grey beard Posted October 19, 2009 Report Share Posted October 19, 2009 Drove my truck most of the summer without a headliner - just insulation in there - looked terrible. Finally got time to get her done. My headliner and all the inside panels are ABS shower stall sort or stuff from Lowes - $26 bucks a sheet. Took two sheets. Then I painted it dark brown with Krylon Fusion textured paint and put plastic door edge trim on all the raw edges that show - sorta' gives it a finished look. I have less than $100 in the whole interior. Hardest part was getting that one-piece headliner up in place. I'm happy . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted October 19, 2009 Report Share Posted October 19, 2009 Looks pretty good Dave. Attaboy. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintrader Posted October 19, 2009 Report Share Posted October 19, 2009 Looks real good Dave. Does this mean you can use Scrubbing Bubbles to clean your interior? Dutch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanOlson Posted October 19, 2009 Report Share Posted October 19, 2009 Very nice. Makes a huge difference in noise doesn't it? Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJs 1948 Posted October 20, 2009 Report Share Posted October 20, 2009 Looks really nice Dave. Gotta like the armrests!! Next summer will be some trips with the truck. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1955 plymouth Posted October 20, 2009 Report Share Posted October 20, 2009 Real nice work! The best part is that you were able to do it yourself for just a few bucks. I really enjoy that about this Old car thing. unless you are going bonkers about full factory resto, you really can just go with the flow, or whatever else you have lying around. good stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big50Dodge Posted October 22, 2009 Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 Looks good Dave. What did you use to cut the curves into the plastic shower material ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grey beard Posted October 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 To cut the ABS board, I used a combination of saber saw and tin snips. The neat thing about this system is that when you have the piece cut out, the edges do not have to be perfect because the door edge trim I ussd to cover raw edges hides the rough cuts. I also clamped some of the pieces in my vise and dressed them with a 4-inch grinder - kinda dusty - just whatever works for you. Allan Parkhurst was able to cut out his rear cab piece that fits aorund the windows and install it in one piece. I was not good enough to do that, but didn't like the three piece look of some with he big seam down each side between the corner windows and the center windows. So I made mine in two pieces with the seam centered with the back window - much easier to install that way than all in one piece. Getting this stuff behind the rubber was pretty easy, using just a putty knife and a brake spoon. The real trick to using this material is the Krylon Fusion paint made to go onto plastic. I just wiped it down with lacuer thinner to get a little "tooth" and sprayed it - covers nicely, and it's available in lots of colors. Almost every good hardware store carries this stuff. It is a rough textured paint that covered the white board very well with no primer or undercoat. This stuff is cheap, durable, available anywhere and pretty user friendly. I thought a long time about how to do this job, and am very pleased with the results I got - looks better than I had hoped. The upholstery washers I used on my sheet metal screws are also available at True Value type hardware stores - makes the job look pretty factory-like, IMHO. Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelOkie Posted October 23, 2009 Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 Nice going on the finish work. I am at the point of taking it on, and your inside cab picture explains a few things about the fitment of the finish panels, as I had absolutely nothing left aside a few bits of panel board stuck under some finish washers, and button fastners stuck here and there throughout the truck, thus I have no patterns for anything. Having been there and done that with a Cartouche panel set for my 46 Ford pickup, I am not inclined to pay nearly $400.00 for what amounts to thin painted card board with a few feet of windlace thrown in, (and as I seriously doubt I can make it on to Merle Coggins Christmas list and come out with the really good factory made interior), I will definately be trying other options. It is always helpful to see what someone else has been able to do. Joel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coW52Dodge Posted October 23, 2009 Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 Looks great, Dave. Are there patterns out there to copy? Mine has no skin on the inside whatsoever.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Gaspard Posted October 23, 2009 Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 Reg, that was your cue! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted October 23, 2009 Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 If I have to tell him Reg...I get a percentage.... 48D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lugnut123 Posted October 24, 2009 Report Share Posted October 24, 2009 Is there patterns out there for a B-3-C ??? Clue us in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reg Evans Posted October 24, 2009 Report Share Posted October 24, 2009 Yes, I sell the patterns. Thanks guys! I just read this thread this morning. PM me if interested in a set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lugnut123 Posted November 25, 2009 Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 Where can you get the trim that goes along the edge of the new door panels? The little c channel type trim. I've been lookin alover town and cann't find any. What's it's proper name ? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted November 25, 2009 Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 How did you attach the seat belt to the cab, on the wall, behind the door. Does that require a hole and a patch job? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted November 25, 2009 Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 Excellent job Dave! What did you use to Re-cover the arm rest and how did you do it? Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grey beard Posted November 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 (edited) Okay, lotsa' questions here. I'll do my best to answer all. First, the door edge molding comes from Craft Supply in Utah, found on the internet. You can google it or call them direct at 800-551-8876. They have this stuff in many colors. I used flat black, but of course you could install it and then paint it with your panel paint, all at the same time. They sell it as door edge molding, and it comes in 5-ft lengths. I used twenty feet of the stuff to go around all my panels, but really would not have needed it on all the sides of the two kick panels. You may be able to get away with fifteen feet - three lengths. You pick your own color. I got my second arm rest from J J on this forum in a swap of some sort, mebby a year or so ago. Painted both stock arm rests with the same Krylon Fusion paint I used on the white ABS paneling. This stuff is made to stick to vinyl, so it is perfect for the job. Just scrub your paint surfaces down with lacquer thinner and keep your finger prints off till it is painted. Works very well. Dries a flat brown. Available in black, too, as well as other colors. I also have patterns for this stuff. Decided to make my headliner all in one piece. It slides into a slot in the cab just above the sun visors. To get it into the slot the whole way, I had to use a carpenter's wide pry bar and releive this slot just a scotch or two, then it slid right in. When it went in, the back of the headliner panel snapped over the seam pinch weld that is just above the rear windows, and was under a lot of tension - so much that I did hot need any screws in it. It is spring-loaded into place between these two cab body spots, and fits very nicely. Hardest pieces to fit were the two around the back windows. I have just one screw in each of these panels since they also are pretty much held in place by the window rubbers. You'all must understand that these panels fit in place so tightly - headliner and back panels - that I likely could not get them back out without breaking them. Lastly, those two small pieces that go above the two doors are real fussy to fit at the back, where they meet the rear cab panels. I had a pattern, but it was not perfect. I finally found that if I got the front part right, I could slip this end into place above the "A" piller, and then mark the bottom where it met the door opening, using a large magic marker. I had to make at least three of them on each side before I got the fit good enough to suit me. I used three screws with upholstery washers on each of these two pieces. My two sun visors come from a late model nineties chbby van. They work fine and look okay but will not swing outboard due to the angle of the mount in the cab roof. Much bigger than he original visors. Got an extra drivers' side original visor if anyone needs it. It takes two pieces of this paneling, no matter how carefully you lay it out. I tried to get it all out of one, but it just wasn't possible. ABS stuff costs like $26 a sheet at Lowes. I think this recipe is pretty slick - and very affordable. Don't know why anyone would want anything else. It is really nice and durable. I got one scratch in the paint on my driver's door trim panel from climbing in and out with tools to do the headliner. I just used a Q-tip with a little paint sprayed into the lid, and touched it right up. When it dried, it blended in perfectly, since it is a flat finish anyhow, so it is very easy to repair if someone does abuse it. Don't forget to use the "peel 'n seal" sound deadener and the foil bubble insulation - also both from Lowes. Makes a real quiet cab. JMHO Good Luck Edited November 25, 2009 by grey beard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallytoo Posted November 25, 2009 Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 looks fantastic, dave. you must have some patience, too. wally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lugnut123 Posted November 25, 2009 Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 thanks grey beard great job and info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.