Drive Shaft

[LAKOTA169]

I need universals on my '37. I found a local shop that might be able to convert it to modern universals, but he needs to see the shaft first to be able to quote a price. What is involved in removing the shaft? I know there is a flange at both ends with 4 studs/nuts. Are the studs removable so that the shaft will just drop down? Will I be able to reinstall the shaft as is after he looks at it? I still have about a month of "cruising time" before I put the car up for the winter. I'm worried that if I remove the shaft, the old universals will fall apart and I won't be able to drive the car. The shaft repair is to be a winter project when I have enough spare money set aside.

[Jim Saraceno]

Are the studs removable so that the shaft will just drop down?

1. disconnect the rear shaft (it has bolts and will slide down)

2. pull up all the floor panels

3. disconnect the front end (it has studs)

4. pull back and the shaft will come right out.

Will I be able to reinstall the shaft as is after he looks at it?

If you are that worried about the universals, you really shouldn't be driving it. Just removing the drive shaft is not going to make anything happen.

Chances are, the only thing he needs to see is the bolt pattern so he can match it. Other than that he should only need the length and that can be measured while still in the car.

I may be missing something but why would you want to remove the shaft, have the guy look at it now, reinstall it THEN do the same thing this winter? Why don't you just drive it until winter THEN pull the shaft and replace it?

[Young Ed]

Jim is it really required to pull the floor boards? I agree if its that much work I'd wait and do it once. But if its just the 8 bolts from underneath I could see doing it and putting it back in until winter. BTW Ed if you do pull it and are going to put it back in mark the orintation and which end is which so you can put it back in the same

[desoto1939]

Jim:

I have several of the Detroit Univerals kits and housings. The ones that you have in your car are probly the originals and have lasted 60+ years. Going modern is an option but since you have the original shaft just replace with new detroits.

You do not have to take the flor board up to get to the flange. This is a four bolt on the flanges fron and rear. To insure that you match up the drive line on the same spot then mark each end with some tape or paint on each flange then you can be sure that you are putting the shaft back in the same location, but in reality this should not be a problem since the shaft is balanced.

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[Jim Saraceno]

really required to pull the floor boards?

Well I'm not sure if it is required but I guessing it would be a lot easier. If you have a lift, it might be worth a try.

I have several of the Detroit Univerals kits and housings. The ones that you have in your car are probly the originals and have lasted 60+ years. Going modern is an option but since you have the original shaft just replace with new detroits.

You lost me here. The old types were ball and trunion joints. The newer are cross and roller joints. All I remember is it was difficult to find anyone in the St. Louis area that would work on the ball and trunion AND it was less expensive to get a whole new modern driveshaft built than the cost of parts. If you are going to rebuild it yourself you'll need a 20 ton press and have the ability to get the trunion centered within .006" if I remember correctly. Then you still need to find a place that will balance it for you.

[Young Ed]

I've pulled many of these driveshafts just in the garage with the cars on stands. Its quite easy. Granted none of them were a 30s model. I did dads yellow 46 pickup after it was loaded onto a car dolly. Just slide under and pulled it. The one thats actually the trickiest is dads 51 convert. There is a big X member in the frame that gets in the way.

[Jim Saraceno]

BTW... Here's information about u-joints and propeller shafts (trunion)... http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/056/cover.htm

[TodFitch]

I need universals on my '37. I found a local shop that might be able to convert it to modern universals, but he needs to see the shaft first to be able to quote a price. What is involved in removing the shaft? I know there is a flange at both ends with 4 studs/nuts. Are the studs removable so that the shaft will just drop down? Will I be able to reinstall the shaft as is after he looks at it? I still have about a month of "cruising time" before I put the car up for the winter. I'm worried that if I remove the shaft, the old universals will fall apart and I won't be able to drive the car. The shaft repair is to be a winter project when I have enough spare money set aside.

At least on my 1933 PD, both the front and the rear ends of the driveshaft are held with bolts. No studs used.

Also on my 1933 you can do the entire job from underneath, no reason to pull the floor boards. And, if you are not too thick about the middle, you can do it without putting the car on stands.

I'd not modify the original driveshaft if I were you, simply get a new one made from scratch. As mentioned previously in this thread, all they should need is the flange dimensions and the length.

Basically this is what I have done since I did not have the desire or cash at the time my U-joints went out back in 1978 to get new housing for the Detroit ball and trunnion style. Been running the "new style" drive shaft since then but still have the original (now refurbished) that I can install in just a few minutes if I need to.

[Jim Saraceno]

So, let me ask those of you who have replaced your original driveshaft with modern ones. Did you have problems getting the nuts on the studs on the front end?

I could get neither a socket nor a wrench on those nuts because of clearance issues. I did the final tightening with a chisel and hammer!

Also on my 1933 you can do the entire job from underneath, no reason to pull the floor boards. And, if you are not too thick about the middle, you can do it without putting the car on stands.

You're a much better man that I Todd. I can't even squeeze my chest under the car to get to the thick in the middle section.

[TodFitch]

So, let me ask those of you who have replaced your original driveshaft with modern ones. Did you have problems getting the nuts on the studs on the front end?

I could get neither a socket nor a wrench on those nuts because of clearance issues. I did the final tightening with a chisel and hammer!

As I recall, I tightened things up using open end wrenches. I have nuts and bolts rather than nuts and studs there so that might make a difference. I do remember that there is far less clearance with modern U-Joints than with the original style.

You're a much better man that I Tod. I can't even squeeze my chest under the car to get to the thick in the middle section.

It could also be that my 1933 sits a bit higher off the ground than your 1935. I do have to work my way in as the battery box/holder is pretty low on the drive side and the muffler is lower than it should be on the passenger side.

[desoto1939]

I have the miller tool that is used to push the pin out of the ball and also the bench vise that you sit the ball on to push the pin out of the ball.

If you need to borrow please contact me.

rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

[LAKOTA169]

Thanks for the replys. The main reason I wanted the newer style U-joints was I couldn't find anybody who could install the original style. Plus the price for the old style was around $155 - $185 plus shipping from websites. From what I had read on this forum, the people were paying around $400 for the updated driveshaft. So for parts, shipping and labor, they would cost about the same. But, in the event that something went wrong in the future, it would be cheaper to repair with modern u-joints. Not being familiar with this type, I just wasn't sure what would happen if I removed the shaft. I've got about 3 weeks of driving time before I have to put the car up (just hate not being able to take the car out). By then, it will be to cold and damp for these old bones to be crawling around under the car in the driveway (it's hard enough now in warm weather). The place I want to take the shaft to does work on racecar driveshafts (among other things).

Ed

[steveplym]

As I recall, I tightened things up using open end wrenches. I have nuts and bolts rather than nuts and studs there so that might make a difference. I do remember that there is far less clearance with modern U-Joints than with the original style.

It could also be that my 1933 sits a bit higher off the ground than your 1935. I do have to work my way in as the battery box/holder is pretty low on the drive side and the muffler is lower than it should be on the passenger side.

I used open end wrenches on mine too Tod. I went to modern last winter and it has driven great. All I had to do to make the nuts easier to put on is to put the trans in neutral and after starting the nuts I was able to tighten them when I spun the shaft around to get to the other two nuts.

[Don Coatney]

If you remove the driveshaft with the car resting on the wheels use caution as the emergency brake will not work with the driveshaft removed.

When I was fifteen years old I had a 1957 Desoto hemi and I foolishly removed the driveshaft with the car resting on wood blocks under the tires. I needed to rotate the driveshaft to expose the bolts and once I did this the car moved and rolled off the blocks. I was able to squeeze out from under the car in those days. and the only thing hurt was my pride.

[Plymouthy Adams]

I can picture that now..sheepishly looking left and right to see if anyone noticed...its a good thing man has a good record for living through the learning process..show me aman who has never had an experience simialr to this and I will show you a man who had never done anything..

[Don Coatney]

Tim;

You are correct on all counts. I dont know how some folks survive if they are too busy to work on, read, or learn anything.

[Jim Saraceno]

I can picture that now..sheepishly looking left and right to see if anyone noticed..

Spoken like a true guy.... The four step process of most guys...

1. Do something stupid.

2. Did anyone see me?

3. Am I hurt?

4. How can I hide this from my wife?

[Niel Hoback]

Here's how it really goes;

1. Did something stupid

2. No one saw me

3. Yep, hurt pretty good.

4. Can't really hide it from the wife, the first thing I did was go in the house and say "c'mon, we're goin' to the hospital".

[LAKOTA169]

I contacted Joe McGinnis about one of his driveshafts. Pretty sure I'm going to order one from him. Will have to wait a little while as I have some big bills coming due that have to be paid first.