electrical

[DollyDodge]

I forgot to include on the last post what I am looking for is the FASCO circuit breaker part of the switch.

[Dave72dt]

You might try Radio Shack or someplace that installs car audio systems. You might have to get creative in installing one but as long as it;s inline you should be OK.

[DollyDodge]

I found some that are 30 amp, like the one on the switch, but they are 12v. Same size as the one I have. Would it work, or does it need to be a 6v variety. I know very little about electricity. I also see the VPW has a 6 V 40 amp headlight circuit breaker.

Edited July 12, 2010 by DollyDodge

[NiftyFifty]

I found some that are 30 amp, like the one on the switch, but they are 12v. Same size as the one I have. Would it work, or does it need to be a 6v variety. I know very little about electricity. I also see the VPW has a 6 V 40 amp headlight circuit breaker.

No reason the 30/12 wouldn't work if you can reverse it, but the 40/6 would allow more then whats supposed to come thorugh in the even of a ground fault....best to stay away from it.

[Plymouthy Adams]

current is not polarity sensitve...nor is it AC or DC...current is current..the voltage rating of circuit breaker like that of a fuse is the protection rating to the USER..as in if you blow a fuse rated at 6 volts it is guaranteed the blown gap will be wide enough to prevent a spark jump across the burn..same if it were 120 volt etc etc..that is the only reason for a voltage rating on the device..ignore this by putting a low voltage fuse in a high voltage app and you could get the shock of your life...

[DollyDodge]

Ok Folks, I am still confussed. I went to the Auto parts store yesterday. I asked if they had a 6V 30amp. Curcuit breaker and they said no, but they had 12v 30 amps and they said the 12 v cb would work. Three people at the store (one mechanic and to sales reps) say the voltage rating on the circuit breakers is irrelavant. I also see sites on line the offer circuit breaker like the one I need they say they are good for 6-24 volts. They have the same part number for a 30 amp circuit breaker no matter what the voltage is. However on another old car site there was a great deal of discussion about using 12v headlight circuit breakers on a 6 v system and the concensous is that it shouldn't be done. I hooked up the 12 v 30 amp on my switch and every thing seems to work fine. The old circuit breaker just doesn't work. If I apply a hot wire to it with out it being connected to anything it will work for awhile then quit. It works again in a few minutes. Any connection to the AUX terminal instantly makes it trip off. I keep think back to Ohms law and and thing that th Voltage rating of the circuit breaker must matter, but at this point I don't have a clue. Anymore thoughts on the topic would be appreciated.

[TodFitch]

current is not polarity sensitve...nor is it AC or DC...current is current..the voltage rating of circuit breaker like that of a fuse is the protection rating to the USER..as in if you blow a fuse rated at 6 volts it is guaranteed the blown gap will be wide enough to prevent a spark jump across the burn..same if it were 120 volt etc etc..that is the only reason for a voltage rating on the device..ignore this by putting a low voltage fuse in a high voltage app and you could get the shock of your life...

Not quite.... At least with regard to AC versus DC on a switch/circuit breaker. When the contacts open an arc can be drawn that will last until something stops it (contacts opening much further, insulator inserted between contacts or polarity change on the AC). For that reason high current DC switches and, I think, circuit breakers are a bit more expensive than their AC counterparts as they need to have something more built in to stop the contacts from arcing.

With respect to this thread however that point it moot. The subject is a DC circuit breaker and it would seem to me that a 12v rated one would function just fine in a 6v system as long as the ampere rating is correct.

[DollyDodge]

Hi Todd, I think II am beginnng to accept the idea that the voltage for the circuit breaker doesn't matter, as long as the amps are correct. Very confusing to me all this electric stuff.

[DollyDodge]

I got my headlights, panel lights, parking lights, tail lights, and stop lights all working this weekend. However, they dim as the engine rpms go to idle, and get bright (much brighter than I remember when I use to drive it-new wires do wonders) when the rpms increase. Can I fix that some how? Seems I remember a string about that subject, but I can't seem to find it. Attached is a picture of my taillight harnes I built this weekend, it is of the engine end.

[Jim Gaspard]

I'm embarrassed to say I have not been able to get my B3B started yet after installing a new R.I. OEM harness last Fall. It ran fine before, but original wirinig was unraveling. It's been mostly time conflicts with my job, but I'm determined to get her cranked up soon.

I want to by-pass the gas flow from my tank and even the fuel pump by installing a fuel IV above the carburetor. Does anyone have a simple set-up to rig a quart fuel supply above the carb? Gravity is enough, right? Help, and thanks.

[Dave72dt]

Fuel tank from an old riding lawnmower works well along with some plain old fuel line. Some have shut off valves on the tankor in the line. Some simple brackets to keep it stationary. Gravity works fine.

[Plymouthy Adams]

outboard gas tank is also ideal for this type set up....

[Young Ed]

outboard gas tank is also ideal for this type set up....

The 46 1/2 ton yard truck up at the cabin has been using one of these as a gastank since we got it up and running probably 8-10 years ago. When you rarely leave the 6acres you don't need more than that. Fuel pump has no issues sucking gas from the bed up to the front.

[Desotodav]

Dollydodge, I'm not an electrical genius like some of the other forum members, but could your dull/bright headlight problems stem from a fault in your voltage regulator? My understanding of a voltage regulator is that it is designed to automatically maintain a constant voltage level. Your voltage seems to vary to your headlights given your present situation. Perhaps someone can back me up on this theory?

Is the wiring harness that you have pictured the section that commences at the firewall and goes to the rear of the truck? The single black wire in the centre of photo (pointing upwards) appears to be the fuel tank sender wire. If it is that section of wiring, I don't imagine that that section would have any influence on your headlights. Send me a PM with your email details if you wish and I will return email to you with an attached file that I have used for my wire harness.

Desotodav

[Plymouthy Adams]

applied voltage level is directly related to brightness...and yes the voltage regulator has voltage control circuit to ensure the battery voltage level is maintained..there are tests/procedures for the properly adjustment of the regulator in the book. Also..as many know voltage drops due to corroded/loose connections are also a direct cause for dim lights...grounds are really notorious for this due to the odixation of the skin between what is usually dissimmilar metal..however that is not to say you could not have a drop also on the supply wire also..search on lline for how to make voltage drop tests..

try this www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm