Steering column removal

[1952gary]

Time has arrived to start on my 1952 B3b restro. The tear down is to the point of cab removal with the steering wheel and column as the remaining task left. What are the best procedures for this removal? The horn assembly and nut has been removed. Bolt removed at base of column near steering box. I would like to hear your expert advise on this last task.

[Merle Coggins]

The steering gear box and the shaft up to the wheel are one complete unit and must be removed as such. I have lifted cabs off with the steering unit in place, but you'll need a crane that can lift high enough.

Merle

[1949d100]

I was able to get it off with 4 helpers... Mind you we were all over 6'2" It was tricky, but doable.

[1952gary]

Thanks for your feedback. I went to the manual on line and found I had to remove the steering box with column. The steering wheel is a little stubborn. I backed off the nut and give it a solid hit and it shattered. It appears I will need to design a puller to remove the steering wheel.

[Jim Gaspard]

Use the Search link in the masthead above. Type in "Steering Wheel Removal" and you will find numerous threads on the subject. I was at your stage a couple of years ago and I found someone who had improvised a steering wheel removal tool. I contacted them and they sent it to me and my steering wheel was off in a matter of minutes. I have since passed it on to someone, who like me and you, needed an improvised puller. It's still out there in the hands of a Forum member. Good luck.

[MBF]

I'm going to swap out the steering column in my 1 ton.  I have the steering wheel and under dash supports off.  My question is can the box be removed and the other installed w/o removing the floor panel?  If I jack up the truck can it be removed by sliding it down and out the bottom?  Does the drag link need to be removed to do this?    Thanks. Mike

Edited November 14, 2013 by MBFowler

[pflaming]

I devised this to pull my steering wheel. It is assembled under the wheel with the cut out encasing the shaft. Then use a two 'finger' puller. I leave the castle nut on at least half way, the find a bolt that will drop into the nut and the shaft. Put a good center punch mark on the head of the bolt so the puller will not wander. Pull it "tight" then give it a good rap with a good hammer. Tighten again and the 2nd rap should break it loose. 

 

[MBF]

Paul - I have the wheel off.  I'm asking about removing the column/box assembly w/o removing the floor panels.   I used a bearing puller and and old piece of radiator hose to cushion the neck of the steering wheel with a two arm puller.   Came off easily.

[Merle Coggins]

Yes, you will have to disconnect the drag link form the pitman arm, or pull the pitman arm off the gear box with the drag link still attached. Then I wonder how high you'd have to jack it up  to be able to slide it out the bottom. I suppose it's worth a try. Maybe if you can angle it forward, over the top of the axle you could have enough room to pull it that way. What do you have to loose but a little time. If it doesn't go that way then you'll have to pull the floor plates.

 

Good luck,

Merle

[Desotodav]

I agree with Merle's comments. I recall having a hard time trying to twist and turn the complete steering box around in order to get enough clearance to get it to pull out around everything else in that area - but then my steering box is on a different side to yours! I hope it goes well for you Mike.

[ggdad1951]

How did it clean up?

[MBF]

Cleaned up well-and full of grease!.  My wheel came off pretty easily.  This one seems a lot tighter than the one that's in the truck.  I couldn't adjust the play out of mine.  If I recall when I got it the box was dry and had probably been run like that long before I bought it in '95 or so.  It holds grease, but I've swapped out everything except the worm & steering shaft and still can't get the play out of it.  I'll bet the worm is worn from being run dry.  Hoping this new box makes a big difference Mark.   Mike

[HanksB3B]

It will make a big difference for sure.  Get used to removing/installing the floor plates.  It won't be the last time you do it.  Are they rust/rot free or do they need repair ? Once the floor plates are removed the box and column can come out of the bottom of the truck without jack stands if ai remember.

 

Once the box is out you'll have the chance to get it as good as possible.  In thread # 9 there printable shims and a cover plate gasket.  Be very careful with the shims when you take yours apart carefully separate them (they can be re-used).  A good sign is if you have all five shims installed when it was built (it means no one has messed with your box) It is the removal of shims (one at a time) that tightens the steering.  Measure the thickness and you'll be surprised such small dimension has an effect on such a Big Truck (If my memory serves me well, some are .002 and others are .005 thick) Drafting Vellum makes for strong paper shims if you need to add a shim. 

Hope these posts and any others you find on the Forum help.

 

http://p15-d24.com/topic/19395-steering-box/

 

http://p15-d24.com/topic/20416-steering-box/

 

http://p15-d24.com/topic/20328-add-a-zerk-fitting-to-your-steering-box/?hl=%2Bzerk+%2Bfitting+%2Bsteering+%2Bbox

 

Hank 

Edited November 14, 2013 by HanksB3B

[MBF]

Thanks.  My floors are very solid, and I've had them out once to replace the anti rattle strips between them.  I'm just trying to avoid doing that again if I don't have to.  Yes-all of the shims were in the box.  A couple of years ago I removed the thinnest shim (put it in an envelope in the glove compartment) and replaced the sector shaft and bushings.  It was better, but I still had excessive play in the box that cannot be adjusted out.  What I suspect has happened is that the box was run dry by the previous owner (back in the 90's or before) and the adjustment tightened down on excessively in an attempted to "tighten up the box".  I have a good box from a '52 but I didn't want to go through the hassle of installing the later cross member brace that is needed to mount that style box in a 49 chassis.  I was going to send my box out to have it rebuilt over the winter when Mark came upon his parts cache.  I bought a good box from him, and I'm in the process of removing the old one.  If the box can be removed with the wheel off by sliding it through the bottom I''d like to go that route.  I was hoping someone had done this before so that I wouldn't end up taking the floor section out and then realizing it didn't need to be done.

[NiftyFifty]

I'm taking my truck right down this spring, is there a good swap for the steering boxes in these trucks? Possibly a powerd box?

[MBF]

I've answered my own question.  Yes, it can be done very easily with the pitman arm left on the box.  You need to jack up the frame of the truck and relieve the front suspension.  If this works with the 48-50 box with the cast mounting bracket, it will be even easier with the later styled boxes.

[RodFru2u]

What type of material did you use for the anti rattle strips ? I am starting to get all the hardware together to secure the flapping floorboards in my truck. Thanks for the info, Rod

[MBF]

I had some flat rubber in a roll about 1" wide.

[RodFru2u]

Thanks for that information, I know where  I can pick up some flat rubber in sheets. Do you know about how thick ? I would guess not too think to distort the floorboards. Thanks again for the anti rattle info, Rod

[HanksB3B]

I used Gorilla Tape seemed to work fine but I still don't know where that squeek is coming from (not my floorboards).

 

Hank 

[RodFru2u]

Thanks all, I'll try both the tape and rubber. I see which works best for me, Thanks again for the information, Rod

[ggdad1951]

if you use rubber you will need to make sure to put holes in it someplace so the bolts hold it in place, or it could walk out on you.

[Dave72dt]

I found some 1/8 x 3/4 sponge rubber weatherstrip, sticky one side, to use for a cowl to hood weatherstrip, at a parts house. That wouldn't move around and is wide enough to punch holes through for bolts.

[Jeff Balazs]

I got pretty extreme with mine. After the cab was painted I applied 3 coats of brush on bed liner to both sides of the floor and floor boards. Then a layer of Hushmat Ultra on top. The underside of the cab got a double layer of foil bubble wrap insulation. The top side got a lift out fitted mats of double layered foil insulation and then a fitted rubber floor mat. Works really well at quieting things down.....and should be much cooler in summer than a bare metal floor and floor mat.. I used all new fasteners and the floor boards can be removed or refitted in about 10 to 15 minutes.

 

Jeff