speedyshark Posted January 4, 2009 Report Posted January 4, 2009 Got the car cleaned out today. going to be some work on the floor boards, There are some areas that look like Swiss chess. Anyway got a 6volt batt. and going to try and turn her over tomorrow. also got new plugs. Going to run a hose from inlet of fuel pump to glass jar with gas to keep anything that might be in the tank out. drained the oil, what is the best to go in 30 or 20-50? what is the best way to clean the oil element in the canister? what kind of brake fluid should be used? took the cap off master and no fluid in it (that might be why there is no brakes). How does the shifter work? I assume to get it into one of the gears you have to pull forward to get other gear. I have tried to pull but it will only move slightly. Is there a special way or just need to lube and loosen the linkage? Will hook everything up tomorrow and see what happens. I will look in the manual to see how to correctly connect the batt. Quote
RobertKB Posted January 4, 2009 Report Posted January 4, 2009 Sounds like you are going to have fun. To answer a few questions: -I like to use 20/50 especially in the older engines -Most oil canister have a replaceable cartridge. I use NAPA Gold 1080 which I know others use also. At this point, just take the old cartridge out and clean out the rest of the canister with an old rag. I am assuming that you have the canister with the removable lid and cartridge inside. -Use DOT 3 as this is almost certainly what was in there before. DOT 5 will not mix with DOT 3 and should only be used with a completely redone brake system. I personally use DOT 3 but there are lots on the forum that use and like DOT 5 when rebuilding the system. -You have the three on the tree if it is a P15. Reverse is toward you and up from neutral. First gear is toward you and down when in neutral. Second is push in and up and third straight down from there. Hope this helps and good luck! Let us know how things progress. Quote
Normspeed Posted January 4, 2009 Report Posted January 4, 2009 Take care with the gasoline jar, especially if you're working in a garage due to cold weather. Use plenty of ventilation so you don't get a buildup of fumes and make sure no pilot lights or spark sources are around. If this is the first startup on an engine that's been out of use, 30w would be fine. Maybe toss in a container of Marvel Mystery Oil if ya believe in the charms of snake oil. Canister element should be a pull out. You may want to use a turkey baster to get all the oil out of the canister. Don't mention that to the wifey. If you haven't bought your new element, note the brand and part number on the old one. There are two or three different sizes used. Brake fluid, anything up through dot 4. Hmmm, empty master cylinder, welcome to the world of vintage Mopars. Quote
greg g Posted January 4, 2009 Report Posted January 4, 2009 To select the gears ( the pattern is an "H") reverse is engaged by pullint the shift lever toward you and up, first is toward you and down, 2nd is towards the dash and up and third is toward the dash and down. neutral is in the center of the "H". Quote
speedyshark Posted January 4, 2009 Author Report Posted January 4, 2009 Sorry it is a '47 D-24. How much oil will it hold? Is it the same as v-8's 5qt. or more? I think the linkage is stuck on the shifter. It has a fluid drive and will go up, middle, down. When I try to pull it twords me to get the second shift rod to engage I can see the back shift rod move slightly, but just wont go. The trans. floor cover is off. Quote
speedyshark Posted January 4, 2009 Author Report Posted January 4, 2009 Oh the element in the canister looks like a cloth covered piece. when I took the top off had a pull string on top to pull out. It does not have a regular filter. Like I said the thing looks like it has a chess cloth covering it. Should I just try putting brake fluid in the master and bleed the brakes see if I get anything? I might start a build thread on the car. It will be slow going as I had back surgery two years ago and can only do so much at a time. Quote
Normspeed Posted January 4, 2009 Report Posted January 4, 2009 I've never dealt with one of those filters but I'm sure I've seen them somewhere. On the brakes, brake fluid doesn't evaporate like gas would, so if it's dry it leaked out somewhere. You'll eventually need to address the brakes but it wouldn't hurt to fill and bleed just to see what you have. Any leakage will make itself evident on the floor and the tire, so you'll know where to look first for the problem. Quote
Frank Elder Posted January 4, 2009 Report Posted January 4, 2009 Jamie, on your 3 on the tree, put in N and push gently towards the dash instead you might be in reverse and first detents already and pulling back will not help you. Then try to move up and down while still pushing forward Quote
Merle Coggins Posted January 4, 2009 Report Posted January 4, 2009 Sounds like you need this filter element. It's a Napa Gold 1011 Quote
speedyshark Posted January 4, 2009 Author Report Posted January 4, 2009 Merle that is the one it looks like. I guess I will take the other one back gold 1080.I guess I can get it started with the old one? Once she runs good I will change the oil again and then put in new filter.This should be OK right? Quote
speedyshark Posted January 5, 2009 Author Report Posted January 5, 2009 Got it to turn over. she's not frozen:D Could not get any spark out of coil. I don't have a key , but will try to get one made tomorrow.The coil in it was not connected so went off the manual best I could. + connected to distributor and - to ignition. I hope this is right. ( batt. is Neg. to starter and pos. to ground?) Would get spark if wired direct to batt. with jumpers, But then no spark out of number one wire (might be points, Is there a part number for a set?) What can cause loss of power from ign. to coil. No key yet so hot wiring car, jump wire from batt. to ign. Any way no power to coil from wire coming from ign. I will try and trace it but any ideas as to what can interrupt the power? (any rellays or fuse) Did get a new 6v coil and wired the same with no difference. turn signals did work if I hold the lever in the direction I think they are stock, because where the plate on dash that shows bights on has the blinker arrows as well. Can the thing be rebuilt to click on and off? Missed the one on E-Bay. Oh and lights did not work so will work on that too. I guess I will need to get on the wiring soon. Is there a better manual then the reproduction shop one? It seems to be very vague. Quote
greg g Posted January 5, 2009 Report Posted January 5, 2009 you can jumper the coil by running a wire from the neg bat terminal to the coil. Wire should have aligator clips, as removing it will be the only way to kill the ignition. Quote
speedyshark Posted January 5, 2009 Author Report Posted January 5, 2009 Thanks guys will check to see what dizzy I have (should be on the distributor some where?). Might just be the points are bad that's why there was no spark at plug? Did use multi meter and had power at ign. switch out but none at wire going to neg. side of coil. Quote
speedyshark Posted January 5, 2009 Author Report Posted January 5, 2009 Hey how I do I tell what dizzy I have? I looked and ID tag broken off. Book said it should be a IGS-4207A-1 The cap has IGC-1107 on inside. Quote
speedyshark Posted January 6, 2009 Author Report Posted January 6, 2009 come on I know someone knows. some one can help a brother out? Quote
speedyshark Posted January 7, 2009 Author Report Posted January 7, 2009 Well got a set of points and a condenser for the dizzy. I guess I will try to clean it up paint it and put in new parts. Hope this will help and will be putting a new wire from the ign. to the coil. I did go to get the napa gold 1011 filter, but when I opened the box it did not look like the pic. The guy looked it up and said your right it does not look the same:confused: I guess I will take all the measurements and see if it works. the one in the box did not cone on the top and hole looked small. Quote
speedyshark Posted January 11, 2009 Author Report Posted January 11, 2009 Got her started:D Unhooked all the wires from the ign. and ran new ones to started button new power in from 12v batt to ign. disconected ammeter and generator, and put in a 12v siloniod. Man put some gas down the carb and boom started right up. Sounds strong and no smoking or knocks. I need to rebuild the fuel pump it is not working and do a rebuild on the carb. Man she sounds good. Only thing is seems the starter does not disengage fast enough sometimes. Could be just needs to be run or rebuilt. Quote
Niel Hoback Posted January 11, 2009 Report Posted January 11, 2009 Take that starter off and clean the armature shaft where the drive gear slides. It may have been sitting too long and got a little rusty or dirty. Quote
RobertKB Posted January 11, 2009 Report Posted January 11, 2009 Niel is right. Often what a car needs after sitting a long time is some TLC and not a lot of money. Anything electrical after sitting a long time appreciates being taken apart and given a good clean. Added bonus is you get to inspect the condition of the item. Quote
pflaming Posted January 12, 2009 Report Posted January 12, 2009 Am I ever jealous! Been trying to start my engine for days now. Dave Erb has been advising and has been VERY helpful. Finally got fire to the plugs and all plugs fire, but cannot get that final timing down. Got new plugs, (Autolite 306's), wires, points, condensor, coil, battery and battery cables, but still got an old man's brain and that is hard to work with. I also know the engine is probably weak, but I don't want to rebuild it yet. Yet I will NOT give up. Wish me luck! Hope this doens't hi-jack this thread. Quote
speedyshark Posted January 12, 2009 Author Report Posted January 12, 2009 I will take the starter off and check it out. I think you guys are right some stuff needs TLC like the fuel pump, carb, brakes, rest of wiring,....... Well I will keep on her. pflaming make sure you are on top deed center. pull #1 plug out put thumb over hole crank till puff come out. This will make sure it is at TDC. line up timing mark by hand( if possible) then check firing order and that dizzy is in right. You probably already know this. Another thing that can be done, not sure if it will work on the flat works on a VW is static timing to get in right area to start it. Quote
speedyshark Posted January 12, 2009 Author Report Posted January 12, 2009 Where can I get the rebuild kits for the fuel pump and carb? (if available) Quote
speedyshark Posted January 12, 2009 Author Report Posted January 12, 2009 Anyone have a contact number for the AAC? I tried the web page and same page comes up for every page clicked and no pics or number. Quote
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