Ammeter Wiring For A 6 V Positive Ground Alternator

[Jeff Balazs]

Hi All;

I am at the stage where I am preparing to wire my truck. Since it will be my daily driver I have made some mods which I believe will enhance the driving and reliability aspects of this truck. I have added an electric cooling fan, a full time vane type electric fuel pump and upgraded/additional clearance & running lights. To keep things relatively simple everything I have added is 6 volt.

 

Most of my driving will be back and forth to the shop and running errands. Short duration 10 to 15 minute drives in moderate to heavy traffic.......so stop and go with lots of idling. I think that because of this installing a alternator is probably a pretty good idea. There is a outfit called Quality Power that offers a 6 volt, 60A  positive ground alternator based on a GM single wire unit for $135. They also offer a nice adaptor bracket that makes mounting the alternator very straightforward. I think that this is a pretty good price.

 

The only real concern I have with this mod is how best to wire in and retain the original ammeter to monitor the charging system?...if that is even possible?....and will the instrument hold up with the increased output?

 

Thanks in advance for your input. As always your experiances are invaluable.

Jeff

[greg g]

Most alts (at least 12v) are capable of putting out 60+ amps and most amp gauges peg at 45.  So if you get to a point where your bat is really low or your enhanced lighting fans etc are all on at the same time, and the alt is pumping out max amps, you might possibly damage the amp gauge by having it in the pegged position. 

 

I wired a GM 3 wire alt into my Studebaker truck project and have it running through the original amp gauge.  It pegs on startup but then drops to whatever is needed by the battery, and other running needs.  I believe I wired it from the Batt side of the solenoid through the ammeter to the power in terminal on the ignition switch, I can double check it for you if needed.  I am also running a volt gauge and a indicator light.  The indicator light provides two functions, indicatig that the alt is charging, and it provides resistance like a diode to prevent back flow of juice to the alt with ign off.

[JBNeal]

I'd be a li'l nervous about putting more amperage thru the gauge than what it's rated for on a regular basis.  I recall reading somewhar that with the amp gauge connected in series with the charging circuit, that amp gauge failure or malfunction can adversely affect battery charging.  I haven't looked too much into it, but wiring the amp gauge in parallel seems like it might help, but I don't know how accurate the gauge reading would be.  I wonder if anyone has tried some sort of Hall-effect amp gauge or how accurate it would be...

[Jeff Balazs]

Hi Guys;

You have touched upon some of the concerns I have about the wiring for this.

I'd almost rather do without an ammeter than to "create" a possible failure point somewhere down the road by taking a chance with this wiring. These alternators are pretty bulletproof. They are supposed to put out around 40A at idle and should keep the battery well charged as a result. I really like properly working gauges......but I will take a good runner over gauges anyday.

 

Jeff

[B1B Keven]

Jeff,

The amp meter will be fine if you're not running everything at the same time.

It's rated for 50 and, I bet, it will handle a bit more.

[Jeff Balazs]

Keven;

So you are saying that I should be able to retain this instrument. I doubt very much if the actual draw on the system would exceed 40A but if it did what could happen? Am I worrying about an unlikely failure here? My whole goal here is to make certain I don't create any potential weak points.

 

Jeff

[B1B Keven]

Yes, it will work.

Not sure what would happen if you ran more than 50 amps through it for an extended period

of time.

There are no small windings to burn up (like a fuel gauge).

 

Keven

[Jeff Balazs]

Ok sounds like it should be OK. They offer a small wiring harness to allow for the addition of an indicator light on the dash. It is fed off a switched terminal on the ignition switch. Maybe this is the best way to go to cover all the bases.

 

Jeff

[MBF]

If you're doing any rewiring you should check to make sure that you're using the proper guage wire for a 6 volt system due to the heavier amp draw of the lower voltage system.    The amp draw will be twice that of a comparable 12 volt system.  Mike

[Jeff Balazs]

Hi Mike;

I need to wire the entire truck. I just have some temporary wiring in now to run and move it around.

If you know of a good guideline for the appropriate wire sizes I sure would like to see it.

 

Jeff

[B1B Keven]

Jeff,

This is what I'm using.

http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/wiring_harness/wiring.htm

 

Wire:

http://enginebarn.myshopify.com/

 

Keven

[Jeff Balazs]

Thanks Keven;

Since I have added a few items I am going to have take this info and build upon it.

Hopefully I will be able to pick up some of the wiring components like bullet connectors at the Long Beach Swap meet this Sunday. All this little stuff seems to take as much or more effort than some of the bigger things. I will be glad when this aspect of the build is complete.

 

Jeff

[B1B Keven]

You're welcome.

Any bullet connector will work. I remove the plastic piece and cover with heat shrink.

[52b3b Joe]

We have a quality power alt. on our DeSoto. It works fine, it hasn't hurt our 35 amp gauge. With its internal regulator, the gauge stays right near 0 except right after starting.

[Jeff Balazs]

Thanks Joe;

That is good to know. Did you add a charge indicator light? or are you running it was originally wired?

 

Thanks Jeff

[52b3b Joe]

Not, we did not add a light, we just by passed the regulator but kept it for looks. You have to use a heavier gauge wire when you install it. It was simple and took an afternoon. Give them a call, they are help full.

[Jeff Balazs]

Thanks very much for getting back on this Joe. I will call them before installing this.

 

Jeff

[Plymouthy Adams]

even though it is a wire and will work as such, you have to tickle the output with a higher RPM...one still needs to connect the sense line to gain full effect of the alternator's ability to balance the charging rate dependent upon demand (load of accessories) effectively the proper connection is still a three wire alternator.  One can jumper the unit to charge at low rpm..but again...proper wiring would give you longer life, balanced current supply and proper charge rate return to the battery.

[Robert Thornton]

just got a 6 volt positive ground  alternator one wire hookup . do I run wire to top of starter or positive side of battery . and how to run amp meter. if anyone has picks or drawings would be nice.    thanks rt

[Jeff Balazs]

Robert;

You can just run the wire from the alternator directly to the terminal on the ammeter that used to be fed by the old voltage regulator. Some people just leave the reguator in place and use it as a terminal block. Either way will work.

 

You are going to love this item. No worry staying charged up.

 

Jeff

[Robert Thornton]

Thanks  Jeff just what I needed

[Jeff Balazs]

Glad I could be of help.

[Thomba48]

On 7.10.2014 at 3:46 PM, Jeff Balazs said:

Robert;

You can just run the wire from the alternator directly to the terminal on the ammeter that used to be fed by the old voltage regulator. Some people just leave the reguator in place and use it as a terminal block. Either way will work.

 

You are going to love this item. No worry staying charged up.

 

Jeff

Hi Jeff,

just to be on the safe side.

I am also planning to install a positive ground alternator in my 6 volt 1949 Plymouth. From what I have gathered running it through the amp should work. That is fine.
Now I would just like to confirm the wiring approach. In the end the alternator needs to hooked up with the battery. I have read he following recommendation:

One fat arm wire obviously will have to go the battery. Here I was hoping to use the original wire that went from the generator to the battery. Would that work?
The thin wires leading to the existing regulator (I want to keep it for stock reasons) will simply be set inactive (taping them or whatever).
The other fat arm wire that originally went to the regulator I would simply redirect to the battery to keep the charging currents path the same as if it still had a generator going to the amp meter.
And ideally I would ground the alternator directly to the engine itself.

Yourse does sound different so I believe. Can you help me please on that front? 

 

thanks/ thom

 

By the way - a nice surname. It is actually my fathers first name :-)
 

[Jeff Balazs]

Thom;

There are a couple of ways this can be wired. 1) You can leave the old regulator in place and just use it as a terminal block. Run a single #8 wire from the alternator to the battery terminal on the regulator.

Or 2) You can just run a single #8 wire directly to the battery terminal on the starter.

I use the second method and have had zero issues with this arrangement even with a lot of accessories.

Hth, Jeff.

[Thomba48]

Thanks