes, the car is nice, all original and the owner was very accommodating..price wise and in all aspect of the deal. had the original title from 1950 as well.

he wanted it to be taken care of, not rodded or chopped up for parts, neither are my intention.

 

Alshere/john

Also, when i say hard starting, i mean it cranks slowly, but it will start after 6 or 7 cranks this is my 1st 6V so maybe i just dont know what its supposed to act like...

 

 

thanks for the info, ill do some more investigation

 

 

Aside: I found the original owners manual on the inside of the door when i took the door panel off to try and fix the window crank. it was laying on the bottom. not good shape, but its being saved.

 
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I wouldn't worry about how the car starts if it starts every time. I had one that always started as I took my finger off the starter button. I think the spark got stronger at that instant because the draw for the starter ended and the sparkplugs got all the available spark.

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Hello and welcome.  Your picture didn;t show the battery but the coil is correct and the battery should be grounded positive.  6V needs lots of amperage to operate, and a lot of 6V cars got changed over to the thin 12V style battery cables,  Your primary cables, the ones from the bat to the solenoid and the solenoid to the starter should be minimum 1 gauge.  Make sure all your grounds age good clean and tight.  Like a nice thick Fountain pen, not a whimpy #2 pencil.  Are you using the choke when you try to start it???  Procedure for cold start, pull choke knob out full, press gas pedal to floor to set high idle linkage, release gas pedal, and then give it about 1/3 pedal towards the floor,  then engage starter.  when it starts push in the choke knob enough to achieve a smooth idle, when temp starts to build push choke all the way in, floor gas pedal quickly to release high idle linkage. 

 

Looks like you could use a new set of spark plugs also.  make sure you blow the crud out of the depressions and add some penetrating oil before you try to loosen them.  Most folks here run AC 44/45 or their autolite equivalents 

 

Turn the key to the on position, do not engage the starter, and note the amp gauge, switch on the head lamps, which way does the needle move?

 

Looks like a ice solid car to start with. Hope you get it running driving and stopping, and are able to enjoy it before the snow flies.  Nice to have another north easterner on board.

Edited by greg g
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Thanks for all the info.

Is it odd that the car will start and all lights work if the battery is hooked up opposite?

At any rate, i will be ordering a pair of rear brake shoes from Bernbaum and finish that.

I have decided that Im going to have it repainted as well now that the interior and seats are all out and I have begun to take off the trim.

 

I'm leaning toward Plymouth Creme, anyone have one?

 

 

 

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Welcome, and that's a really nice looking car! I'm a newbie too and already I've been blown away by the knowledge and level of help the members on this site are willing to share. 

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Not much electrical (notice I did not say electronic) on a car cares much about which way electricity flows.  The only thing that might need to be addressed is to re flash the generator.  Starter don't care, lights don't care, coil might start to care under heavy load but will still make spark. Points might wear funny but will still do the job.

 

There were a couple Ivory paints, not so sure cream was in the original color chart, but if you like it go for it.  Charlotte Ivory was the Plymouth name

DAL 80001 DQE was the number.

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Congrats on the purchase and welcome.

 

I like the car's original color, but green is a favorite of mine to begin with and it's you who has to be happy with your car.  ;)

 

Enjoy the project, and the ride.

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At any rate, i will be ordering a pair of rear brake shoes from Bernbaum and finish that.

 

Many folks have been pleased with the brake shoe service at Tennessee Brake and Clutch. Seems they are fast and reasonable.

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Shel,

Duly noted. I will take a look at that....

 

Stripped the trim off the car today, everything came off with little fuss.

 

I did a good search, but I couldn't find anything re: removing headliner top bows. How is it done?

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D24.  P15 should be about the same.

 

 

Mark the bows as you take them out to install in same location.

 

I believe they have #'s or markings near the end on each, but may be hard to see.

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Edited by shel_bizzy_48
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Thanks for all the info.

Is it odd that the car will start and all lights work if the battery is hooked up opposite?

At any rate, i will be ordering a pair of rear brake shoes from Bernbaum and finish that.

I have decided that Im going to have it repainted as well now that the interior and seats are all out and I have begun to take off the trim.

 

I'm leaning toward Plymouth Creme, anyone have one?

Don't worry about it cranking over slowly and turning over 5 or 6 times before starting. All 6 volt cars turn over very slowly. If you are used to 12 volt cars,a strong 6 volt battery turns these old engines like the battery is almost dead. It's the nature of the beast.

 

As for slow starting,after you drain the gas and replace all the rubber gas hoses with modern gas hoses that ethanol doesn't rot and cause you car to set fire,put fresh gas in it,and tune it up. By the time you have driven it a couple of hundred miles it will be starting by the time it turns over once.

 

It looks to me from the other thread that you have VERY nice original upholstery over the aftermarket 50's seat covers. You have no idea how jealous that mades me.

 

As for the color,with a car that original,I'd paint it back the original color if it were mine.  Actually,if that car were mine it looks so nice now that I would concentrate spending my  money on making it mechanically reliable and then drive and enjoy it just the way it is for  a while. New tires,brakes,shocks,brake lines,brake hoses,new master cylinder,wheel cylinders,brake shoes,shocks,replacing any and all worn suspension parts,and making sure there are no exhaust leaks are where I would focus my time and money right now.

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Not much electrical (notice I did not say electronic) on a car cares much about which way electricity flows.  The only thing that might need to be addressed is to re flash the generator.  Starter don't care, lights don't care, coil might start to care under heavy load but will still make spark. Points might wear funny but will still do the job.

 

There were a couple Ivory paints, not so sure cream was in the original color chart, but if you like it go for it.  Charlotte Ivory was the Plymouth name

DAL 80001 DQE was the number.

BTW,what Greg means by flash the generator is to polarize it. Buy a Motors Manual that covers 40's cars to teach you the basic mechanics of them,and it will tell you how to polorize your charging system. This is something that isn't done on alternators but is necessary on generators.

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thanks for the info knuckleharley,

I will look into the rubber gas hoses. i'm replacing the brake shoes.

 

The upholstery on the seats is not that good, its very much missing. I was hoping it was all going to be there, but upon removal of the covers, it was pooched. And my wife isn't going to ride around in the car the way it is.

Mechanically the car is pretty well in order, I would say. the car has been well maintained.

also, the reason Im so hot and heavy to get it painted is that it is stuck at my dads house for the next few weeks, he paints cars, and im just buying the paint, so Im striking while the iron is hot! new tires are certainly on the list..

thanks for all the info everyone, this forum is VERY good and pleasant to be involved with.

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...also, the reason Im so hot and heavy to get it painted is that it is stuck at my dads house for the next few weeks, he paints cars, and im just buying the paint, so Im striking while the iron is hot!

Good thinking.

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