William Davey

I agree with Rich's opinion that most signal light systems use the same color code. I recently rewired my 55 C-3-B8 which has a "Grote" signal light switch and I just compared my wiring to the schematic for the 900, 901, 910 diagram provided by Rich. All wires are colored the same on my Grote unit. On my truck: White = ground; Yellow = Flasher "L" terminal; Green = Left Front; Red = Right Front; Black = Right Rear; Blue = Flasher "P" terminal; Gray = Left Rear; Gray with Black stripe = from Brake Switch. My Flasher has a 3rd terminal "X" which is a fused always hot lead so the 4-way flashers always have power. Hope this helps.

If your linkage is like my 55 C-3-B-8 (3 on tree) the levers on the transmission do not work like other non Mopars I've seen. The others also had 2 levers on the trans, but both were mounted on horizontal shafts. One lever operates 1st and reverse, the other lever operates 2nd & 3rd. On the trans in my truck however, the lever with the vertical shaft into the top of the trans side cover only moves when you pull the shift lever towards the steering wheel. The lever with the horizontal shaft moves back and forth whenever the shift lever is moved radially around the circumference of the wheel. Inside the trans, the vertical lever moves a "flipper" that determines which gears the horizontal lever moves. Pull on the "flipper" the shift lever moves 1st and reverse. No pull on the lever, the shift lever now moves 2nd and 3rd. I learned this while bench testing my trans after a professional overhaul that I was sure had gone wrong. After removing the side cover I discovered this "unusual" configuration. Once you figure out which lever does what, there's only one way to reconnect the rods that makes sense.

In the early posts the comment was that a Chevy diff would be desirable since the front discs would be from Charlie's kit. I installed Charlie's kit on my 55 C-3-B8 and it used Volare rotors with the 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. His kit does use GM calipers, so maybe that's the confusion. I'm also looking for a new diff and was told by Randy's Ring and Pinon that truck differentials prior to 1957 may look like an 8-3/4 but that they were different and that he could not supply any gear sets for mine. My only choice is the original 4.10 or the OEM optional 4.86. So be careful about buying an old diff with the intetion of changing ratios.

Earlier in this thread I mentioned that my truck (C-3-B8) was a little OT, but now that we're talking colonoscopies I can contribute! Few years back I had to have an "exam" up in the rear private area. The Dr. explained that this was a short visit, only going to the "first turn" (his words). I dropped my jeans and laid on the table watching the scope as it traveled along - kinda facinating to look at the inside of your own body! After a few minutes, the Dr said "so I see you're a hunter"!! I'm looking at the screen too and ask him "why did you say that doc, did you find a beech nut?" The Dr replied "No, it says Cabella's on the back of your sneakers"!! I swear it's a true story.

I am relatively new to the forum and also lurk a lot without posting. My main reasons are: my truck is a second series 55 C-3-B8, not a true "pilot house". Truck also has a 259 V8 so the "flatheads" don't interest me. I have posted regarding disc brakes using the rustyhope kit. I still find TONS of useful and entertaining info on this site. I'm probably one of many who would always feel just a little OT.

I finally installed Charlie's kit on my 55 C3-B8, but have not had the chance to road test it yet (upstate NY in winter). The kit was well designed, but I also had to grind on the GM calipers and also clearance the caliper bracket a little. My later style 55 truck also required different brake hoses that took a little trial and error to select. Charlie was very helpful through the whole process and as we corresponded frequently. If anybody wants pictures or part numbers, just PM me

rustyhope.com sells a nice disc brake kit that uses your stock master cylinder and the rest is off the shelf at NAPA. I have purchased all the items for about $500. Have not installed it yet, but it seems very straigh forward. Charlie Akiers the owner was also very helpful. My truck is a 55 C-3-B8, but I don't think it matters.

I'm also looking for a replacement diff for my 55 Dodge C-3-B-8. Currently has 4.10's and really howls at 65. I'd like a ratio 3.55 or 3.73 and some better brakes. Bolt pattern is 5 on 4.5" center. I need 63" hub to hub to match the existing width of the diff. Local yards tell me the Cherokee is too narrow by about 2". I have found lots of info on spring perch C-C dimensions, but not Hub- Hub. Would like to stay MOPAR, will settle for Ford as a last resort. Does anybody know width info?

Is there anybody that would be willing to sell theirs? Thanks, Bill Davey 315-529-3918 Oswego, NY

Auto Zone sells pullers, then gladly refunds your money if returned within 45 days. On my 55 C3B, I removed the drums with a drum puller, then removed the backing plates and reinstalled the drums loosely. I used pieces from 2 different pullers (from Auto Zone) to adapt a slide hammer to the brake drum and pulled the axles, bearings and outter seals. Hint for reinstallation. Get a 3 foot piece of 3/4" fine thread rod (all thread) and a coupler. Thread this onto the end of your axle and you can easily manuver the splines back into place without undue pressure on the inner seal.