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Posted

Went up to New Hampshire with a friend on Saturday with hopes of driving it home. Didn't quite work out like that, but it's home anyway. After putting a few hours into the brakes and blowing out a front hose, I decided to call in reinforcements(AAA).

Saturday it got vacuumed, and emptied. There were tons of new parts in it, like rockers(it needs them, see the picture), ignition tune up stuff, wheel cylinder kits and more...

Sunday and Monday it got new steel brake lines, hoses, and rear cylinders and shoes. Front cylinders and master got a rebuild. When my son got home from first grade we washed the car. Looks a lot better.

Tuesday was bleeding day. What a pain to do by yourself. Finally got a good pedal and took it around the block. Felt pretty good, but just wasn't down shifting right.

Today, I went over the wiring to the transmission and kickdown. Somebody must've tried to rewire it some time ago, but didn't know what they were doing and gave up. I had the diagram that I found on here, and my service manual and got it lined out right. Man what a difference! It downshifts now and upshifts quicker too!

Anyway, I'm pretty excited about this one and wanted to show a few more pictures.

Also a question- Isn't the anti-stall solenoid supposed to raise the idle a little? It's not doing it for me. It was part of the wrong wiring and had power to it all the time. Probably got burnt out right?

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Posted

The front floor boards are pretty much gone. I ordered replacements today from C2CFabrication. Also ordered a lot of fabric covered wire from Brillman. I want to do it right. It had a street sign and several sheet metal patches screwed in place. The seat covers are in nice shape, but they seem like they would rip easily, but it came with a roll of replacement fabric too.

Under the hood seems fairly clean, and the heater duct is almost all there! It's got a slight regular miss at idle but seems to runs strong enough for now. I'll do a compression check on soon.

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Posted

Great project and sounds like you are keen to go. That will be a great looking car when done. Getting the brakes done is a big plus and it sounds like it runs pretty well. Get some miles on it and heated up well a few times and it will likely run better. Good luck with the project!

Posted

The anti-stall solenoid when energized prevents the throttle plate from rapidly returning to a slow idle so the engine won't stall out. There is a pump plunger separate fron the accelerator pump plunger , It is this anti-stall plunger that is connected to the throttle linkage and under this plunger is a fuel orifice jet that the anti-stall solenoid moves a needle in or out of the fuel jet controlling how fast or slow the engine returns to idle. With just the key turned on the solenoid should be energized-put a small non- magnetized screw driver over the solenoid cover rivit-screw driver tip should be pulled to it. It is actvated in generally low range coming to a stop.

Bob

Posted
The anti-stall solenoid when energized prevents the throttle plate from rapidly returning to a slow idle so the engine won't stall out. There is a pump plunger separate fron the accelerator pump plunger , It is this anti-stall plunger that is connected to the throttle linkage and under this plunger is a fuel orifice jet that the anti-stall solenoid moves a needle in or out of the fuel jet controlling how fast or slow the engine returns to idle. With just the key turned on the solenoid should be energized-put a small non- magnetized screw driver over the solenoid cover rivit-screw driver tip should be pulled to it. It is actvated in generally low range coming to a stop.

Bob

Thanks Bob, I was hoping you would see this, figured you'd know the answer. I'll check through that circuit again tomorrow. Does it make any difference if the wires to that solenoid are switched? It seems like its working right now, but the PO's wiring may be in question... Does it slow the return to idle when upshifting? What does the Shift-Ease kit do for it? Any other advice you can give?

Thanks to everyone else too for all the encuoragement:)

Posted (edited)

Cool Chrysler Moose. I like that body style. You'll have it shaped

up before long.

This tan coupe is actually very nice, except the weather is getting to the

paint now. When I first saw it, it was sitting in a garage in Carl Junction.

But the owner died and his son now has it at his residence south of town.

I don't know what he would take to sell it, but he doesn't seem to be

actively trying to unload it. But not doing anything with it either.

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Edited by BobT-47P15
Posted

Thanks guys. Hey BobT, you sure that's not a pink MaryKay car? Maybe before they switched to Caddy's?;) It looks pretty nice though... You gonna get it?

I found this screwed into the firewall. The wires weren't hooked to anything, so I took it off. Anybody know what it is? I grounded it and hooked the red wire to the negative post and it vibrated for a few seconds. What does it do?

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Posted

Sorry, yeah it was on the engine side, and the un-used wires were strapped to the oil pressure and temp sender lines... On the back it says "6/12 volts". I wonder if that means 6 or 12 volts, or 6 to 12 volts(like a converter)?

Posted

Looks like a circuit breaker, And since CB's work on amps, it would work on either voltage, but the wires sure look small for 6V. The points would open breaking the circuit if the unit gets hot from an over draw or a short.

Was the car converted to 12V?? Genny would have a green data tag.

Posted

No, car is still 6v +ground, and will stay that way. It is a vibrator/oscillator of some sort. There are two sets of points and a sprung weight between. Hooked up to my 6v charger it certainly does vibrate. That's with power run either way to the black and red wires. All I could see with my meter was that it puts out 4 volts from the yellow wire.? Oh well, don't need it anyway. Just file it in the not quite sure box:rolleyes:

Posted

Moose, that coupe is light tan (now faded).

I tried to find out what the guy wants for it, but he's kinda

hard to talk to (at least for me). I sort of offered him $3500

for it once, and got no response.

His dad was a friend, and we used to go parts hunting for our coupes

owned back in the 70s. But his dad passed on 4 or 5 years ago. Son

seems to be a different sort of personality.

Posted
School me Mooseter:)Why havent you made a one header exhaust yet? No RRRAAAPPPP? Or are there interference problems?

Thanks,

Frank Elder

I have made replacements for stock single exhausts, but not an individual runner type header. This might be the time. Maybe I could squeeze some long runners toward the back... Still have to do a dual intake.

Right now it's still got a big leak before the muffler, and when I was revving it the other day for my son, he thought it sounded like Doc Hudson. That can't be wrong. 2-1/2" would be a little too big. Maybe a single 2-1/4" all the way out the back.:cool:

Posted

Got some more work done today. Took the seats out. Took the off-white shag carpet out. Got to see more of the PO's work, and started to redo some it. Lots of thick sheet metal and screws. Cut the passenger side "rocker" panels out-more like U-channels, heavy gauge stuff. Then my son and I started painting what we could get to through the open floor. The inner rockers are in the wrong place, too far inboard, and the new outer rockers won't reach. They are just flat plate(more heavy gauge). I cut an L-shaped piece off the old rocker and that is the rusty piece you can see in the last picture. It's just clamped on for now, to see if it's in the right place.

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Posted

These are of my dormant 49 Chrysler if they might help...it's a club coupe...the rockers are factory.

This one is drivers side under the rear quarter panel...shows how the quarter is attached to the outside of the rocker

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Drivers rocker minus the rusted portion

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Inside the drivers door floor.

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Hope it helps a bit get that old girl on the road :)

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