air conditioning.

[greg g]

Look up evaporative cooling, your question was answered in posts 43 and 45. (perhaps those folks are on your ignore list)

Same principle as why you sweat (maybe you don't) and why dogs pant.

[LAKOTA169]

My dad had one on his '51 Desoto wagon when we took a trip to California. We found out, that if you pulled the cord and let go so that it snapped back fast, water would be thrown on whoever was sitting next to it. It also made it so damp (humid) inside the car, that they couldn't keep their cigarettes lit.

[michael.warshaw]

i wish their was a company that had ac for these plymouths.

[bamfordsgarage]

...

[michael.warshaw]

...

great

[rockable]

read what you will believe who you may...applcation is ALL the difference...currently to my knowledge there are but two units on the market today that are MOPAR compatable per say due to the BULGE on the firewall center...units must have proper room for incoming hose connection, top defroster ducting and not interfere with the cowl vent..if you think for a second none of this matter...have fun...!! I have installed the generic units by the top brand names not dedicated to Mopar..lots and lots of mods to keep all items funcitonal..doable but quite time involved ..do not let them talk you into a electronic controller headache..!! they are proprietory software..but of course if you like shelling out a few hundred everytime it burbs..go for it..analog is totally compatable with most factory control panels with factory original knobs etc...

have fun ...do your research...

And who would those two manufacturers be?

[p24-1953]

so are you sticking with the 6 volt? or are you upgrading to 12 volt to run your radio and extra speakers? you can make a a/c system fit, you just have to be willing to a: either see it below the dash or b: give up the stock radio, defrost and heat.

[Plymouthy Adams]

stock radio only and only because of the positive ground...you can have both 6 and 12 on a single dynamo and have the best of both worlds...

[michael.warshaw]

i dont know if i should stay 6 or 12

[Flatie46]

I thought you were restoring your car correct, as in to be judged at shows?

[jd52cranbrook]

I can't believe this.

[55 Fargo]

Hey another BrainFart, what is going on now, I also thought Mike was after a true restoration to factory OEM specs.

[55 Fargo]

Hey Bamford, great idea, read it in the morning, use it as a sunscreen in the afternnon, and cover up with it as blanket at night, this be my kinda AC.

Heck I still admire you for the long hauls you have done with your car, hope to hook up with you sometime, and check out your cross country machine...Fred

[Captain Neon]

With all the shtuff you think you need for your car (thumping, pounding, bumping and grinding sounds, AC that causes chills, etc.), you should convert to 12v. It's only money, and it's not mine so I really don't care.

[dezeldoc]

Boy i am disappointed in you guys! i am sure everyone is familiar with the factory 4/60 air unit. just get yourself one of those and you are set, 6/12 volt it don't matter works with both!

Factory 4/60= Roll down all the windows and go 60 miles per hour and instant A/C:D

All kidding aside, you can just get a heat and cool only unit and put it in the trunk and plumb it that way, and run a couple ducts up front. it should work fine as small as the cabbin is.

Edited June 3, 2010 by dezeldoc

[michael.warshaw]

thanks dezel, well since im doing 230 engine, and od tranny, i dont mid throwing in ac so when i drive the car im nice and cool.

Edited June 3, 2010 by michael.warshaw

[blueskies]

A felllow was talking about adding air to a P15 and using the shell

of the heater (the square box style) to hide the condenser or

whatever.....and make a disguised outlet into the car. Might work.

I thought about doing this with my car. I planned to take an extra heater box and use it to extend the original box to accommodate AC coil in-line with the heater coil. I don't see any reason why this wouldn't work just fine.

Pete

[p24-1953]

i was trying that also, but found i couldnt get the blower to be strong enough to realy cool the car. i also found that like the heater or defrost it would only be blowing on your feet

[greg g]

Some facts

this thread was started in January, since then,

swamp coolers and their sources were covered.

one or more aftermarket modern AC system solutions were posted with links.

evaporative cooling was discussed at least twice.

several considerations were discussed about the problems that may need to be dealt with regarding mounting an AC in a P15.

a member posted his solution and his satisfaction with an installation in a later model Plymouth with similar mechanical systems and under hood space.

A member referernced Louman Earl's posting of his AC in his P15

Swamp coolers were discussed again

And a dead horse is still being flogged by continuing a discussion regarding a vehicle that is not road worthy, so its interior temperature is immaterial to further consideration until and when you have something to put an AC in and something to power it with.

Please re read the posts that have been rendered to your attention on this matter, then let us know what you have decided, what you plan to buy,if you are going to have to change your electrical system, who you are going to have do the installation and electrical system change over. And whether any of those items address your concern about the engine temperature gauge climbing when you sit at lights or drive slowly in high ambient temperatures. But you might like to factor in that this will be an occasional use vehicle, driven evenings and weekends for 4 to 6 months a year and you can make the simple choice that when it's hot out you can drive another vehicle.

Edited June 4, 2010 by greg g

[PatS....]

i wish their was a company that had ac for these plymouths.

http://www.vintageair.com/

[PatS....]

i wish their was a company that had ac for these plymouths.

Other than some common ignition and the odd mechanical thing, NOBODY has ANYTHING for these Plymouths.

Kinda like asking who makes picture tubes for 1948 Televisions, or who makes 78 RPM records. Nobody does. And they never will.

That's why websites like this exist. To help owners figure out how to do repairs, installs, updates, find parts etc.

Like dirt, they don't make 'em anymore.

As for A/C...if you were to take a brand new car that did not come from the factory with A/C and try to retrofit it, it would be a HUGE job and very expensive. It's nothing like installing an aftermarket "stereo".

SO, if you want A/C in your Plymouth, it's possible, it's done every day, BUT it's complicated (relatively), involved and, if you are having it done by a shop, VERY expensive.

A "kit" is only a collection of parts that, if you are handy and can problem solve, will end up as an air conditioning system.

It will not be a bolt in, turn it on feel cold air. That won't happen. There WILL be glitches...that's guaranteed. You have to understand this.

If you buy an A/C "kit" be SURE you get someone who has installed hundreds of retrofit systems...hundreds...or you will be getting calls to solve problems you have no idea how to begin solving. HUNDREDS

So, the key is to understand nobody is making much for these cars and what IS made usually still requires installer knowledge and problem solving skills to get the job done. If not you, then you have to be sure that whoever you hire has done HUNDREDS of whatever you need done...and check the guys out.

What would you think if the electrician or plumber you hired to redo you home called you with an installation problem and the job was on HOLD untill YOU found the solution??

I would be pretty pi$$ed and would run them off the job.

Hire people who do not have to call you except to say "it's ready, bring a check"

Edited June 3, 2010 by PatS....

[Plymouthy Adams]

looks like a prime opportunity to start a business...personally I have no difficulty installing an aftermarket AC using about any component at hand so its a mote point to me if they are available in kit form or not..if one needs just a bolt on he needs to buy a car with bolt on already available..gee..where is the fun in the "bolting on"

[randroid]

Michael,

The First Law of Thermodynamics is that energy can be neither crated nor destroyed; it can only be transferred. Heat is energy, agreed? Water is 200 times as dense as air and has the capacity to transfer heat four times as efficiently as air, so because the ambient air coming into the confined space in your car has energy transferred out at a rate of 800 times that of when you rely only a cracked window the added moisture literally transfers the heat out of the ambient air before it gets to you. Their cost of operation is only the water needed to refill the reservoir and the energy necessary to pull a short lanyard (string) that spins the mesh through which the air flows. The efficiency is dependent upon the amount of air flowing through it (the speed you're driving) verses the relative humidity of the ambient air.

This is the third time this has been explained to you in the last few posts. We are here to help you and others and ourselves but please don't confuse us with your paralegals; we'll tell you everything you need to know (at least that of which we are capable) but you MUST actually think for yourself. You won a Juris Doctorate and passed the NY Bar so you can't be stupid. Drop your guard, get your hands dirty, and think for yourself. It can be an enlightening experience. Take it from someone who's had to learn that on his own.

-Randy

[DonaldSmith]

From the previous long article:

"Evaporative cooling is a physical phenomenon in which evaporation of a liquid, typically into surrounding air, cools an object or a liquid in contact with it. Latent heat describes the amount of heat that is needed to evaporate the liquid; this heat comes from the liquid itself and the surrounding gas and surfaces."

So when the water evaporates, it takes heat out of the air.

But it won't work where there's high humidity in the air, since there is little or no evaporation.