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I just got a 1948 Chrysler New Yorker club coupe...This sight is awesome

my story: My Grandpa bought this car in 1970 it sat inside his garage then some other buildings...he was always too busy with earlier street rods so it just sat and sat..He passed away in 94 and it was given to my great uncle who just gave it to me..

It hadn't been started in 30+ years so I was really nervous but with a little work she started right up...now she purrs like a kitten... I am currently going through all the brakes..new wheel cylinder in the front...now i need shoes for the front they are no good...so if anyone knows where i can get some it would be greatly appreciated

I do love this car...i'm not that mechanically inclined since i am only 22 and i can already tell this sight is going to be a great help

p.s. if anyone has a descent grill, front and rear bumpers, that they would be willing to part with that would be really awesome, mine are long gone

Seth

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Look for a commercial equipment brake shop in your area. (you might want to add that info to your fignature or to the header area throught the user cp)

these places should be able to remove the old friction material and attach new either by bonding or with rivets. You can get new stuff from Kantor and other sources but if you can get the old shoes relined, it should be more economical. I see you came over from the HAMB, between these tow sources you should be able to get a lot of information about your project. The imperial club website also has a lot of good info that will transfer to your Chyrsler, check out the repair section there.

You have a great looking starting place. Welcome and good luck.

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Hey mate, welcome to the forum!

Congrats on the new ride (and the work it took to get it running!). A few good links to sites for your car are:

http://imperialclub.com/Part/Lit/4655Numbers/index.htm

tells you what parts are swappable with other years

http://imperialclub.com/Articles/literature.htm

will have links to master technition books that tell you how to do brakes, tips for common probs, etc...They were published in the 40's and 50's for Chrys. mechanics, has illustrations to help us newbies. =)

http://robertsmotorparts.com/catalog.html

http://www.oldmoparparts.com/

www.kanter.com

Those places have parts to keep her running. Kanter is all new stuff, and i think roberts and oldmopar are a combo or new and NOS. There's more sites out there with stuff too...

One word of advice, if you plan on keeping your car for years to come, think ahead about consequences of what alterations or modifications will have 10-15 years out. A prior owner to my car installed seat belts which caused water from the road to splash up and start to cause rust in the floor pans. Also, be careful where you put parts, how you store them, and caution when removing them and installing them. No need to rush. Learned the hard way, and as you'll find, its much easier to take your time with a part, then to fix an error or try to find a replacement!

Enjoy cruising round in your new ride!

p.s. Be careful with brake lining and headliners...abestos...You're future children and grandkids will thank you in 40 years if you spend the 25 bucks for a dust mask!:cool:

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Seth,

Welcome to the club. Looks like you have a great car to start with. TAfter llong at the pictures the bumpers seem to just need to be replated along with the grill. Look into this before buying unless you can get better quality at a cheap price. The shiping is going to be high with the weight and size.

Go on ebay and start looking for parts also join a car club and start going to car shows and local fle markets. Start searching the web. The Walter P chrysler club is a good club to join and is specifically set for all of the Chrysler vehicles and this is a large club and they have a monthly newsletter and you can also put an advetisement for parts wanted.

I have a 39 Desoto which was the next division of chrysler that was just priced a little bit lower than the Chryslers.

If you can get to Hershey in the fall in October this is the largest flea maret with approx 6-10 thousand vendors sell all kinds of antique car parts.

Keep posting what you are doing with the car and ask lots of questions. It is nice to see that you are interested in the hobby. Enjoy the car.

rich HArtung

desoto1939@aol.

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Welcome Aboard! LOVE THOSE WHEELS! Man what a baseball cap...

My Best Advice To You Is Listen To These Guys And Ask Every Question You Have Before Turning That Wrench. And Get A Shop Manual For Your Car...a Very Valuable Tool.

Despite the age listed in my profile...i am actually 29, started working on classics when I was about 22, a 57 chevy...and man I learned alot from my mistakes! and PAID for them too hahaha...

:)

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I'm in a car club we meet ever Saturday and they have been a tremendous help...I have a shop manuel and i just put in a new rear window last week...i couldn't have done it without my manual..lol.....i'm a little weary about the fluid drive transmission...i drove it twice once with new rear brakes and the second time right after i rebuilt the front...it went then it just stopped the front brakes just locked up and wouldn't let me go foward so i put it in reverse and drove it back to the shop...my point was the transmission never shifted although it seemed like it had enough RPMs to make it shift,,,I really don't know...i could have had it in the wrong gear also...the wiring is horrible but i'm going to try and make it a few weeks before i try and tackle a new wiring harness...I just want to drive it...NOW

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go to the truck board and look at the post by Truck o matic, there is a schemativ drawing of the wiring for the semi automatic trans. Your brake problem is most likely a plugged relief hole in the MC. Pull the cap off the MC and look in the bottom of the reservoir with a flash light. there should be two holes visible. On is the fluid inlet for the piston chamber and the other is to allow fluid to retur when the pedal is released. If you don't see two probe around a bit with a piece of mechanics wire and try to find the hole it should be about an eighth inch in front or behind the other. If you can see both just clean them out with the wire. Also make sureThe MC's cap vents are clear and that the reservoir is not over filled, leave 1/4 to 1/2 inch of air space at the top of the chamber.

Make sure all the wiring is preset and tight and clean in the trans circuits. Study the stuff on the imperial site repair section and go to ALL PAr and read up on the Semi auto's just use the site search and type in transmissions.

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If you haven't been to---Go to the site- "Post War Heavy Metal 46-48 Chryslers". It's specifically for your car! I'm also an owner of a couple C39 eight cylinder chryslers-one a 46 NewYorker 3 passenger coupe-kinda like yours but missing the back seat!

Bob

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hi ,

i have almost exactly the same car, black 48 new yorker 6 passenger coupe with sunvisor !! 7082155 chassis number BUT mine is in much better condition than yours ,lucky for me as i am about 3000miles from the nearest parts supplier!! If you need any help pls do not hesitate to ask me ,sending pictures ,etc is sometimes a big help! Welcome to the wonderful world of the beautiful chryslers!!(apologies to our junior sister marques)william (in London,England)

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yeah i'm about 35 minutes north of indianapolis...i have a pretty stupid question...i took the new yorker out for a spin today got the brakes working...well i really hope so..lol...anyway where is third gear....it is a fluid drive spitfire 8...i know reverse is push toward the steering wheel first is up second is down??? if down is 3rd i have a big problem because it seems it is reving way to high and it's really high rpm's.....also i noticed i have a leek in my water pump right were it bolts up next to the block...can i just get away replacing the gasket and where do i get a gasket???this fluid drive thing is really iffy....it has never ran hot until today when i noticed i ran out of antifreeze...:eek:

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yeah i'm about 35 minutes north of indianapolis...i have a pretty stupid question...i took the new yorker out for a spin today got the brakes working...well i really hope so..lol...anyway where is third gear....it is a fluid drive spitfire 8...i know reverse is push toward the steering wheel first is up second is down??? if down is 3rd i have a big problem because it seems it is reving way to high and it's really high rpm's.....also i noticed i have a leek in my water pump right were it bolts up next to the block...can i just get away replacing the gasket and where do i get a gasket???this fluid drive thing is really iffy....it has never ran hot until today when i noticed i ran out of antifreeze...:eek:

This is how your trans works, reverse is up and pulled toward you the driver, then low range is at the top, push out toward windsheild, like 2nd for a 3 spd, high range is out and down, like 3rd gear on a 3 spd.

Place the shifter in high range, let foot off clutch, car won't stall with fluid drive , take off, at about 15 to 20 mphlet foot off gas, trans if working will upshift to 4th, then keep driving............

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A couple of the waterpump bolts go into the water jacket and may nee thread sealer on them to stop the weeping.

As noted above the trans is a semiautomaitc 4 speed two gears in low range and two gears in high range, generally low range is ot used except for when the car is heavily loaded or descending steep hills. So reverse and high are the general use selections. the clutch is really only needed when selectig between drive ranges and or reverse. Once a range is selected driving can be done with brake an gas. Be sure to set your parking brake of chock the wheels if parked on a grade as ther is no engine braking when not running.

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A couple of the waterpump bolts go into the water jacket and may nee thread sealer on them to stop the weeping.

As noted above the trans is a semiautomaitc 4 speed two gears in low range and two gears in high range, generally low range is ot used except for when the car is heavily loaded or descending steep hills. So reverse and high are the general use selections. the clutch is really only needed when selectig between drive ranges and or reverse. Once a range is selected driving can be done with brake an gas. Be sure to set your parking brake of chock the wheels if parked on a grade as ther is no engine braking when not running.

Good advice...

I always have used a wheel chock-always, the parking brake handle ratchet pawls can let loose because of wear and you'll hear a pop---away goes the car-bye bye! I've seen the results on a 1942 DeSoto 3 pass cpe. and a 1950 NewYorker. Better safe than sorry. It's only a possible issue on the fluid drive cars.

Bob

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