JoelOkie Posted July 15, 2010 Report Posted July 15, 2010 I started the engine in the 36 Plymouth this afternoon, after soaking the carb and fuel pump in a bucket of gas over night last night, changing the oil, points, rotor, cap, and plug wires , and hooking up the one gallon "on the fender" fuel cell. The carb had been clogged up with a mud dauber nest, but none of it had gotten down into the intake. I pulled the plugs and oiled down into the cylinders Tuesday. I cranked it off and on for a good while without the coil wire on to get some oil pressure up, and wired it back up and with a good healthy prime it kicked off pretty quick. Quite a mesquito fog going until the oil burned out. I didn't run it but a few minutes as I need some hoses as the water runs out as fast as it goes in, so didn't have time to tell much about the engine other than it will run. I was surprised when I had gone to get it that there wasn't a brake froze, as both of the other Plymouths I have owned had to be skidded along until I could get the drums pulled, but all the wheels turn on the car, and the driveline turns by the rear wheels. The transmission must be in nuetral, but the shifter is stuck fast. Anyone know the best way to "work" it free? I was thinking maybe some heat, in case it had grease set up in it, but have never had this problem, so could use some help with it. I am going to Walmart tonight and try and finally get me a camera that I can load pics onto the computer myself with. Right now I have to depend on my daughter, Candice, and she works long hours and goes to college too, so I don't bug her about taking pictures for me too much. I want to get some documentation this time, so I will be able to look back and see how it came along. I have already gotten some good advice, information, and tips from some of the guys on the forum about the P-2's. The car needs a lot of work, but it is not particularly hard stuff. Floor pans are all gone, pin holes in several areas of the trunk, and the passenger front door will have to be re-skinned, or find another one. The frame is all good and viable, as far as I have been able to tell by looking. The other doors are all good. the door post seem good. Of course there is no interior left, and this model has a rather large sun roof, heh heh. The fenders need the usual going over, but all in all, this car is no worse than many of the others from in the 40-50-60's, and is probably better than what some guys have had to start with. I figure I'm in for quite an education. Joel Quote
randroid Posted July 16, 2010 Report Posted July 16, 2010 Joel, I missed the part about you taking possession of that car, but I've been either gone from the computer or lost in my own little world for almost a week. Congratulations on a new project! There's nothing I could add to your method of trying to get it started that you haven't already done, and I'm not sure I would have thought of soaking the carb in gasoline to soften the gaskets and clean out the dirt. There's something to a country boy's methods of getting stuff done that can plumb evade a lot of us and I tip my hat to you. When it finally comes time to roll it with Rustoleum it might also be time for me to drive Pigiron down to your neck of the woods and show you how to do it. Best of luck with a fine project! -Randy Quote
insaneradio Posted July 16, 2010 Report Posted July 16, 2010 WOW I am impressed and SHOCKED! All at the same time being EXCITED for you!! Had to be a great feeling to hear it run. That is great news! PLEASE keep us posted ! LOTS of pictures please! Dave Quote
TodFitch Posted July 16, 2010 Report Posted July 16, 2010 Incredible. From the condition of the body in the picture I was guessing that a lot would be needed to get the engine to turn over much less actually start. Congratulations! Quote
builtfercomfort Posted July 16, 2010 Report Posted July 16, 2010 Ditto on the "lots of pictures" request. As for the trans, see if you can get some acetone / AFT mixture onto all the shifting forks and joints. Does anyone know if this model has the 'standard' Mopar flathead motor, or at least the same transmission bolt pattern -- or is it specific to the older models? Quote
Robert Horne Posted July 16, 2010 Report Posted July 16, 2010 Glad you got the 36 running. My 36, 37, & 38 tranmissions, I drained the heavy oil and replaced with automatic trans fluid for awhile. My 38 trans does real good now with the heavy oil back in. Quote
Captain Neon Posted July 16, 2010 Report Posted July 16, 2010 I cheered when I got my P15 started after changing my fuel pump, and I was only down a month. I can only imagine how excited you were to get your new to you P2 running so quickly. Quote
greg g Posted July 16, 2010 Report Posted July 16, 2010 Isn't the trans a top shifter with a removable pies that holds the shifter?? If so you should be able pull the top with the lever and get if freed up?? Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted July 16, 2010 Report Posted July 16, 2010 Man, Joel, you have been busy. I too am shocked the thing started and ran. Sounds like a good project. You're going to have a lot of fun with it, I think. Is rust not as big a problem in Oklahoma as it is in the East? Quote
JoelOkie Posted July 16, 2010 Author Report Posted July 16, 2010 Joel,When it finally comes time to roll it with Rustoleum it might also be time for me to drive Pigiron down to your neck of the woods and show you how to do it. Best of luck with a fine project! -Randy Randy...sounds like a hell of a deal to me. Quote
JoelOkie Posted July 16, 2010 Author Report Posted July 16, 2010 WOW I am impressed and SHOCKED! All at the same time being EXCITED for you!! Had to be a great feeling to hear it run. That is great news! PLEASE keep us posted !LOTS of pictures please! Dave Thanks, Dave. Yes exciting day here. I have got my new camera tonight, and will be figuring how to work it in the next few days. I have often needed to post pics and not beeen able to, so that is exciting (and will be helpful when trying to explain what I'm asking about) also. Quote
JoelOkie Posted July 16, 2010 Author Report Posted July 16, 2010 Incredible. From the condition of the body in the picture I was guessing that a lot would be needed to get the engine to turn over much less actually start.Congratulations! Thanks Tod. Your website has became my home away from home eher lately. I kept going back to the fact that the engine would turn when I was considering whether to buy the car or not. I kept thinking about what some of the guys here on the forum have said...if it turns, and you have spark, and you have gas...you got a running engine. Just didn't know if it was going to try and throw a rod through the block at me, run for a minute then melt in to a pile, or what. It didn't sound much different in the short time it ran than my 218's. Joel Quote
JoelOkie Posted July 16, 2010 Author Report Posted July 16, 2010 Ditto on the "lots of pictures" request. As for the trans, see if you can get some acetone / AFT mixture onto all the shifting forks and joints. Does anyone know if this model has the 'standard' Mopar flathead motor, or at least the same transmission bolt pattern -- or is it specific to the older models? thanks for the tip. Sounds like Greg's idea to remove the top and get some juice going over the gears will be the next thing. I plan on driving the car (albeit perhaps a very short distance) this weekend. The engine, a 201, marked P2-34037 looks in just about every way to be the same. Joel Quote
greg g Posted July 16, 2010 Report Posted July 16, 2010 The 23.5 in engines were all basically the same casting from 35 on when the full length water jacket was added to the left side. I think the starter mount may have benn different also. Some of th eengines have different holes drilled and tapped for differnt accesories and linkages etc. But as far as bell housing, I believe the car are the same through the end of car production in 59. And since I have seen truck engines in cars and visa versa, thoughthe bellhousing are different for the trucks, it would apppear they olt on the same. Differences for Fluid drive also but that is usually just the depth of the casting from block to trans mount. Quote
JoelOkie Posted July 16, 2010 Author Report Posted July 16, 2010 Man, Joel, you have been busy. I too am shocked the thing started and ran. Sounds like a good project. You're going to have a lot of fun with it, I think. Is rust not as big a problem in Oklahoma as it is in the East? Joe, I don't think rust is as bad here on framework, fenders, and rockers, ect. The glass got broke out of this car sometime (a long time ago), and I think the jute, or whatever fibre was under the flooring led to the rust out over a period of time. The fender to running board connections are the same way. Other than those places it doesn't seem to have gotten too much. I think the old man that had the cars must have kept the oil changed and made sure the engines were turned every so often, as it turned easy, and the oil wasn't really all that dirty, but was very thick. I kept waiting for sludge, and none ever really came out. I am going to pull the pan soon and check it out. I changed a couple of wheels and to my surprise the lugbolts turned out really easy. I was trying to go around and get the tires aired up, and by the time I would get another up the one I had just did was flat again. I am getting a couple of tires mounted tomorrow. I appreciate all the replies. I need to lean to address multiple quotes, or whatever it is, but want to thank everyone that has wished me well, and offered advice. Joel Quote
JoelOkie Posted July 16, 2010 Author Report Posted July 16, 2010 The 23.5 in engines were all basically the same casting from 35 on when the full length water jacket was added to the left side. I think the starter mount may have benn different also. Some of th eengines have different holes drilled and tapped for differnt accesories and linkages etc. But as far as bell housing, I believe the car are the same through the end of car production in 59. And since I have seen truck engines in cars and visa versa, thoughthe bellhousing are different for the trucks, it would apppear they olt on the same. Differences for Fluid drive also but that is usually just the depth of the casting from block to trans mount. Well that is good to know Greg. I bought Rock Ables entire drivetrain he is taking out of his 41. I am not sure (haven't even thought before now to ask), if the tranny is a floor or column. Should have enough parts to get something together, and a good core or two for rebuild purposes. Quote
JoelOkie Posted July 16, 2010 Author Report Posted July 16, 2010 Glad you got the 36 running. My 36, 37, & 38 tranmissions, I drained the heavy oil and replaced with automatic trans fluid for awhile. My 38 trans does real good now with the heavy oil back in. Bob, makes sense. It's not like I'll be driving anywhere past the end of my own property for a good while, but I figure if I get it rolling I can move it in and out of the barn to work on, and get it limbered up a little. Thanks for all of your help already. Joel Quote
P-12 Tommy Posted July 16, 2010 Report Posted July 16, 2010 I'd be as excited as you on getting it running. Made your day, huh? Tom Quote
greg g Posted July 16, 2010 Report Posted July 16, 2010 Trannies changed to column shift in 39 I believe. 40 for sure. Quote
builtfercomfort Posted July 16, 2010 Report Posted July 16, 2010 Trannies changed to column shift in 39 I believe. 40 for sure. I got one communication that the first year or two of the column shift transmissions MAY have been easy to convert back to floor shift by changing the top or side plates and swapping in floor shift parts. I don't know if this is fact, hope, or wishful thinking - has anyone heard this, or have actual information rather than vague rumors? Quote
Andydodge Posted July 16, 2010 Report Posted July 16, 2010 As far as I know whilst the 39 & 40 gearboxes will both bolt up to the same bellhousing the 39 has the floor shifter that bolts onto the top of the gearbox with no external levers whilst the 40 onwards have the external levers on the side of the gearbox and a smooth top...........andyd Quote
Young Ed Posted July 16, 2010 Report Posted July 16, 2010 39 plymouths were the change over year. The cheaper roadking model still had floor shift and the deluxe had the new column shift. Then in 1940 all plymouths were column shift. Whether or not its easy to switch back to a floor shift I have no idea. Quote
Eneto-55 Posted July 16, 2010 Report Posted July 16, 2010 Is rust not as big a problem in Oklahoma as it is in the East? Joe, I don't think rust is as bad here on framework, fenders, and rockers, ect. The glass got broke out of this car sometime (a long time ago), and I think the jute, or whatever fibre was under the flooring led to the rust out over a period of time. The fender to running board connections are the same way. Other than those places it doesn't seem to have gotten too much. Joel I’m a “displaced Okie myself, & I’ve spent around 10 of the 35+ years since I got out of HS in the north and east (Minnesota & Ohio). The cars are in a lot worse shape out here than in the south west, and you don’t even see as many old ones. I think part of that may also be due to having steel mills close-by around here, too – I think more cars get scrapped here in the east. Quote
1940plymouth Posted July 16, 2010 Report Posted July 16, 2010 Joel, Glad you got the old Plymouth running, will be anxoius to see photos. How far do you live from Fletcher, OK? Good luck, Bob Quote
Don Coatney Posted July 16, 2010 Report Posted July 16, 2010 I thought I heard a rumbling noise coming from the west. I did see a big cloud of smoke. Glad you got it running. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.