Something’s not right

[HanksB3B]

The other day I drove my truck about a half mile, parked and was about to turn the engine off and it stalled before I got to turn the key (it never does that). I went about my business and decided rather than run another errand I would be best off to park my truck at home and take my car.

The following day I started it, got it warm and the truck would run at a high idle, but with the hand throttle pushed in, ran very rough and eventually would stall.

Since my trucks rebuild I doubt I have 1,000 miles on the engine. The only change has been I recently installed a different voltage regulator. The reason I installed it was that although the old regulator is o.k. it only regulates the charge to about 6.5 volts. Because I added one taillight, a turn signal switch and a Radio, I feel like the truck needs around 7.2 volts or something like that.

I want to come up with a plan starting with the simplest of things to check out/fix. My gut feeling is gas starvation but until advised otherwise here’s what I plan on doing:

1. Checking the oil to see if it's mixed with water.

2. Swap the new voltage regulator out and install the old one just to get back to a level playing field (or what the truck had before it started running badly).

a) Try disconnecting the VR to see what happens.

3.Start the truck then remove the oil bath air filter, and see that gas is flowing normally (I’ll be careful)

4.Remove the spark plugs (clean and re-gap them) to see if they are all that brownish clean burn look and not fouled.

5.Take a look at the points and maybe use a point file just in case.

a) Electrical contacts in the regulator & distributor need to be clean.

6.Check the Fuel Pump Pressure:

a. I need some help here as I don’t have a pressure gauge, but isn’t there some way of telling by pointing the loose end of the gas line into a

bucket and turning the engine over to see how it’s pumping? Not sure about this one.

b. My fuel tank was flushed and re-coated but I never installed the stone element fuel filter that goes before the carburator (am I paying the

price now?)

7. Check for vacuum Leaks (intake manifold to head, carb to intake, vacuum hose, throttle shaft).

8. Check carb for varnish build up also add fuel stabilizer to fresh 87 octane tank.

I’ll stop about here and wait for any comments/suggestions before doing anything. Thank you for helping.

Hank

*added items from members suggestions shown in red

Edited December 1, 2012 by HanksB3B

[Jeff Balazs]

Hank;

Sure sounds like a fuel problem to me. I am curious why you left out that filter? It is your first line of defense. It is not uncommon for fuel to have crud and water in it. Try pumping some into a clear glass jar and see if you have a slug of water in it.

I doubt the voltage regulator swap has anything to do with this. Pop the distributor cap and inspect for corrosion or moisture there as that is a somewhat common issue. WD40 or similar will take care of it.

Jeff

[52b3b Joe]

I would look at the voltage regulator, mine is acting up and it is causing my truck to run rough and stall. I'd start there. With it connected, it runs horrible, then as soon as i disconnect it, it picks up and runs great.

Edited December 1, 2012 by 52b3b218

[HanksB3B]

I'll do both of the above and will report. I will do the VR first though Jeff as I have some confirmation from 52b3b218 that it's a possibility. Kind of like restoring your computer to "Last Known Good Configuration" 1951 style.

We'll see...Thanks,

Hank:)

[JBNeal]

I can hear my Grandpa now: "ya got yerself some bad gas"

I've had similar problems, and the thing that seems to have fixed the rough running/stalling problem for the ol' beasts (and lawn tractors too) when they don't get driven everyday is to have fuel stabilizer mixed with fresh 87 octane gasoline in the tank and run through the carburetor. From what I can gather, a li'l varnish will gum up the innards of the carb (check balls & passages, etc.) and the required fuel flow through the carb will be inadequate.

Also, the electrical contacts in the regulator & distributor need to be clean. If a small layer of oxidation forms on these contacts, the resistance goes sky high, resulting in significant decreases in available voltage available for charging and/or ignition. This oxidation has to be carefully removed, either with emery cloth or small file, I recall seeing this procedure outlined in an older Chilton manual I found at the library.

[Jeff Balazs]

Hank;

It certainly can't hurt to try disconnecting the VR to see what happens. I suppose it could be making a bad contact and cause some sort of ignition problem. I wouldn't think this happens all that often.

Jeff

[Dave72dt]

Check for vacuum leaks as well. Intake manifold to head, carb to intake, vavuum hose, throttle shaft.

[Desotodav]

I had a similar problem with my truck not long ago Hank and found that I had a problem with the points (almost no gap). The truck would stall as soon as I slowed down for a red traffic light.

I think that you have plenty of well thought out areas to eliminate on your list. Good luck, and be sure to let us all know the outcome.

Desotodav

[HanksB3B]

Thanks Dav, Well I'm sure hoping that it's just a little thing and no big deal.

Hank

[Scruffy49]

Every time one of my Dodge engines acts like that it is a points problem. Too little gap or too much gap. It happens constantly with my 318 powered 69 D100, every other running of the 68 413-3 powered motor home, and the last 2 times I ran my L6s. Modern points are, in a nut shell, pretty low quality.

[Fernando Mendes]

.....parked and was about to turn the engine off and it stalled before I got to turn the key (it never does that)

My opinion is ignition switch(short).

[HanksB3B]

Every time one of my Dodge engines acts like that it is a points problem. Too little gap or too much gap. It happens constantly with my 318 powered 69 D100, every other running of the 68 413-3 powered motor home, and the last 2 times I ran my L6s. Modern points are, in a nut shell, pretty low quality.

I was rooting for Granpa Tex "Yer got yerself some bad gas" but here what I hope is "End of Story". (to follow, gotta do some elf stuff argh..for the wifey)

1. Checked the oil to see if it's was mixed with water.

a. It was clean, just above the low mark so I added 1/2 quart.

2. Checked all wires on the voltage regulator. Oddly the field wire was loose. (me?)

3. Removed each spark plug (all 6 were clean and uniform in burn color)

a. They were snug but a tiny bit on the loose side.

b. I gapped them all to .035 (a few were more like .025) and wiped them wipe a cloth.

c. I reinstalled them a bit tighter (what I call “wrist” tight)

4. Removed the distributor cap and checked the points.

a. Put a .020 feeler gauge between the points (in closed position) and by touch it felt like the points had a cone shaped scratchy high point. I used some 400 grit paper and got them feeling smoother, then with the ignition key in the off position, bumped the starter lever till the points were open. They were in tolerance.

5. Checked all wires on the distributor cap to make sure they were making contact.

a. The coil wire went in a little further than it had been.

6. Started the truck and adjusted the hand throttle so that the truck would not stall.

7. Removed the oil bath air filter, and checked that visually there was enough fuel pressure and that gas was flowing properly when I increased the throttle.

a. At first revving the engine caused it to stumble. I sprayed some WD-40 into the carb while it was running and things seemed to get better.

8. With the idle set to about 700-1000rpm I went for a test drive every thing seemed fine.

9. I plan on driving to AutoZone or Pep Boys. I want to add something to the gas to clean the carb as I drive, then get the truck back to it’s normal idle of about 500rpm. I'm not really an "additive" guy so does anyone have some suggestions as to what is a good product to clean the carb while driving?

10. The regulator is charging at 7.5 volts so I’m happy about that.

Preliminary Conclusion: It was a combination of small stuff.

Thanks for the help,

Hank

Edited December 4, 2012 by HanksB3B

[Fernando Mendes]

75% are electrical problems.

25% are fuel problems.

[Jeff Balazs]

Hank;

What did the problem end up being?

Jeff

[pflaming]

75% are electrical problems. 25% are fuel problems. Of the 75% which are the most common?

[Frank Elder]

I was rooting for Granpa Tex "Yer got yerself some bad gas" but here what I hope is "End of Story". (to follow, gotta do some elf stuff argh..for the wifey)

1. Checked the oil to see if it's was mixed with water.

a. It was clean, just above the low mark so I added 1/2 quart.

2. Checked all wires on the voltage regulator. Oddly the field wire was loose. (me?)

3. Removed each spark plug (all 6 were clean and uniform in burn color)

a. They were snug but a tiny bit on the loose side.

b. I gapped them all to .035 (a few were more like .025) and wiped them wipe a cloth.

c. I reinstalled them a bit tighter (what I call “wrist” tight)

4. Removed the distributor cap and checked the points.

a. Put a .020 feeler gauge between the points (in closed position) and by touch it felt like the points had a cone shaped scratchy high point. I used some 400 grit paper and got them feeling smoother, then with the ignition key in the off position, bumped the starter lever till the points were open. They were in tolerance.

5. Checked all wires on the distributor cap to make sure they were making contact.

a. The coil wire went in a little further than it had been.

6. Started the truck and adjusted the hand throttle so that the truck would not stall.

7. Removed the oil bath air filter, and checked that visually there was enough fuel pressure and that gas was flowing properly when I increased the throttle.

a. At first revving the engine caused it to stumble. I sprayed some WD-40 into the carb while it was running and things seemed to get better.

8. With the idle set to about 700-1000rpm I went for a test drive every thing seemed fine.

9. I plan on driving to AutoZone or Pep Boys. I want to add something to the gas to clean the carb as I drive, then get the truck back to it’s normal idle of about 500rpm. I'm not really an "additive" guy so does anyone have some suggestions as to what is a good product to clean the carb while driving?

10. The regulator is charging at 7.5 volts so I’m happy about that.

Preliminary Conclusion: It was a combination of small stuff.

Thanks for the help,

Hank

If you try and run the truck after each small fix......you would actually learn how you fixed it, don't get me wrong I'm happy for you, but it's harder to learn what the problem was when you use the shotgun method:eek::D

[Guest bewillie]

#4 You have to set the gap with the points open. Sounds as though you are trying with them closed.

[JBNeal]

75% are electrical problems. 25% are fuel problems. Of the 75% which are the most common?

On older vehicles, ground continuity faults are very common on malfunctioning electrical circuits. Corrosion at ground circuit terminals increases circuit resistance, reducing available voltage available for the circuit to operate correctly. Corrosion within the stranded copper conductors also boosts resistance. When operating on 6V, any boost in resistance is noticeable. For example, the headlights on the '48 stopped working the other day. I jiggled the wires at the dimmer switch, and they immediately came back on. Dielectric grease on clean terminals helps reduce the chance for any of this terminal oxidation to occur.

[HanksB3B]

Thanks Guys,

All good suggestions. One of the things I like about members of this forum is that we are a mature bunch of guys. I don't know if you frequent other forums but recently I had a question about one of my other cars. It was a simple question regarding gas mileage and use of a product call SeaFoam (which I highly endorse as a fuel tank additive even though I'm not an additive type guy). I got so much hostility because I didn't do "a search". Of course I know the value of doing a search, but in this particular forum a search only yielded more threads than you'd want to read about a simple topic and you'd end up reading post #67 in some thread where someone went OT and said "I don't let fat chicks ride in my car because I get bad gas mileage. I got flamed by a bunch of losers. I had to laugh it off, but some of the stuff was really offensive.

I like FRANKIE47's theory, but I can only offer a best guess that the feeler gauge felt like a needle was digging into it. I used 400 grit wetordry paper and checked that the gap was .020". The other thing I highly suspect was the carb seemed sluggishly gummy and a few shots of WD40 followed by SeaFoam spray while the engine was running and the fuel tank additive got the truck running just perfect.

Hank

[Jeff Balazs]

Hank;

Hey you are actually using your truck for hauling! Good deal.

In my previous career as a fuel system engineer I had a birds eye view of the fuel supply for Southern California. As far as the fuel topic goes there are several factors that come into play.

A) In our local Chevron clearly had the best additive package in their fuel.

I believe that this is still true but I have not seen lab reports or tear down examinations for about 15 years.

98% of all contaminants including the most prevalent...water are introduced at the gas stations. Reason....leaking or dirty fuel tanks, poorly located delivery hookups and almost no preventative maintenance.

C) The idea that all the fuel you buy is carefully filtered is a myth. Due to the various process and handling steps that your fuel goes through to get to you and the high demand in our area........nothing could be farther than the truth. For the most part the fuel producers rely on high volume basket strainers and such for filtration. And they don't get changed all that often.

The only quality filtration that we as consumers can control takes place right in our vehicles.

D) A truly useful additive like Sahara Gas Treatment is not a bad thing to have on hand when you do get a slug of water in your tank.

E) Much of the "dirt" in our carbs etc....can be traced back to our air supply.

The LA Basin has a huge amount of airborne particulates. It is a well known fact with plenty of documentation. And much of this matter is highly abrasive and /or toxic. When your truck is running you are sucking huge volumes of this into the engine compartment....through the air filter and pumping out the tailpipe. Some of the stuff clings to any oily or damp surface like your carb. Some gets trapped in the air filter and that which makes it through acts like an abrasive in your engine.

Jeff

[HanksB3B]

Hank;

Hey you are actually using your truck for hauling! Good deal.

Jeff, I knew you'd say that! I do use my truck for hauling but it always has a truckers blanket and tie-downs. I wish I had the foresight to install some sort of recessed hardware into the wood bed itself as I'm sure you have already done. (I'd like to see some pictures of your bed, or if you have already posted, a link)

When I bought my truck in 1979 in it's former life as a roofing truck complete with an overhead rack that trashed the stake pockets, the running boards were cut short. Makeshift tool boxes were installed forward and aft of the wheel, the rear fenders thrown out and sheet metal between the toolboxes formed rear fenders. (my truck ran between 1979-1985 with onlt a plywood platform with a bolted down 2x4 from which hung a pair of Yosemite Sam mud flaps) Drilling and bolting the tool boxes (and carrying a lot of weight) not to mention that cutting the lower angle of the bed side itself (I guess to clear the axle(above), along with overloading the truck and toolboxes in general, rendered my bed a borderline candidate for restoration.

The stake pockets were the only part worth saving and so they were Fedex'd to Bruce Horkey in Windom Minnesota. Once the crate arrived there was still a lot of work left to do.

Hank

Edited December 16, 2012 by HanksB3B

[Jeff Balazs]

Hank;

Well I gotta tease you...... As you know I really like the "work truck" look.

I know.....I am probably the only person (well maybe not) who cringes when they see old trucks done up like a cream puff. To me it is just wrong........imagine what the truck thinks? Now see what you are describing as the condition in which you obtained your truck .....was the essence of the trucks real work life. That was cool....ugly maybe.....but real.

Jeff

[HanksB3B]

Hank, What you are describing as the condition in which you obtained your truck .....was the essence of the trucks real work life. That was cool....ugly maybe.....but real.Jeff

Well o.k. then I'll drive my junky old truck and park it in front of your house then..yaa that's what I'll do...

(not my truck and I do apologize to the owner for calling it junky...looks like it's all there and that's really what counts)

Hank

[Jeff Balazs]

Well o.k. then I'll drive my junky old truck and park it in front of your house then..yaa that's what I'll do...

(not my truck and I do apologize to the owner for calling it junky...looks like it's all there and that's really what counts)

Hank

Does it have the fresh air option?

If you can drive it here.......you are welcome to park it here but it doesn't look as though it has done any work lately.

Jeff

[TheMoose]

Does it have the fresh air option?

If you can drive it here.......you are welcome to park it here but it doesn't look as though it has done any work lately.

Jeff

He'd also have to drive to Oklahoma to get it!

That's a pic of my 51 parts truck!