D25 Pinion Seal Replacement procedure?

[bamfordsgarage]

Hello all, I have the old tub up on stands to replace the rear main seal and intend to replace my weeping pinion seal at the same time. Based on the workshop manual and forum search, I believe the basic procedure is as follows and would appreciate any comments or further suggestions to make tomorrow's job go easier...

• Remove driveshaft, done.

• Remove U-joint drive cotter, nut and flange. Made easier by bolting a length of angle iron to the flange to keep it from turning during nut removal.

• Pry out old seal somehow.

• Carefully tap new seal into place — bottoming into recess if the shaft is in good shape, otherwise use a Speedy-Sleeve or position the seal out a bit to catch good shaft.

• Bolt everything back together with 180-320 ft-lb torque.

Several questions:

I understand this procedure is independent of, and does not effect, the pinion bearing clearance, crush sleeve, and preload. Is that correct?

Seal part number: Mopar# is 663-602 per my manual and this site at http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar/framesets/partsframeset.html However few lines above the "Pinion Seal" is a line for "Pinion" that list the same Mopar number plus a NAPA and several other numbers. Are these other numbers actually for Pinion Seals?

My parts book also lists a "Drive Pinion Bearing Oil Seal Washer Felt" but the workshop manual and exploded parts view do not mention or show same. Can somebody please clarify?

Many thanks!

[TodFitch]

Sounds like you have the general procedure correct. Don't know about the felt washer thing but you are right about that number being a pinion shaft seal. See: http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group3#663602

[bamfordsgarage]

Thanks Tod, that's exactly the cross-reference information I wanted. And may I say what an interesting, detailed and helpful website — I've visited only briefly in the past, but spent close to an hour there this evening. What a tremendous amount of work and research to put all that together. Thank you!

[homer2105]

Hi Bamforth again, doing the same thing you are. I have one source that says to count the number of turns when backing out nut then doing the same in reverse. My son-inlaw is a mechanic and he said to use a punch to make reference marks to line it all when reversing. This way you can use an impact to loosen nut and just realign refernce marks when done. I'm looking for a fill plug to top off rear end when done as it slung out a bunch.

[desoto1939]

There are several specila miller tools that are used to accomplish this task.

C359 which is the pinion seal driver

c748 Pinion Seal puller

C496 U joint flange installer

C452 U joint flange puller.

I have these tools if you need to borrow them to do the job.

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[Dodgeb4ya]

I always prick punch the pinion /nut/and flange so I can set it back as it was and tighten just a tiny wee bit more upon reassembly.

I use the threaded seal puller and proper sized installer tool to set the seal.

Bob

[bamfordsgarage]

I always prick punch the pinion /nut/and flange so I can set it back as it was and tighten just a tiny wee bit more upon reassembly...

Thanks Bob — I assume by "wee bit" you mean a full 1/6 turn so as to engage the cotter pin (I did pin prick the position prior to disassembly). The nut was mighty tight on the pinion shaft.

Bob, Tod, Rich, anybody — although there is apparently some sort of crush sleeve around the pinion shaft, is is possible to overtighten the pinion nut while trying for that next cotter hole, and thus disrupt the pre-disassembly clearances? On other applications I have occasionally ground/sanded a little bit off the castle nut to allow it to turn just a little further and engage the hole.

Tod, I picked up the Chicago Rawhide #18880 seal as shown in your interchange list... not only are the diameters correct, but the axial location of the seal lip is offset enough from the factory seal that it will ride on good-as-new shaft, bypassing the worn area that would otherwise have needed a SpeedySleeve.

Rich, thanks very much for the tool loan offer but I am managing OK using tools on hand and colourful language.

[TodFitch]

Bob, Tod, Rich, anybody — although there is apparently some sort of crush sleeve around the pinion shaft, is is possible to overtighten the pinion nut while trying for that next cotter hole, and thus disrupt the pre-disassembly clearances? On other applications I have occasionally ground/sanded a little bit off the castle nut to allow it to turn just a little further and engage the hole.

Don't really know about a crush sleeve: The only rear axle pinion gear I've worked on is on my '33 and it does not have one. I wasn't far sighted enough to pin prick the parts before I disassembled them either.

Tod, I picked up the Chicago Rawhide #18880 seal as shown in your interchange list... not only are the diameters correct, but the axial location of the seal lip is offset enough from the factory seal that it will ride on good-as-new shaft, bypassing the worn area that would otherwise have needed a SpeedySleeve.

Glad to hear my cross reference is correct for that entry.

[Young Ed]

Bob, Tod, Rich, anybody — although there is apparently some sort of crush sleeve around the pinion shaft, is is possible to overtighten the pinion nut while trying for that next cotter hole, and thus disrupt the pre-disassembly clearances? On other applications I have occasionally ground/sanded a little bit off the castle nut to allow it to turn just a little further and engage the hole.

Its been awhile but I'm 99% sure I put mine on tight with the air impact.

[RobertKB]

Chris, I am following this thread with interest as I will be replacing the pinion seal at some point on the '51 Dodge Business Coupe I just picked up. I am wondering where you got the Chicago Rawhide #18880 pinion seal that is on Tod Fitch"s interchange list. Thanks in advance.

[Dodgeb4ya]

No crush sleeve on these rear ends-shims are used. I prick punch , then make note of exposed threads, take a picture and remove the nut-noting if it was good and tight upon the start of loosining it-this will tell me I can reinstall it at the same prick marks. If the nut comes loose easily the pinion bearings are probably wearing out and need to be checked. Crush sleeve types on newer Fords/Chevys ect. I go just a wee bit (1/32) turn tighter. Most all of the crush sleeve type are self locking nuts and you can put the nut where you want.

Anyway as long as the nut gets good and tight as you get close to your prick punch marks I set it as it was and use medium lock tight on the threads and insert the cotter pin. I myself like to keep things where they were if it was working good to begin with.

This is just my way of doing these seal jobs-with care!

Bob

[bamfordsgarage]

...I am wondering where you got the Chicago Rawhide #18880 pinion seal that is on Tod Fitch"s interchange list. Thanks in advance.

I deal with Commercial Solutions (formerly Commercial Bearing) http://www.csinet.ca/commercial-solutions-contact-locations.php#alberta. There is a fellow in the West Edmonton branch that has been extremely helpful over the years sourcing all manner of oddball bearings and seals for me. The CR18880 was in stock in their Nisku warehouse and at the west end for me three hours later.

Thanks Bob and Ed for your suggestions. I will be back on this job tomorrow.

[ptwothree]

I just ordered one at Amazon....$12.81...free shipping for me. Much better then going to napa and listening to "We can get it from our warehouse in 5 days and $11.00 for shipping". Napa does have parts for our cars, but, the shipping charges are a real deal killer sometimes.......