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Posted

I think Tim Adams is onto it here, kind of hard to isolate the noise from the video, but sounds like a bushing/bearing to me. By your description (only when at idle or changing gears) it sounds like the "clutch", as in pilot bushing or throw-out bearing. Could even be as simple as a clutch adjustment.

Posted

Have you checked the crank pulley like I mentioned?.............andyd

Posted

I had a member come by today and listen to the car. We heard the noise. He thought it was a knock. We took off the number one spark plug wire and the noise almost went away. He thought it might be a rod bearing. When I use the stethoscope I cannot find any block noise. I am very confused and do not know what to do. I can pull the pan and look at the bearings but do not really want to do this.

Posted

55 plymouh engine should be a 230 as they changed mid year in 54. check your stroke if you are going to need to order pistons and rods.

Posted (edited)

If it is a rod bearing you would hear it under load more than you would when it idles. I am leaning toward the pilot bushing as others have mentioned as to seems to disappear when the car is under way. I would keep trying to identify the noise before starting a possibly unnecessary engine tear down.

Edited by RobertKB
Posted

That could well indicate a bad rod bearing. Did you try the same with the other cylinders? If it is a knocking, it is likely a rod bearing. If it is a whine or squeak, it will likely be something else. Different noises seem to have been mentioned so it is important to decide the noise, knocking or something else. Good luck with solving the problem.

Posted

OK, so I did more searching and can hear the noise from the oil pump side of the oil pan with the stethoscope. It seems to be coming from between 2 and 3. Now is it a rod bearing or thrust bearing? If rod bearing what type do I order? As far as I can tell the engine has not been modified in any way.

Posted

if any bearing and still going back to noise during idle and shifting..could be a thrust bearing scored..but it would have to be really gone..you could see the play in and out on the crankshaft using a dial indicator and a pry bar behind the damper...also any play in the beaings due to wear and unloading the front two cylinders will changed the torsional load and will lessen any noise for the pilot bearing...you said you did not repalce the bushing..did you lube it good? a quick look at that before tearing down an engine may be in order..

Posted

Sorry guys, I am not being much help. I really wanted to be able to do this but I have limited knowledge. I do thank you for all the ideas and I have tried many of them. Here is a list of what has been done and I know.

1. It is not fan belt noise

2. Took fuel pump off and ran it. It is not fuel pump.

3. Lowered idle and noise goes away.

4. Removed plug wires from cylinders and noise did not change.

5. Heats up over 200 but back of block is cooler than front.

6. When I replaced the clutch I only lightly lubed the pilot.

7. Took it to a friend at a shop today to listen. He said it sounded deep in the engine.

8. He mentioned thrust bearing or main. Did not think it was rod since it no longer makes the sound at low idle.

9. I am really trying to avoid taking the pan off and work on it. I do not feel very qualified. I have a manual but it does not have much detail on replacing thrust or main bearings.

Maybe just drive it until it dies :)

I cannot seem to solve this noise or the overheating. Although it has yet to boil over or act up. I have been measuring the temp with infrared scanner.

Posted

The thrust bearing on the crankshaft wears from the pressure of the clutch being pushed in. The surface on the crank is built up by a welding process and then machined back into specs. If it is indeed the thrust bearing surface on the crankshaft the engine will have to be removed and the crankshaft taken to a shop that specializes in crankshaft repair. You can check the wear on the thrust surfaces with the engine in the car. It requires a dial indicator and prying the crank full aft then measure the distance when pried forward. On my engine you could literally see the movement with the engine running as the front pulley would float back and fourth at idle enough to detect the movement.

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