Three Brake Lights

[Labrauer]

Does anyone out there have the wiring diagram to make the turn signals to a stop light as well as turn signal. I know that Don has done it to his car and I have read his thread but he doesn't remember how he did it as his son did most of the work he says. I would like to make three brake lights and also have the turn signals as well. What all do I have to do I allready have the two pins on the tail light sockets for the two pin bulbs so I would think it is just a matter of wiring it in some way. Any help will be appreciated and if you have drawings that would help a lot too. Oh by the way this is on a 48 Plymouth Coupe if that will help.

Thanks in advance for any responce and help,

Larry:confused:

Edited June 19, 2012 by Labrauer

[46busboys]

You should have the 7 wire turn signal switch to do this easy - if not you will need to get fancy with diodes to make it work. I just did this to my 46 and all worked fine. did you change out the sockets or just the pigtails on your lights?

[Labrauer]

I have the seven wire turn indacator allready on the car and the bulb sockets had the two pens when I got the car a few years back. I guess they will work but I was reading on this today and somewhere in a thread there was a mention of having to change the pins even if you have them. I don't know why I thought a two pin socket was all the same. From reading some of the threads I am confussed on what to do some say use diodes and others say just run a Y wire from the stop switch to the back tail light on the car. So straighten me out on this and I will keep searching the threads to get my brain (as it is) to working. I mean reading it sounds simple but getting in my head is another thing. I would like my parking lights to work and also the signals to work in the front too. Talk about the front lights only coming on when brake is appied sounds like something is wrong. I will have to print out the threads and sit down and go over and over them to get it drummed in my head.

Thanks,

Larry

[Young Ed]

The diode piece was for LED bulbs. You can use your OEM sockets with dual filament bulbs with the proper insert. The only drawback to this is when you go to change bulbs they can be put in backwards. I have been running my car like this for years now without difficulty. Oh and I also put the same dual element bulb in the center brake light with a dab of solder across the 2 terminals. Makes that a little brighter too.

[Plymouthy Adams]

when at the swap meets I usually pick up a few of these change over pigtails and keep on hand..along with some quick connect pigtails to splice these into the wiring harness for easy removal/service in the future..

One of the things I have found to be of a benefit when doing this besides the obvious index of the wires properly as four holes are provided..is to set the locater tab in one slot and index the low latch pin of the bulb to this for orientation...next use your original single phenolic disc from the socket and place to the rear of the socket housing and run the wires through..take one of the leads and loop it back around and through the phenolic again..this will lock the disc in place ..adjust this disc to allow proper movement but not enough to lose the index of the phenolic inside the socket when the bulb is removed...that way when you wire this and should have to replace the bulb..it is easy to remember the low bulb pin aligns with the locater tab..

I just this day did the front sockets this way on my P15 coupe I am working at this time..as I want to reassemble the lamps and lay aside before something get lost..

[oldodge41]

This is how I wired mine. They work fine. The wire numbers mean nothing. They were just my method of identifying wires.

[Labrauer]

Thanks for the replies on this subject and I will try and use the 41 Dodge layout that was sent. If anyone else has any information on this subject I would like to read it also

Thanks again,

Larry

[Frank Elder]

Now my neck feels better:)

[oldodge41]

Now my neck feels better:)

That was intentionally engineered to be displayed on its side so as I lay upside down under the dash and look at my laptop it was oriented correctly. :)

That's my story and I am sticking to it.:D:D

[Frank Elder]

I like your story and I'll agree to it!:)

[oldodge41]

Larry, If you have the color codes for your turn signal switch and know which goes where I could customize that print for you with colors instead of numbers. If you don't have the color codes we might be able to find them online if you have the make and model of the switch.

[Labrauer]

Oldodge41 it would do me a great deal if you would do a color diagram of the wiring of the brake lights for me. This is the wire diagram that is on my 48 Plymouth signal switch and the way I have it wired now.

Blue to thrid terminal on flasher

Black to L on flasher

Orange to Left rear

Brown to right rear

Green to right front

Yellow to Left front

Red to stop switch

K on flasher to positive power source

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/attachment.php?

Edited June 21, 2012 by Labrauer

[oldodge41]

Larry, here you go based on the info you provided. I couldn't expand the thumbnail enough to see it. Hope this helps...........Tim

[Dennis_MN]

I have the same situation, except mine is the pickup. My turn signals are not connected to my brake light. Signals and brakes are not connected except for parking lights.

I'm planning on towing a trailer later this summer and that is wired for 12 volts. I figured that I could get a magnetic towing light kit and convert the bulbs to 6 volt LED type. I was hooking this up today and installed the connector with 4 wires. White to ground, brown to the tail light, yellow to the left turn signal,

And green to the right turn signal. Dang, how do I connect the brake light? So the Reese instruction said if your towing vehicle has rear signal lights separate from the brake lights, you need a electronic tail light converter pn 74209 sold separately. That would solve this problem except it is probably designed for 12 volts. So my question is; any one experience this unit or similar, and would it work with 6 volts. Do you suppose it is just diodes, and how would positive ground affect this?

[Labrauer]

Tim,

Thanks for the print out in color for the brake light hook up for my 48 Plymouth. I think this will work the only thing is, is the third wire coming off the back lights is that a ground wire to the body? I will give this a try and I know it will work out just fine.

Thanks again,

Larry

[oldodge41]

Yes that is the ground and you are welcome.

[steveplym]

Here was my experience with this.

From a thread five years ago.

Link to the thread. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=2813

I have an aftermarket turn signal switch on my '47. It appears that it was installed in the 60's due to the appearing age of the switch. I traced the wiring coming from the switch on the column. Figured it had to be a 7 wire switch like the Foxton switch. I had pretty much figured I would have to buy another switch to achieve my desired result.

Then I got under the dash and found a wire wrapped around all the other wires coming from the turn signal switch. I was thinking this has to be the wire that is supposed to connect to the stop lamp switch. I checked this wire for voltage when ign and signal lights were on. None evident. So I hooked up power this wire. Both taillamps lit up on the bright side of the double filament. Proved that this is the wire that should be hooked up to the stop lamp.

I located the stop lamp switch and determined it was hooked up directly to the stop lamp in the trunk. I disconnected it from the switch and spliced a wire running from the stop lamp wire in the turn signal switch and the trunk stop lamp wire together into a male connector. Connected it to the stop lamp and all 3 lamps light in the rear with the brakes applied. All the signal lights work as well with brakes applied thanks to hooking them up thru the turn signal switch.

Took me 2 hours this evening to figure this out and about $2 worth of connectors/wires. This will really help letting other drivers who may follow too close that I am stopping. Gives me some peace of mind as well.

[Dennis_MN]

As it turns out my control only has 4 wires so I found a replacement 7 wire unit online and ordered it. Should solve my problem in a couple of days.

[greg g]

Dennis, I will be facing this problem in a bit with my Studebake as it has seperate turn lights and a 4 wire switch. I have done this in the past by putting seperat signal on the trailer with surface mounted aux lights. I run the brown wire to both tail lights, the stop light wire to both brake lights using the green wire, and then the yellow wire to left sigal, then run another wire from the right signal on the truck to the right signal on the trailer. I found it easier than buying and wiring a new 7 wire switch. Different way to skin the cat but each to his own. They do make a 5 wire connector if you want to get all professiona and stuff...

[Dennis_MN]

As a work around to my problem I wired the left trailer light to the brake light.

If I would turn left I would just pump the brakes.

Today however, I replaced the 4 wire turn signal with a 7 wire unit. Now I have brake lights on both sides and my trailer lights work as they are supposed to work.