55 Fargo Posted December 24, 2011 Report Posted December 24, 2011 Hey, the last couple of starts on the Fargo truck, the engine runs really rough, for about 30 sconds to a minute:(, then poof, runs great, but really rough, and whacky during this very short time. Once started and once it is running fine, it re-starts and runs great:), then overnight, back to rough start, then clears and runs good agin within a minute. Gas or electricity, or dirt, I have no time to diagnose this today:D, and no time to search, so what do somemof you think??? Merry Christmas to all on the Forum;), wishing you all the Best in 2012 Quote
TodFitch Posted December 24, 2011 Report Posted December 24, 2011 Bearing in mind that about 90% of all carburetor issues are electrical, I'd check the choke. Quote
55 Fargo Posted December 25, 2011 Author Report Posted December 25, 2011 Just got home from work, so Merry Christmas to all. I started truck, ran rough, like fuel starved no back firing or anything. Looked in carb, hit throttle, no stream of fuel , so accelerator pup circuit not working? I added more fuel too tank, as it was low, engine is running okay, but again, when shut off, no stream of fuel in carb, when you hit the throttle linkage..... Quote
Robert Horne Posted December 25, 2011 Report Posted December 25, 2011 My 38 was difficult to start after sitting for awhile. The accelerator pump was not pumping from the bowl sitting empty very much. I always used a small squeeze bottle of gas to get it started. I finally took the accelerator pump out and worked a little oil onto it. It has worked good all summer. I never could get the choke set good, maybe a hand choke later. My 38 and 48 start ok with an open choke with a few pats on the gas pedal. Have not tried either in cold weather yet. Quote
55 Fargo Posted December 25, 2011 Author Report Posted December 25, 2011 My 38 was difficult to start after sitting for awhile.The accelerator pump was not pumping from the bowl sitting empty very much. I always used a small squeeze bottle of gas to get it started. I finally took the accelerator pump out and worked a little oil onto it. It has worked good all summer. I never could get the choke set good, maybe a hand choke later. My 38 and 48 start ok with an open choke with a few pats on the gas pedal. Have not tried either in cold weather yet. Thanx Robert and Merry Christmas to you and yours. I never have an issue to date starting this engine, it starts super easy, 12 volt and manual choke. The acceleraotr pump, must be sticking, I did not oil it late this fall, when I installed it into the carb. I do not see a nice stream of fuel going into the carb, when not running, so something is wrong, unless some dirt and scael have entered into the equation, but have 2 in-lin fuel filters, and a glass bowl on pump.... Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted December 25, 2011 Report Posted December 25, 2011 Fred, You might want to check the accelerator pump jet behind the silver plug on the side of the carb. That jet plugs up and then no squirt! Hard start. Quote
55 Fargo Posted December 25, 2011 Author Report Posted December 25, 2011 Fred, You might want to check the accelerator pump jet behind the silver plug on the side of the carb. That jet plugs up and then no squirt! Hard start. Thanx Rob, and Merry Christmas , gonna pull carb in the coming days, and have a look, maybe some crud migrated from the tank... Quote
55 Fargo Posted December 26, 2011 Author Report Posted December 26, 2011 Okay, for future reference for any Carter B&B Carb issues. Took the carb top off, discovered the following -float and needle okay -float bowl full and clean -accelerator pump, sticky, worked it free, to produce solid stream of fuel into carb horn. Placed top back onto carb, started engine, running good, fuel stream squirting, when you hit throttle I plan to pull out accelerator plunger, and soak in oil, see if that prevents this from happening again, or maybe should pull carb and soak, and thorougly check for problems like anything plugged from dirt or scale. Thanx from those who tried to help me out with this..... Quote
55 Fargo Posted December 28, 2011 Author Report Posted December 28, 2011 Okay, something is very wrong with my carb, and possibly fuel pump, and engine. Got home tonight, go to start engine, it is running really rough. Check carb, no gas squirting, pull carb top off, accelerator pump, sticking, push it up and down , fuel starts to squirt again. Start engine, running better, but rapping noise coming from fuel pump area. Now what is going on, did I do some engine damge, when it was running while not getting much fuel. I really hope I did not do any internal engine damage, oil pressure is right up there at 40 psi at idle. Not sure what is cauing the accelrator pump, to keep sticking, and hanging up.....Fred Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 28, 2011 Report Posted December 28, 2011 could be the ole pump pin is letting go and the lsap bang is from the extra play now in the pump arm..if this is the case..could be the reason for low volume and hard start/low fuel condition..I do not recall a volume test of the pump so its anyone's guess as to condition..as for the sticking accelerator pump..spring for a rebuild kit..time is money and you are already updside down on this thread.. Quote
Robert Horne Posted December 28, 2011 Report Posted December 28, 2011 I was having problem with not enough fuel getting to the fuel pump. I have 2 filters before the pump that were ok. I have steel lines from tank to pump, except, a 3 inch rubber line connecting the steel lines. The small rubber line was letting air into the line, so the fuel pump would not work often. The fuel pump noise may be just lack of fuel. Your accelerator pump may need a stronger spring to lift it back up. Quote
55 Fargo Posted December 28, 2011 Author Report Posted December 28, 2011 I was having problem with not enough fuel getting to the fuel pump. I have 2 filters before the pump that were ok. I have steel lines from tank to pump, except, a 3 inch rubber line connecting the steel lines. The smallrubber line was letting air into the line, so the fuel pump would not work often. The fuel pump noise may be just lack of fuel. Your accelerator pump may need a stronger spring to lift it back up. Thanx Robert, this carb needs to be pulled and gone through again, rebuilt or replaced. But what was happening, was the engine was running super rough, burning super awful stinky rich, and the engine was shaking. The high tension coil wire had also popped out, I did pull the coil and install another, it is running fine, but will let it sit to really determine what is going on. The high tension input on the coil, shows some sign of arcing, I am not sure this is the problem or not. Last summer my lawn tractor burned out 1 of the 2 coils, it was running in a similar manner, and god awful burning rich out the exhaust pipe, engine was shaking and losing power too. I think I have used up my allotted time on here, and will take a break, it seems my threads are annoying some of the members, so will try and figure out my own problems, my own way adiose.... Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 28, 2011 Report Posted December 28, 2011 Fred, not sure if that comment was for me...could be given my answer..but I think you may read my comment wrong...it is merely in my opinion that you have many hours (upside down, resolution to time ratio) into this problem and taking the carb apart repeatedly for a sticking pump arm without so much as replacing it is false economy as your time is worth something...less time here gives you more time elsewhere.. Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 16, 2012 Author Report Posted January 16, 2012 Okay, since last post on this thread have done following. Carb rebuilt, and verified to be okay -new spark plugs -new coil resistor and coil functioning well However, this engine is intermittently running very rough, when cold started, and once warmed up slightly, all seems well. It has no power, when this is happening, if you step on the gas not much, sputtering, running rough, no power, but no backfiring either. I think it maybe be a stuck, or bent valve, or sticking lifter. Not sure why this would happen after the engine had been running for a month or so prior, you would think, it would have been like this right from the first time I got this engine running. Anyone have any hunches...... Quote
james49ply Posted January 16, 2012 Report Posted January 16, 2012 check the intake bolts/nuts, I have had that problem, once the engine heats up the manifold swells and seals everything. re-torque the intake and exhaut when the engine is cold. Let us know how you make out. Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 16, 2012 Author Report Posted January 16, 2012 check the intake bolts/nuts, I have had that problem, once the engine heats up the manifold swells and seals everything. re-torque the intake and exhaut when the engine is cold. Let us know how you make out. You might be onto to something, just noticed rear intake going into block was slight wetness(gas) around it, stud nuts are tight. Could this gasket be toast and causing this. This manifold I suspect has not been off in a long time..........Fred Quote
Merle Coggins Posted January 16, 2012 Report Posted January 16, 2012 (edited) It kind of sounds like a sticky valve to me. I can't explain what causes it. Maybe one of the valves or guides is carboned up more than the rest and it needs a little more persuassion to break free. I've had that happen to my truck a couple of times for no apparent reason. Started up rough and then smoothed out after a minute. Merle Edited January 16, 2012 by Merle Coggins Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 16, 2012 Author Report Posted January 16, 2012 It kind of sounds like a sticky valve to me. I can't explain what causes it. Maybe one of the valves or guides is carboned up more than the rest and it needs a little more persuassion to break free. I've had that happen to my truck a couple of times for no apparent reason. Started up rough and then smoothed out after a minute. Merle True, but wet around an intake port is a problem, and will create a vaccuum leak and seal up when the metal warms up. The symptoms are in that direction too. You cannot have an intake port wet all around it without some effect..... Quote
suntennis Posted January 16, 2012 Report Posted January 16, 2012 Have you tried removing the gas cap and running the engine? If the wrong gas cap is installed it will prevent the gas tank from needed venting. By removing the gas cap, there is plenty of air to replace the gas that the engine has used. Present day gas caps seal the gas tank system and are different from caps used on engines with carbs. Quote
Young Ed Posted January 16, 2012 Report Posted January 16, 2012 Fred sounds like you've got it figured out. You can try spraying a chemical while the engine is acting up to see if that temporarily seals the leak but intake gaskets are cheap I'd just start replacing. Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 16, 2012 Author Report Posted January 16, 2012 Fred sounds like you've got it figured out. You can try spraying a chemical while the engine is acting up to see if that temporarily seals the leak but intake gaskets are cheap I'd just start replacing. well Ed, this condition would certainly creat problems, not sure it is the real culprit, but certainly needs replacing. My snow blower once, had a losse intake, it would sputter run rough, once heated would smooth right out. Once I got the intake bolts to stay in place, all has been good. I am not ruling out stuck valve(s), but why would it start out of the blue, you would think, the valves would have been sticky right from the first time I fired this engine up, after 6 years..... Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 16, 2012 Author Report Posted January 16, 2012 Have you tried removing the gas cap and running the engine? If the wrong gas cap is installed it will prevent the gas tank from needed venting. By removing the gas cap, there is plenty of air to replace the gas that the engine has used. Present day gas caps seal the gas tank system and are different from caps used on engines with carbs. Thanx but nope, my gas cap is vented.... Quote
Young Ed Posted January 16, 2012 Report Posted January 16, 2012 well Ed, this condition would certainly creat problems, not sure it is the real culprit, but certainly needs replacing.My snow blower once, had a losse intake, it would sputter run rough, once heated would smooth right out. Once I got the intake bolts to stay in place, all has been good. I am not ruling out stuck valve(s), but why would it start out of the blue, you would think, the valves would have been sticky right from the first time I fired this engine up, after 6 years..... We had a poster on here once before that got a stuck valve after starting an old engine up because he loosened up carbon and it got in places it shouldn't have. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted January 16, 2012 Report Posted January 16, 2012 My engine was completely rebuilt with new valves and guides, and yet I have had what seems to be a stuck valve or two in a couple of occasions after sitting for a few weeks. It seems to have happened both times after it sat for a month following a long trip where it ran perfectly. When it would act up I could even tell that it cranked differently, like a cylinder or 2 had no compression. It would start hard and sputter for a short time before clearing up. After that it would be fine again for a long time. I can't explain why, but it has happened to me. However, I think you may be on to something with your intake. You could verify a leak by spraying penetrating oil or something like that at the area that you suspect to be leaking while the engine is running. If the RPM picks up than you know it's drawing the chemical in and burning it. Good luck, Merle Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 19, 2012 Author Report Posted January 19, 2012 My engine was completely rebuilt with new valves and guides, and yet I have had what seems to be a stuck valve or two in a couple of occasions after sitting for a few weeks. It seems to have happened both times after it sat for a month following a long trip where it ran perfectly. When it would act up I could even tell that it cranked differently, like a cylinder or 2 had no compression. It would start hard and sputter for a short time before clearing up. After that it would be fine again for a long time. I can't explain why, but it has happened to me. However, I think you may be on to something with your intake. You could verify a leak by spraying penetrating oil or something like that at the area that you suspect to be leaking while the engine is running. If the RPM picks up than you know it's drawing the chemical in and burning it. Good luck, Merle Thanx Merle, have tried the spraying around intake, did not notice any rpm increase. It is like 20 below here right now, and getting colder, by the New York second. so have not had any time to check much out on this problem. I have been stripping the fropnt end of the truck, in my shop which is insulated, it is not bad, but have not had the heat running much in there today. I did go and try and start the truck, ran the $hits, immediately shut it off. I then pulled sparkplugs, all severely carbon fouled, so cleaned them off. When I went to install the #3 sparkplug, the top of it twisted off, not sure if it had a crack, but it twisted off. In my 30 + years of wrenching and changing spark plugs this has never happened, I have dropped and broke plugs, but did not break the tops off any by placing the socket over and just starting to turn it tight. Started engine, ran fine, so I dunno yet, what is the problem. I do plan to install new points, another this time brand new coil, and new spark plug wires. I really don't have a clue yet what is going on, but I am having fun, and learning something too......take care Quote
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