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Rust free 40 plymouth sedan


40plyrod

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Last night on chat it was suggested that I should get a metal shear and brake. Where does this MADNESS stop? I have friends who have such so will mark my metal sheet, then have the pieces sheared out. Maybe one of them has a bead roller. . . Friends are money in this hobby. Sure would be nice to trade Dilla bait for shop time!

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Last night on chat it was suggested that I should get a metal shear and brake. Where does this MADNESS stop? I have friends who have such so will mark my metal sheet, then have the pieces sheared out. Maybe one of them has a bead roller. . . Friends are money in this hobby. Sure would be nice to trade Dilla bait for shop time!

Paul,

when you're about ready to do sheet metal work where a bead roller would be nice to have, contact me. I have a Haborfreight setup not being used an no current plans to use it. Maybe use could also borrow my Eastwood Tool brand shrinker and stretcher tools (best used after a 45%-90% bend is in a peice of sheet metal) also not being used!

A friend used them some on his 55 Chev. project, but now idle and his next project that may need them is second on his project list. It's going to be a while before used again!

Cost-- You got to come get them in modesto! :huh:

 

Also, you don't need a shear, just a 4 1/2" grinder with a cut off wheel, full face shield and a couple of minutes to cut a 4 ft. piece of 18 ga. sheet metal!

Repaired both floors etc. on my 2 50 Ply's using those. ;)

 

Stay on the East coast until at least Sat. if you don't want the Shock of coming back to 100-109 degree weather in CA.!! :eek:

 

Best to ya,

 

Doug

Edited by DJ194950
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  • 3 months later...

Been a while since I've been on the forum. life's been busy but I still have managed to get some work done on the car. The firewall is now finished and painted. I also mounted the body back on the frame for the final time. I also rebuilt the gauge cluster I'll be using. I put new mechanisms behind the original faces. I also changed the font on the original faces. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures during the process but here's a few from the afterwards. I guess the most exciting news was that I was finally able to take the first drive it. It's pretty rough ie: no windows etc but still an awesome feeling. The last couple of days we thrashed away pretty hard on it so that my buddy could have a ride in it before he moves to Alberta. A very good day. Here's the first ride

Make sure to listen for the exhaust dragging on the driveway.( the car sits like I like but is too low to drive easily)

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What a thrill to see the 40 running,....and your family involved.  Mine's a ways off at this time but you give me encouragement.  You done good young man  ;)  

 

 

I second that emotion.

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  • 2 months later...

Been awhile since I have updated my progress...block sanding is a very monotonous and slow process, I now know why rat rods are so popular. Luckily I'm in no real rush so I have been limiting my block sanding sessions to an hour or hour and a half at a time as well as taking on another fun project with my 2 girls. Pictures below don't show a lot... one side of car partially blocked and the "new" project. :D  

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Wish I was close ..  I would trade you some blocksanding work for an intake like yours or a MC bracket to weld to frame.

If you were closer I'd take you up on that, my elbows and wrists never ached building the manifold or the mc bracket  :D.

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  • 4 weeks later...

...KnuckleHarley- you can get those clamps in a lot of places now. I've seen them in eastwood's catalogue also in harbour freight. I bought mine from KMS tools here in Canada. You don't have to buy the expensive one the cheap ones work just fine.

Thanks for the reply. I just now noticed it. I've been pretty busy with other stuff the last few months and haven't checked in here much.

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I spent countless hours block sanding my 38. With my poor eyesight, I would have to wait until late evening, with the sun setting, to find missed spots to work on the next round, and I asked help finding blemishes, from anyone that stopped by. It was well worth the extra time to do a good job.

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  • 2 months later...

No updates for a while because, well... block sanding is tedious and boring to look at and I took the family on a little vacation to southern California. During the trip I was even able to meet up with mrwstory. Actually meet up isn't quite right... Bill went way out of his way to show me a good time! In just one day I got a ride in a 32 ford roadster, a trip to the Goodguys Del Mar car show in his Plymouth coupe, introduced to his friends (great bunch of people) fed beer and taken out for dinner. He even arranged for wife and kids to be picked up by another friend from their shopping trip so they could come for dinner too. An awesome day and I'm truly thankful. I came back from the vacation revved up to make some progress so here are the pics. 

First pics is a shift knob I made up to commemorate the trip. It's a token I found at Disneyland and I inset in a common ford truck knob.

Next pics are of woodgraining the dash. It's not an exact restoration of the wood graining originally found on the dash, but I'm happy with it. 1st step is to cover the dash in a truly ugly mustard color base paint. Next is the rubber based ink (dark brown). I get it from the local print shop. I thin the ink with camp stove fuel (naphtha, white gas etc) and use cheese cloth to spread it on the dash. Final step (not seen yet) is to wait 5-6 days for everything to evaporate and the clear coat the dash starting with thin coats. Then wet sand and polish...done.

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. . .  1st step is to cover the dash in a truly ugly mustard color base paint. Next is the rubber based ink (dark brown). I get it from the local print shop. I thin the ink with camp stove fuel (naphtha, white gas etc) and use cheese cloth to spread it on the dash. Final step (not seen yet) is to wait 5-6 days for everything to evaporate and the clear coat the dash starting with thin coats. Then wet sand and polish...done.

 

That is the same technique that I used for my dash and window garnishes which were supposed to be a walnut burl pattern. The nice thing about it is that if you don't like the pattern the ink makes you can wipe it all off and start over. I used "press wash", also available at your local print shop, for my thinner but it smelled about the same as Coleman stove fuel so I'm not surprised that worked for you.

 

http://www.ply33.com/Repair/woodgrain

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