Big Easy

I’m sure this has been discussed… I did spend an hour trying to find an answer, but could not. I’m rebuilding a Carter BB DTG1… one barrel carb with dashpot for a 1950 Dodge Truck with fluid drive. Seems like the two places mentioned the most is “Mike’s Carburetor Parts” AND “The Carburator Shop” Does anyone know if the kits from these two place contain the same parts, or might one kit have more parts than the other? Any suggestions between these two shops… or any recommendations for any another suppliers? thank you

I love the fluid drive, I wouldn’t swap it for anything. If you feel like being all “farmer brown” and stuff, you can run her through the gears... but if your working on a burger and shake driving her around town, it sure comes in handy. And synchro shmynchro... I feel very noble and at one with my late Granpa when I take ten seconds to double-clutch coax her into the next gear.

You do realize that I said the scumbags are ransoming the emblems at $600 for a SET, right?? Man, you just took it to a whole other level!!! Although, my favorite number is tree-fiddy, if you happen to find one in the bottom of your parts bucket. ?

Thanks Todd... that’s like having the hottest girl you ever had a crush on but were afraid to ever approach, tell you a few years later, after you’re unequivocally not allowed cause you’re all married up and stuff, that she use to “want you so bad” a few years ago. In both instances, I could have lived without the “few years ago” reflections. (Wow! Did I just really make that analogy for my hood emblem?!? That’s just not right!)

I chimed in earlier on price ranges... but I've never heard or seen anyone address a 4 speed (granny) Fluid Drive... Fluid Drive worth more, worth less, or neutral (not taking into account the extra $600 the hood emblems will cost you because of the scumbags that hoard the emblems sell a set for $600... if you can't tell, I'm short one "fluid drive" script hood emblem if anyone has one laying around).

JackTruck - look at the auction site “Bring A Trailer” (“BAT”)... three B series trucks were auctioned in the past year or so. One brought 17k+, one brought 14k+ a couple of weeks ago, one fizzled out and didn’t sell a couple days ago at 8k+ They were all nice drivers... nowhere near show, but far from spiderweb rust buckets. It’s an odd market. They seem to be worth twice what they were, say three years ago. But there’s a wide range and not that many solid comps out there. You can find a nice solid driver out there for $5k and trucks that are usable “canvases” for rebuilds for 1k to 2k. But you can also find average drivers listed for 3k to 12k, and nice restores 8k to 25k... then you see frame-offs for 35k to 40k. But none of those numbers mean anything unless you know the final sale price... i.e., BAT, EBay, Mecum, Barrett, etc. So, short story long, depends on who wants the truck when you offer it for sale. I know, I said a lot without giving you any real answer, but I follow this pretty closely, and that’s what I’m seeing. Best - good luck.

Truck is a 1950 B2C with Fluid Drive and 4 speed on floor. (For pictures, see my other post.) I Start out in 2nd, but when shifting between gears there is a short grind until gear kicks in. Could this just be a clutch pedal adjustment or something else? Truck is green with green grille bars. I read, and saw pictures, in Don Bunn's book that the original body colored grille bars had a Sun Yellow (same color as the wheels) pin stripe along the bottom edge. I think this would look sharp. I think I would prefer that over the stainless grille bars. But people seem to love those stainless grille bars. I know it personal taste, but are the stainless preferable? I guess there's a guy that sells the stainless set on ebay for $1200. Any opinions? Truck has good glass in windshield (with new seal), and good rear and corner glass (needs new seals). Driver and Passenger windows and vents are cracked a need replaced. Any place better than another when ordering glass? I have it in a body shop now that specializes in restorations - getting some minor dings and bad rippley bondo areas straightened out. I think I'll have them do the glass so it will be done and be done right - I think that may be over my pay grade. Truck is Forest Green now with black bed and back fenders. I'm tempted to have it painted a two tone "Spring Edition" color, but my 11 year old son insists that it stay the color it is now... we'll see. If anyone has any contacts, I do need original bumpers and mirrors. Any advice on shouler seat belts - brand or type that fits better than others? I know that's a lot of questions - so thank you for your time Big Easy

Yes! My first major update to the truck was a set of wheel chocks!

and to make memories with two little boys.

I drove the truck, it drives great. Motor hums like a sewing machine, albeit a rather loud sewing machine at about 40 mph. Haven't used a choke since I sold my Cessna 172. We agreed on $5800 - throwing in the original 16 inch wheels and Dodge moon hubcaps. I guess I'll be around a lot more now. Thanks for everyone's help and advice. Number 1 job, fix the parking brake. Fluid Drives will roll in any gear. Thanks again, Big Easy

HI all, Original poster here. I have update on condition of truck and some photos (as you will see, I am no photographer). Truck has 28,000 original miles. Motor rebuilt 2 years ago - 2500 miles on motor. New transmission. Fluid drive in perfect shape. All brakes and brake lines are new. rebuilt rear end. All suspension redone. Basically everything on the truck mechanically is spot on (No Rust). It does have a plywood bed, something I can change out. Windshield rubber is new - needs all other window rubber replaced. New floor and mats. New seat. No rust. As you can see in photos, paint not very good and there is some dings and bondo ripples. My inlaw owns a body shop that specializes in restorations. So I can get most cosmetic work and paint done for next to nothing. Worth $6,800? I get the impression that he'll go down to at least $6,000 - if not a little lower.

I'm going to talk to the guy today. I will update with new information about what all has been done to the truck later this evening. I was going to drive it today, but we got quite a bit of snow here last night. I'll ask about the tank. I don't know if he "liked" it like that, or if it was a short cut or lazy issue. I kind of like it. Thank you for your answer. Gives me questions to ask him.

This is a 1950 3/4 ton 4 Speed Fluid Drive that runs nicely. New 12 Volt conversion and Gas Tank (see photo). The seller is my local mechanic. He and his dad buy old Dodge cars and trucks and fix them up. He has a new B Series project, so he's selling this one. He is asking $6,800.00 Negotiable, but are we in the ball park? From my research, I've seen rusty trucks with no motor and transmission for $3,000, and I've seen beautifully restored trucks for around this same price (also seen frame-offs up to 35K range). Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you