adam_knox Posted March 17, 2009 Report Posted March 17, 2009 Hey gang! So got spring fever and pulled the car out today. Thought, why not put all new brake cylinders in the 49 Chrysler! Umm, until Murphy's Law kicked in. I couldn't get the brake drum hub off, I was hammering around the edges and then part of the edge chipped off! Sigh... I'm not the world's handiest guys with cars, but I've done drum brakes before...Maybe I've been doing it all wrong these last few years. Any tips or tricks would be appreciated. (Feel free to throw the most basic stuff at me, I pretty much taught myself, so who knows what I've missed!) Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 17, 2009 Report Posted March 17, 2009 first off..is that the dust cover still on the hub...this needs be removed to loosen and remove the nut and bearing..then adjust the shoe away from the drum if it still drags.. I sure hope you have not sprung the drum out of round..check this with a run out guage.. Quote
TodFitch Posted March 17, 2009 Report Posted March 17, 2009 I was going to suggest a wheel/drum puller. But then I see your photo is for a front wheel. So here goes for the front (rear is different): 1. Remove the dust cover (the stamped sheet metal thing about 1.5 inches in diameter. I use a screw driver working around the edge to walk it loose. 2. Remove cotter pin, castle nut and washer with the inside tab thingy (a technical term). 3. Grab drum and rock it back and forth to loosen the outside wheel bearing. 4. Remove outside wheel bearing roller assembly. 5. Pull off drum being careful not to damage inside seal on the any sharp edges. I suppose you will next want instructions on putting it back on: Only trick there is to tighten the nut until the bearings are dragging slightly then back off to the next place on the castle nut where you can install the NEW cotter pin. As I said, rear are different. So when you are ready for that post again. Quote
oldmopar Posted March 17, 2009 Report Posted March 17, 2009 Read the link below it will cover the basics http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar/framesets/wipbrakeframeset.html Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 17, 2009 Report Posted March 17, 2009 IF you are careful the old trick to removing the inner bearing and the rear grease seal at the same time, without damage and ability to reuse, put the nut back on the spindle after removing the washer and cone bearing. slide drum forward and angle down. yank one good time..the nut will hit the bearing and pop out the grease seal all in one smooth action... Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 17, 2009 Report Posted March 17, 2009 step 2, get a shop manual:D Should have been step 1, but you bypassed it:eek: But, still don't hesitate to ask questions, someone will be happy to help:) Shel; I think step one should be keep the hammer in the tool box:eek: Quote
dezeldoc Posted March 17, 2009 Report Posted March 17, 2009 Not meaning to sound harsh, but if you cannot even get the drum off maybe you should have someone do the brakes for you or at least get someone who knows how, to help. This kind of thing scares me to know brakes and such are being done by people with little or no knowledge and my family is sharing the road with these cars. Quote
cwcars88 Posted March 17, 2009 Report Posted March 17, 2009 Don't forget to repack your bearings, this can be done by hand. The inner bearing can also be packed with out removing the seal, just takes more time. Quote
JIPJOBXX Posted March 17, 2009 Report Posted March 17, 2009 Well its to bad that you broke your drum. I might suggest that you make sure the brake adjustment is all the way in and then reinstall the tire with the rim. Then just shake it back and forth till it comes oft. The drum right now is locked in place by the brake shoes and so you will haft to spin the tire and then wobble it till it falls oft in your lap. Jon Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 17, 2009 Report Posted March 17, 2009 Don't forget to repack your bearings, this can be done by hand. The inner bearing can also be packed with out removing the seal, just takes more time. I dont think so? Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 17, 2009 Report Posted March 17, 2009 Well its to bad that you broke your drum. I might suggest that you make sure the brake adjustment is all the way in and then reinstall the tire with the rim. Then just shake it back and forth till it comes oft. The drum right now is locked in place by the brake shoes and so you will haft to spin the tire and then wobble it till it falls oft in your lap. Jon How can you do this without removing the cotter pin and the castelated nut from the spindle? Quote
dezeldoc Posted March 18, 2009 Report Posted March 18, 2009 Well its to bad that you broke your drum. I might suggest that you make sure the brake adjustment is all the way in and then reinstall the tire with the rim. Then just shake it back and forth till it comes oft. The drum right now is locked in place by the brake shoes and so you will haft to spin the tire and then wobble it till it falls oft in your lap. Jon Think about what you said for a minute, if you were able to bolt the tire and rim back on and wiggle it off , what would keep it from doing the same thing going down the road?? The hub it held on to the spindle by the bearings and the castle nut and cotter pin and the drums are riveted on to the hub. On some cars the drum will slide off the hub but is held on by the wheel, but not in this case. Quote
Don Jordan Posted March 18, 2009 Report Posted March 18, 2009 I know this is the rear drum but wouldn't it work for the front as well? Quote
RobertKB Posted March 18, 2009 Report Posted March 18, 2009 I know this is the rear drum but wouldn't it work for the front as well? Front and rear drum removal are very different beasts. Rear drums on the old Mopars want to stay on and require the puller but front drums are held in place by a cotter pin, castellated nut, washer, and bearing which are removed in that order. If the shoes are not rubbing the drum it will nearly fall off on its own or with a tiny bit of movement as mentioned earlier. Quote
adam_knox Posted March 18, 2009 Author Report Posted March 18, 2009 Thanks for the tips! TodFitch, your step by step instructions did the trick! I was a bit bummed when I pulled apart the cylinders, it was like crusty like old honey. The previous owner had said the brakes were done, looked at his shop receipt...They charged him over a hundred dollars to only add brake fluid and call it "fixed!" Plan on packing the bearings, as well as a few other projects I noticed in the wheel well. Appreciate everyone's tips, as for the few sly comments (I seriously woulda laughed if it wasn't me it was aimed at! ), all I can say is the the original Chrysler manual doesn't describe hub removal for the brakes (apparently they didn't make the Chrysler Shop Manual for Dummies Edition in 1949!), and dezeldoc, I hope you sleep well, cuz' I plan on tackling a lot of issues with this car. Everyone starts somewhere (and thankfully I have you fine people when my stack of books and internet searches don't do the trick!). Quote
dezeldoc Posted March 18, 2009 Report Posted March 18, 2009 Starting somewhere is fine but try something eaiser and not as safety oriented for your first try. disc brakes are pretty easy compaired to the old drum style try the daily driver and practice on it. Quote
mackster Posted March 18, 2009 Report Posted March 18, 2009 I got an extra drum if you want it. just pay for shipping and its yours. That way it will be like it never happened! I will even look away as you post the picture of it being fix and I wont ever bring it up in any conversation. . . Quote
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