Axle seals - advice?

[Robin (UK)]

Hi Guys,

I just replaced inner and outer rear axle seals and one side is already leaking.

Are there any common problems I should look out for.

What could have gone wrong?

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Robin.

[Joe Flanagan]

Robin, I recently did this on an OT vehicle. The manual said to watch for any burrs or ridges in the axle tube before you install the seal. I have installed them before where they took more force than I felt comfortable with. Could it be you damaged one while putting it in?

[TodFitch]

Were the new seals old stock leather and if so did you soak them in oil first?

As Joe mentioned, you should examine the surface that the seal rides against for burrs or other damage. On my '33 the seal rides on the wheel hub and I had a hub that had some ridges on it. I ended up putting a speedy-sleeve over the worn areas and, so far, it seems to be working.

http://www.ply33.com/Repair/axle_seal/

[Guest P15-D24]

If not, do as Tod suggests, use a speedy sleeve for repair. When reinstalling make sure they go in square. Check depth with a ruler. If they aren't square they will quickly fail and leak.

[Robin (UK)]

Thanks Guys,

I'll order news seals and then get to work!

[Dodgeb4ya]

Be careful to prevent cave in of the center area of the seals. Find an exact matching outside diameter driver to carefully tap the seal into place. If the seal has a spring make sure it doesn't pop off the seal after driving the seal into place. Don't let the rough axle shaft rub on the seal as you install it into the housing. On the backing plate seal use the proper sized driver too. Don't cave the seal in-even a little tiny bit! Do not let the axle shaft key ways sharp edge hit or cut the seal lip. Put tape over the axle keyway if you are unsure if you can install the backing plate with the new seal. Oil seal lips always face the oil or grease side. Lube the seal lips with oil or small amount of clean grease.

Bob

Edited June 28, 2012 by Dodgeb4ya

[Young Ed]

I was always taught to pack the seal with grease to help retain that spring. And yes as Bob mentioned you need the proper driver. You can probably improvise one with a proper diameter socket or pipe but its not quite as good.

[greg g]

I just had a friend do my seals at his shop.  I ordered an inner and an outer according to what was listed in the NAPA catalog.  When it came apart on my car (October 46, Detroit) the inner and outer were both the same (inner part number)  so if you have an early car you might also face this anomaly.  I think this argues against footnote number 2 as shown in Todd Fitch's parts listing.

Edited October 8, 2013 by greg g

[Plymouthy Adams]

I have installed and seem many more installed by gravity tamp using a proper sized length of pipe..quick and easy....will do more if the need arises

[TodFitch]

. . . I think this argues against footnote number 2 as shown in Todd Fitch's parts listing.

Greg,

 

Are you referring to this

 

 

Note 2

See part type code 5-13-22 for Outer Seal.

Note 3

P15S up to 15260284 Detroit built, 22065846 Evansville built, P15C up to 11906241 Detroit built, 20249066 Evansville built, use part number 651678. P15 after the above effective points use part number 1139898.

 

 

found on page http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group3#3-F

 

I just checked the '36-48 master parts book I got that from and think I've typed it in without clerical errors. So I guess it is an error in the original parts book. Or maybe I'm looking at the wrong set of foot notes.

[greg g]

Or mine is a mongrel, as it seems to have a rear differential not common to the litter.  The pinion seal also did not agree with the parts book or the NAPA parts crossovers.  It probably that your information is correct in 98% of applications, just giving a heads up that there may be as built exceptions that are not documented.

Edited October 8, 2013 by greg g

[Plymouthy Adams]

don't have a dog in this fight but I have seen a few dog piles in my time...as most of us got our old cars when they were quite old, we have no clue what parts may or may not have been swapped over the years..the parts book is a guide line and we use it in hope it is spot on...but in case of numbers not matching..you can buy any seal and bearing you need by physical dimensions...break out the calipers/mics and trudge on to success...seals/sleeves..Chicago Rawhide has an excellent online reference

Edited October 8, 2013 by Plymouthy Adams