New oil pump arrived...

[blueskies]

...from Vintage Power Wagons.

Not sure what to measure, to make sure it's true, square, or whatever... I'll probably just put it on and hope for the best.

Also, in the same box was my nos crank hub, $15.

Still covered in cosmolene. Something I didn't even think about when I bought the balancer and pulley on ebay, is the size of the belt. I'm sure that the pulley that is comming will be the wide belt version, and mine is the narrow setup. Anyone know if the bolt on pulley was available in the narrow belt? Also, I was able to get the seller to put the stuff in a flat rate box, so I only paid $16.20 total for the pulley, balancer, and shipping.

Now to gitterdone.

Pete

[Young Ed]

I've never seen a bolt on one with a wide belt. Might have to source a water pump pulley for the wide belt. Your alternator should be easily converted to the wide belt.

[Don Coatney]

Pete;

My P-15 had the wide belt with the bolt on pulley. My Desoto RACE WINNER ENGINE had the narrow belt setup and that is what I am running.

[blueskies]

Pete;

My P-15 had the wide belt with the bolt on pulley. My #2 Desoto RACE ENGINE had the narrow belt setup and that is what I am running.

At least I know the narrow belt pulleys are out there, now to find one...

Pete

[Don Coatney]

Geez Pete;

Somehow my original quote got messed up when you posted it. Should have read " My Desoto RACE WINNER ENGINE":mad: Just wanted to set the record straight:D The skinny pullies are out there somewhere.

[blueskies]

If you get a wide one from your bay purchase, and want this one, it's yours for the postage. PM for measurements and such if needed.

Thanks a bunch Shel, I'll take you up on the offer is the one I get in the mail is the wide belt version. I should be recieving sometime next week.

What would I do without this forum....

Pete

[blueskies]

Geez Pete;

Somehow my original quote got messed up when you posted it. Should have read " My Desoto RACE WINNER ENGINE":mad: Just wanted to set the record straight:D The skinny pullies are out there somewhere.

Just mess'n with ya Don, wondered if you were paying attention .

Pete

[Don Coatney]

Just mess'n with ya Don, wondered if you were paying attention .

Pete

I knew you was messin with me and of course I was paying attention:D Paying attention is another reason I will win the BIG RACE! :cool:

You need to get out of the clouds...

[JerseyHarold]

I recall reading somewhere that you need to pack the oil pump with vaseline or light grease prior to installation so it primes itself when you first use it. Is that so?

[james curl]

My new oil pump came with instructions to submerge it in oil overnight before installation. You are to install it filled with oil, which can be a bit difficult when you have to insert it upside down to clear the frame then when about half way in rotate 180 degrees before cam engagement.

[Jim Saraceno]

So... Just what is the proper way to install the pump so it its primed?

[DutchEdwin]

An other way to install: you can install the oilpump, after it sat a night in oil. If oil leeks out because of installation, you can always spin the pump with a pin and a drill after the engine is filled with oil, before you put on the distributor. This way the pump will fill with oil, without damaging the bearings because the engine is not running.

I'm not sure which way to spin the pump, but that shouldn't be hard to find out.

[TodFitch]

An other way to install: you can install the oilpump, after it sat a night in oil. If oil leeks out because of installation, you can always spin the pump with a pin and a drill after the engine is filled with oil, before you put on the distributor. This way the pump will fill with oil, without damaging the bearings because the engine is not running.

I'm not sure which way to spin the pump, but that shouldn't be hard to find out.

There is a gear on the oil pump shaft that engages the camshaft. How are you going to spin the pump without turning over the whole engine?

[Normspeed]

Once the oil pump is bolted in to a flathead it's engaged with the cam by a gear. To spin the pump you need to crank the motor over. I let the machine shop install mine and then I re-did it correctly with the motor on the stand. They had indexed it wrong. When I put it back in, I followed the oiling instructions and when first startup came could not get 1 lb of pressure cranking the motor with just the starter. After many tries I hooked up the coil and started the motor. Instant 40 lbs. No problems since.

[Don Coatney]

If I recall I filled my oil pump with grease before I installed it. I spun my freshly rebuilt engine with the starter on the bench to circulate the oil and do a compression check prior to starting.

[DutchEdwin]

There is a gear on the oil pump shaft that engages the camshaft. How are you going to spin the pump without turning over the whole engine?

Tod, there a point, you cannot do this when the head is installed. But when the head is still off you can. This way the pump fills with oil. Be shure the cam doesn't pop out when you trun the intermediate shaft. So the cam retaining plate must be bolted on.

I'm not shure wether Pete has the the head mounted or not. But I should have mentioned it .

My question, The grease methode should work. But what type should you use, does the gease go through the small pipes and oil filter of the oil system?

[Don Coatney]

Tod, there a point, you cannot do this when the head is installed. But when the head is still off you can. This way the pump fills with oil. Be shure the cam doesn't pop out when you trun the intermediate shaft. So the cam retaining plate must be bolted on.

I'm not shure wether Pete has the the head mounted or not. But I should have mentioned it .

My question, The grease methode should work. But what type should you use, does the gease go through the small pipes and oil filter of the oil system?

Dutch;

Have you actually done this???

Removing the head will not disengage the timing chain, or the valve train. It is not possible to spin the timing pump with an electric drill on a Mopar flathead six cylinder engine to prime the engine lubricating system. This procedure will work on a Chevy V-8.

[billwillard]

Maybe You Fill The Pump With Oil And Plug The Holes With Grease To Hold The Oil In???

[Don Coatney]

I see by looking at the profile picture Dutch posted that he has an old Hemi engine. Not much else in his profile. To give him the benefit of doubt he may be talking about spinning the Hemi oil pump with an electric drill. The drill procedure will not work on a flathead 6.

[james curl]

If you hold the gear end up until you can start it in and then turn 180 degrees about the drive assembly before engaging the camshaft with the distributor drive gear very little oil escapes the pump. You still have to induce flow from the strainer/float to the pump as that side of the system should gravity drain when the pump is removed. That is probably why on most cars that it takes a second or two to build oil pressure on first start up each day.

[DutchEdwin]

Dutch;

Have you actually done this???

Removing the head will not disengage the timing chain, or the valve train. It is not possible to spin the timing pump with an electric drill on a Mopar flathead six cylinder engine to prime the engine lubricating system. This procedure will work on a Chevy V-8.

I have an early V8 engine, poly head. When I remove the head, the push rods will be gone. So the camshaft will NOT operate the valves. I can spin the oil pump with a rod then. The only thing is, I cannot pressurise the system in this way. I can ony see oil running from the holes in the block.

I didn't use this trick yet, I've read this on a hotrodders site from a guy who did this a coulpe of times, because he did not have an engine oiler like: http://www.atk-engines.com/tools.html.

It looked possible to me, the guy had 2xxx posts on the forum. I'm going to try this. I could operat it by hand when the pump, intermediate shaft and camshaft were still in the block.

I didn't know that on a flat 6 when you take the head off the valves are still engaged. Sorry for the confusion.

Can any one tell about the grease getting into the filter, will it clugg it or will the grease disolve in the oil?

p.s. To get less confusion, I edited my signature, adding my engine type.

[Plymouthy Adams]

I still think there is some confusion on rotating the pump on the poly block engine..the cam is installed into the engine and locked in place and timed with the crank via the timing gears. The intermediate shaft is then next installed and timed (aligned to correct indent) and then the oil pump is aligned and bolted in place and lastly the distributor is dropped into place..this like most Mopar dist. when the intermediate shaft is aligned properly will go 180 out if not carreful. Turning the oil pump in a static condition requires pulling the distributor, then the intermediate shaft whick can be difficult at times due to build up of depositis on the lower end. I checked my 55 motor book just to be sure the early poly had the intermediate shaft as the later model A and the LA..

Or...I'm all wet..not impossible as I truly don't have a breakdown of this engine in my Mopar engine book.

[Merle Coggins]

I used grease in mine when I built my engine. However it was very light engine assembly lube. You wouldn't want to use any heavy grease that won't break up easily in oil.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Back with the early aluminum V8 Buick with the oil pump built into the front cover..rebuilding them in place was a common occurance...as the shaft had to be pushed up from below you needed something to hold it in place while you put it together and yet thin out when hot and blend with the oil..recommended item....vasaline....