Sniper Posted April 19 Report Posted April 19 You asked how the clearancde was adjusted, if you notice all of Tony's measurements did not include the O ring. If you use the correct o ring then no, it will not affect anything. Too thin, it leaks, too thick then yeah, it affects the clearance because then the stop isn't the metal to metal contact of the cover to the housing, but rather the fat o ring not squishing down enough, Quote
Ivan_B Posted April 19 Report Posted April 19 Okay, that makes sense. I was just making sure that the o-ring is not included in the gap calculation... The ring needs to be slightly thicker than the groove, in order to make sealing contact. I'll try to find a matching ring or attempt to fabricate one from a soft cork gasket material. I need to check how thick my cork sheets are. I might even be able to re-seal the original ring, but I suspect that it will fall apart as soon as I take it out. 🤣 Quote
Sniper Posted April 19 Report Posted April 19 I would just buy the correct O ring, Buna N should be the proper material. https://www.globaloring.com/blog/how-to-properly-size-an-o-ring-the-first-time-around/ If the cross section falls between two standard thickness, get the larger of the two. But odds are yours just got old and cracked. Quote
DJ194950 Posted April 19 Report Posted April 19 O-rings do not work for this app... I have several o-ring assortment boxes and tried 3-4 different ones. None worked, all tries still leaked often worse than before. It was originally a square rubber seal of just the right thickness.. It needs to stay that type seal. Where to get one? I do not know these days. Check some of the Mopar parts suppliers. Can this type be bought at a local bearing and seal seller? They used to be avail on EBAY. Now? DJ Quote
Sniper Posted April 19 Report Posted April 19 You know, looking at the pics in the link I provided, they don't look like square cut O rings, but if that is what they are then that's what you need. McMaster Carr has a good listing of square cut O rings in Buna N Quote
Ivan_B Posted April 19 Report Posted April 19 These o-rings are still available on e-bay... The size is listed at 2-17/32 or 64.3mm (not sure ID or OD though 🤣). The original ring is square cross-section, correct. However, I suspect that either type (or even a properly-sized cork) will work. I will dress it with sealant, anyway. I'll take my cap off, today, to see what's in there. Technically, you can even bead-seal it without the ring, like it is done on some modern vehicles. I do not like the sealant-only solution, though. This is likely done for cost saving. Quote
Dave72dt Posted April 19 Report Posted April 19 It was probably round originally and has been subjected to years of being compressed into a square cut groove. I wouldn't want to subject cork to the pressure that is developed in an oil pump. Are those Ebay rings square cut or round? Calipers to measure ID and OD of groove. Quote
Ivan_B Posted April 20 Report Posted April 20 5 hours ago, Dave72dt said: I wouldn't want to subject cork to the pressure that is developed in an oil pump. That's a good point, did not think about the pressure. I cannot find the data sheet for the fel-pro rubber-cork material... Other manufacturers rate theirs at around 100-150psi 🤔 Quote
Ivan_B Posted April 22 Report Posted April 22 Took the pump cap off, today. Thought it over and decided to go with a new o-ring. According to the size I measured, this should be the standard #143 o-ring. Napa is the only local store which could order something like this. We'll see how that goes on Tuesday. 🙄 BTW, on the 1940 frame with 201 engine, the pump slides right out without doing any adjustments to the engine. Quote
TodFitch Posted April 22 Report Posted April 22 2 hours ago, Ivan_B said: BTW, on the 1940 frame with 201 engine, the pump slides right out without doing any adjustments to the engine. The trick is to get it clocked properly on installation so that the distributor rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire when the engine is at TDC. See the factory service manual for how to do that. Quote
Ivan_B Posted April 22 Report Posted April 22 14 minutes ago, TodFitch said: The trick is to get it clocked properly on installation so that the distributor rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire when the engine is at TDC. I saw that, but figured that it was for when you take everything apart, etc. I just carefully took it out (with the engine at whatever position) and marked the shaft, so that I inserted it back exactly the same way it was. Should be good to go, right? 🤨 Quote
TodFitch Posted April 22 Report Posted April 22 1 hour ago, Ivan_B said: I saw that, but figured that it was for when you take everything apart, etc. I just carefully took it out (with the engine at whatever position) and marked the shaft, so that I inserted it back exactly the same way it was. Should be good to go, right? 🤨 Yes, if you got it back in exactly the same way it came out you should be good. Quote
LazyK Posted April 22 Report Posted April 22 1 hour ago, TodFitch said: See the factory service manual for how to do that. Read and follow all directions or I can almost guarantee you will be back here with a no start issue. Quote
Ivan_B Posted April 22 Report Posted April 22 Well, could be. If I got the pump a tooth off, I'll be ~36 degrees out of timing. Once I am done with the seal, etc. tomorrow, I'll just verify timing at TDC before running the engine Quote
Ivan_B Posted April 25 Report Posted April 25 Okay, good news: I checked the TDC mark, and the distributor is pointing at either #1 or #6 plug, which is good. I was also able to build-up my good-old 40psi pressure rotating the engine with the starter (no plugs). If the pump stops leaking as well, after I have a chance to drive it in a day or so, we would call it a success Quote
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