William Davey

Did you hear about the dumb blond that couldn't figure out why so many famous men were born on holidays?

Randy (owner of Randy's Ring and Pinion) told me that no new replacement differential gears are available for years prior to 1957. As suggested above, look for a used center section out of a 50's car that were available in 3:90 and 3: 73 ratios. Or replace the entire rear axle assy with one from a Jeep Cherokee (search the forum).

The best advice I was given was to imagine how the dent was formed and then reverse that process. This usually means starting at the end or outside edge of the dent and working back toward the center (usually the point of impact/first thing damaged). Hope this makes sense.

If you're trying to reduce engine speed you'll need an overdrive transmission, but you'll probably find it easier to replace the differential gearing with a higher (lower numerical) ratio.

Thanks for posting the resolution and process for us "less experienced" mechanics. Sometimes problems are presented, solutions offered, and we never hear the outcome. I'd like to rebuild my steering gear in the future and now believe I could do it.

I think Roberts sells replacement stock tail lights with Dodge script on the lens. They still look kinda like trailer lights, but it's another option. You could put LED bulbs in them.

Safety first - flat towing is like having a 3,000 pound trailer with NO BRAKES! I would never attempt a trip of this length without trailer brakes. At least a tow dolly or rental trailer will have surge brakes on 2 wheels. A flatbed trailer with electric brakes would be ideal from a safety standpoint. You don't mention the tow vehicle you'll be using, but a full size pickup or SUV would be the minimum for such a tow. To address the cost, do you know anybody in SE PA that has a trailer you could borrow? Maybe a body shop, or a car club? Look in the swap sheets, buy a trailer in PA, repack the wheel bearings, check the tires, brakes and lights and away to California you go. Sell the trailer when you get home - if you lose less than the cost of a rental, you win.

I like the signal lights, not sure about the green rings around the headlights. Some see green lights as an EMT on the way to an emergency, although those are usually flashing. Where did you get the headlights and signals?

The non vented cap I bought was from NAPA and it was the only one listed for my '55 Dodge C-3-B8. It was definitely not vented, if I drove or parked in the hot sun, then opened the cap there was a whoosh of gas fumes from the filler neck. Went back to my local NAPA where they have guys that actually know the parts they sell and there was no other vented cap option. So I drilled the guts out of the center of my cap and it became vented.

How'd the beer taste?

I have a 55 C-3-B8 and here's my $0.02. The stock rear axle ratio is either a 4:10 or 4:56 and there are no simple upgrades to change just the ring and pinion (according to Randy at Randy's Ring & Pinion). The little 259 V-8 has plenty of power, the truck is light and the motor will easily rev to 3,500 RPM's (red line is 4,400). My truck has 4:10 gears and 60 mph is about 2,850 RPM so no problem keeping up with traffic. Honestly with leaf springs all around and beam axles I really don't want to go much faster in this truck. You may not want your son going faster either. These do not handle at all like modern vehicles. While on the topic of speed, I strongly urge you to upgrade to front disc brakes. I used a kit from Olddaddy (AKA rustyhope on this forum) and I'm very happy with the results. Power steering is available on later years, and you may be able to adapt to the 55, but be aware that without power steering and with radial tires, this truck is VERY hard to steer at low speed. I choose parking spots carefully. So in summary, keep the 4 speed (just use 2nd, 3rd, and 4th) and the rear axle, fix the brakes and then decide what you want to modify. By the way, I bought a 3:55 Cherokee differential soon after getting my truck 7 years ago. It's still in the basement.

Seat belts - I had good luck with Juliano's . I installed 3 point belts using their kit, not hard at all.

Plymouthy - if you research Tire Rack for Fusion tires in 225R75/16, you'll find 92 reviews of this tire. Average rating is 3.5 out of 5 stars. I didn't see any reviews on older vehicles, but still a lot of info to be had. Then buy the tires where ever you want.

I bought replacement gas caps at NAPA that were supposed to be vented, they were not. You'll get a little gas on your lips, but remove the cap and blow on the little hole in the brass looking part of the cap. If no air passes, it's not vented. My solution was to drill the guts out of the gas cap. Worked for me.

These transmissions don't work like more modern 3 speeds you may have experience with. One lever moves back and forth as the shift lever is moved from 2nd to 3rd gear position. The other lever only moves when you pull the shift lever toward the driver, this lever is called the selector. The selector determines whether the first lever is moving shift rails for 1st and reverse (selector pulled) or 2nd and 3rd (selector not pulled). I had to pull the side cover off my trans to finally figure out how it works.

Kentd, Just be aware that your original hub caps will not work with the new wheels as there is no provision for the little spring clips that hold the caps on. Some have purchased Chevy clips and attached them to the new wheels with small bolts and spacer washers. I don't know how well that solution works.

Am I nuts, or does the underside of that hood look like a painting of a face? I see heavy black eye brows, dark smudges for eye sockets and a nose in the lower center? Maybe I am nuts. BTW I'm watching your progress with envy.

Paul - You might want to bring the second good coil on your first shakedown drive. It's possible to have a cold coil that will start and engine and run for a while, but fail when it gets hot. If you bring a spare you can almost guarantee that you won't need it.

Memory isn't what it used to be, but I think an editor for Hemmings Motor News adapted a single barrel TBI from a 258 c.i. Jeep straight 6 onto something old (can't remember what). Might be an option.

Fargo - My $0.02... You'll probably have to get a new drive shaft to go with the A833, why not do some math and change the rear gears now? Once and done.

Have you tried swapping wheels from side to side to see if the problem moves?

Johnny - nice truck. I have a '55 C-3-B with a 259 Poly V-8. Check yours carefully, I think a 241 was a true Hemi (only). The 259 was used in late 55 (maybe early 56) due to a shortage of Hemis.

POPTOP - I've never showed a vehicle, but here's my opinion. Find a nearby show and ask what the judging criteria is, they may even have written rules. Then build your truck to those criteria. PS. In some cases the use of ALL CAPITAL LETTERS is considered the equivalent of shouting (rude).

Can't help with D series, but my C series (second series 1955) is 62 inches WMS-WMS. I thought the cabs stayed the same up through '60, but I'm not sure about the frames & axles etc.

I also recommend the Rusty Hope system I purchased the additional parts needed at my local NAPA and had to go back a few times to get the right brake hoses. When I had a minor fitment issue with a spacer supplied with the kit, Charlie gave me his personal phone number and we talked through the issue. Note that I was installing this on a '55 C-3-B. For service after the sale, Rusty Hope can't be beat and the brakes work really well too.