My Offy Intake & Reds Headers Transplant

[Mark D]

As many of you witnessed from my posts, last winter I had my first true taste of mechanics frustration when my head gasket failed and its subsequent "simple" replacement was fouled when I broke a head bolt. It was the first time that I really ever went that far with my wrenches on an engine, but it was also a challenge that gave me quite a bit of confidence that I could go further with my limited skills and the guidance from so many members of this forum. So I figured I would start this thread and post from time to time to show my progress, and hpoefully keep myself out of trouble. Any suggestions are gladly accepted as I won't likely start this project until the snow flies in a few more weeks and the car is off the road for the winter.

Originality means a lot to me, but after recently driving a couple cars that have had minor work done to them, and also having developed a little more respect for the vintage hop-up stuff that guys did to these flatties, I've decided that I am going to undertake the replacement of my intake and headers. While I am at it I want to open up the valve galleys and check on a persistant tap that I believe could be eliminated with a slight turn of the tappet wrench.

I've read literally hundreds of entries in threads on this forum and the HAMB, studied photographs from the past and present, drooled over Moose___'s awesome A power plant, and most recently grilled Greg G in his garage while leaning over the fender of his coupe. Fast forward 18 months to last week when I went and ordered most of the parts I will need to get my job done.

Here's what I've bought so far;

1. A pair of fabricated steel headers from RedsHeaders.com, Kit includes headers, exit flanges, exit gaskets and 4 new studs,
   
2. An offenhauser intake from RedsHeaders.com,
   
3. An offenhasuer Linkage kit from RedsHeaders.com,
   
4. A complete intake and exhaust gasket set from RedsHeaders.com,
   
5. A valve cover gasket set from AMS Obsolete (mmpar.com)
   
6. A set of cast aluminum valve covers from VintageSpeed.com
   
7. A water heat plate from Tom Langdons stoveboltengineco.com, and lastly,
   
8. A set of phenolic carb spacers from Tom Langdon as well.
   

What I still need to get my hands on;

1. A decent Carter Carb core to rebuild. (anyone got a spare?)
   
2. A carb rebuild "zip" kit.
   
3. I am toying with the idea of adding a fuel block to the firewall.
   
4. I need to get some Fuel line stock and fittings. I don't own a double flare tool, but will borrow that from the shop at work.
   
5. My Air cleaner option is still up in the "air". I like the single over double look that Greg G has and the bird cages look cool tool. Unrestricted air flow seems to be the point, so I am leaning toward something with a lot of surface area. Happily accepting thoughts on this as well.
   

Here's what arrived in the mail today.

Note: After seeing the raw state of the steel headers I think I am going to take them down to the powder coater in the next town and have them done in black.

Pretty psyched to start this little upgrade, bu I've got one last problem... what to tell the wife when the credit card bill hits the mailbox...

[Mike Petersen]

Give her the credit card and send her shopping. All is even then.

[thrashingcows]

Powder coating will heat and discolor. You would need a good high temp jet coating. But personally I'd scuff them up and hit them with some flat plack BBQ paint. I've done this a few times and the results were better then expected. Or go with the Eastwoods high temp manifold paint.

As for air cleaners...I like the look of dual oil bath air cleaners. But I'd swap them over to the paper elemnts for better filtration.

[1941Rick]

I took my Reds Headers and painted them with VHT header paint.....took the car for a 2200 mile trip and the paint did not peel or discolor. When the manifolds are all in place you have to look hard to see the headers. Not like they pop out at you.....

[greg g]

Mark when you get your goodies opened up I might suggest you bolt everything to a piece of plywood tham would mimic the cylinder block. That way you can check your fit, and mock up the heater plate and the phenolic blocks and scope out how the linkage will work out and line up. The fuel block on the fire wall or inner fender is probably a good thing, and for some reason I have begun to like the look of header wrap. It does look kind of industrial and keeps some of the heat out of the under hood area.

This project will test your skills, not necessarily mechanical skills but those of maintaining domestic tranquility. Perhaps a cot and sleeping bag in the garage might also be in your future.............

[1940plymouth]

Mark, good luck and keep us posted, sounds real interesting

[Young Ed]

Mark what carb # due to currently have to match to? Also what is a rebuild "zip" kit? I get rebuild kits at napa. Also I have a bunch of carbs but I'm not sure any would be good enough with just a simple rebuild.

[Don Coatney]

Pictured below is another air cleaner option. Forum member Tim Serbus fabbed these up.

I bought cleanable air filters that are also flexable. They should last a lifetime. I have double stacked them for better breathing.

For header paint I used the pictured high temp paint. After several years and several thousand miles it still looks acceptable.

Pictured is how I did my fuel line. Make sure you route the line well ahead of the exhaust system. I have never had any heat related fuel issues with this setup.

[Mark D]

Give her the credit card and send her shopping. All is even then.

I might have married the only woman in the northeast that hates to shop.... and I consider myself lucky.

[Mark D]

Mark what carb # due to currently have to match to? Also what is a rebuild "zip" kit? I get rebuild kits at napa. Also I have a bunch of carbs but I'm not sure any would be good enough with just a simple rebuild.

My current carb is made up of a 2681s (alleged Dodge truck carb) and a newer D6G1 top which corrected a leak I had. I beleive I am looking for either a D6G2 (although choke and high idle are not needed) or a D6H2. Open to suggestions on this as I still have limited knowledge on these.

Here's an image of D6G2

Here's an image of a D6H2

[Mark D]

Thanks for these Don, I like the color on your headers. Will track that paint down over the weekend. And thanks to Rick and Thrash for the suggestion, definitely a project worthy of my skillset and wallet. One question though, did you have to pre-bake these, or was it a paint a cook 'em on the car install?

Tim's air cleaner arrangement is certainly creative. Not sure my final choice will go that far. I do like the idea of period correct, so I'm leaning toward a pair of chevy 216 oil bath cleaners if I can score a pair at a reasonable price. Everything I see on ebay at the moment is $100 each, but Ive got a few months to keep looking.

And thats good advice with the fuel line, I bet it also benefits from some residual fan cooling.

Pictured below is another air cleaner option. Forum member Tim Serbus fabbed these up.

I bought cleanable air filters that are also flexable. They should last a lifetime. I have double stacked them for better breathing.

For header paint I used the pictured high temp paint. After several years and several thousand miles it still looks acceptable.

Make sure you route the line well ahead of the exhaust system. I have never had any heat related fuel issues with this setup.

[hkestes41]

I purchased this KBS http://www.kbs-coatings.com/ kit below from a vendor at a swap meet and must say that it is the best engine / high temp paint I have ever used. I have had the paint on for close to 2 years and both the engine and headers look as good as the day I painted them. No chipping or discoloration in several thousand miles of operation including 2 round trips of over 800 miles each.

The kit came with a cleaner/degreaser, a rust remover/inhibitor, thinner and paint. I also bought a pint of their Xtreme Temp paint in Cast Iron Gray. Followed their instruction on the cleaning / prep then applied everything with a brush.

If and when I need to paint another engine I will be using this product again.

[BobT-47P15]

Your engine does look good Kirk.

Often a person will get a good result if they follow the

manufacturer's instructions.

[Don Coatney]

Thanks for these Don, I like the color on your headers. Will track that paint down over the weekend. And thanks to Rick and Thrash for the suggestion, definitely a project worthy of my skillset and wallet. One question though, did you have to pre-bake these, or was it a paint a cook 'em on the car install?

Tim's air cleaner arrangement is certainly creative. Not sure my final choice will go that far. I do like the idea of period correct, so I'm leaning toward a pair of chevy 216 oil bath cleaners if I can score a pair at a reasonable price. Everything I see on ebay at the moment is $100 each, but Ive got a few months to keep looking.

And thats good advice with the fuel line, I bet it also benefits from some residual fan cooling.

It was a slow cure on my manifold paint. I painted them several months before I ran my engine.

I would have used a pair of original oil bath fillters but my carb spacing (7.5 inches if I recall) would not allow it.

[DCurrent]

I have had good luck with spraying manifolds with a coat of epoxy and then topcoating with whatever high temp paint of choice. A coat of epoxy also helps with adhesion over rusty headers. I know of a set I sprayed gotta be 10 years ago and still looks great with no rust. It doesn't see everyday use though.

Darren

[steveplym]

Hey Mark,

I did this same upgrade last winter. Didn't go with headers, but split exhaust manifold from olddaddy. Very happy with it. The only problems I had was getting the exhaust manifold to seal good to the intake manifold. You of course won't have that problem with the headers. I also had to make shift my own linkage. You will discover once you hook up the offy linkage it can be pretty sloppy. I ended up using part of the kit and fabbing up something different for the rest of the linkage. Used a spare original linkage I had and a few pieces from the hardware store to get it fixed.

I bought a two single round air cleaners and doubled up with two filters. Works well and looks good.

The only thing I would have you make sure of is to have a matched set of carbs. That is number wise, such as D6H2. Both my carbs are matching #'s. I had read or heard somewhere that was important, but of course I could be wrong. Others can share their experiences.

I'm always collecting pics of dual carb setups to check out different ideas and experiences.

[oldodge41]

I look forward to the updates. Ruby is getting great care.

[wallytoo]

I might have married the only woman in the northeast that hates to shop.... and I consider myself lucky.

you didn't. and i do, too.

[Mark D]

Love getting home and finding what the mailman delivered.

Looks like I will need to fab a gasket for the heat plate. Also need to grab some stainless bolts to attache this to the offy header. The Chevy carb spacers are a good fit, notches will need to be made for the vacuum hole on the bottom of the carb base, but the phenolic seems to be easily workable. Aluminum valve covers are smaller in size than I had thought, I've just never seen the covers on that are currently on the engine since they are well hidden.

Here's a general question for you gents about the fule line that came with the Offy linkage kit. Is this hand formable or do I need a tubing bender?

Steveplym, your engine looks great. I fooled around a bit last night with the Offy linkage kit and was not impressed. The rod that connects the carb throttle levers has only one connection point, and the two knuckles shipped for use in the actuator rod where too large to fit into the ball-socket. I think I am going to take Gregs advice and work on something made from parts procured at the model RC car store or online.

Did some research last night on the VHT header paint recommended by 1941Rick. Locally obtainable and reasonably priced. I think I may give that a try this weekend.

Any of you gents with a spare engine hanging around willing to make a bolt pattern for me so I can create my plywood mockup? I will mail you some paper for a "grave stone" rubbing.

Edited October 19, 2012 by My48Ruby

[1941Rick]

The linkage drove me crazy ( or crazier ). I fabbed my own. Any more problems and I will put in a Lokar linkage setup.

[Don Coatney]

I made a log manifold to fabricate linkage for these carburetors that I have not yet installed.

[bamfordsgarage]

I made a log manifold to fabricate linkage for these carburetors that I have not yet installed.

I wood suggest you spruce up that log manifold before installation. Just in case somebody is pecan under your carbs fir a closer look.

[wallytoo]

that's a cant, not a log.

[Smokeybear]

You guys crack me up, I almost spit up my Dr. Pepper. LOL.

[greg g]

Mark, you don't need to modify the spacers. The gaskets have a notch (or should have) that provide for the vacuum signal.