William Davey

Try Hot Heads.

Actually, all US Navy submarines include SS in their hull numbers. the first modern submarine was the USS Holland (SS-1) commissioned in 1900. The Nautilus was the first nuclear sub SSN-571 commissioned in 1954. SSBN subs were nuclear subs carrying ballistic missiles. Also note that the reactors on nuclear subs were Pressurized Water Reactors so no boiling occurs in the reactor vessel. The pressurized hot reactor water transfers its heat to secondary plant water in heat exchangers called steam generators where the boiling takes place. Hope this explanation is viewed as enlightening, it was not meant to start an argument. P.S. Two kinds of ships in the world.....submarines and targets!

East coast, USS James K. Polk SSBN 645. Ballistic missile sub was home ported in New London Ct while operating out of Rota Spain. Then went to shipyard in Newport News VA for 2 year overhaul and then home port changed to Charleston SC with patrols out of Holy Lock Scotland. Seven years, 5 patrols. Was an electrical operator on the nuclear power plant and eventually Engineering Watch Supervisor. Final rate was IC1 (SS).

I missed it too Paul. But I was underwater on a nuclear submarine somewhere in the north Atlantic. Had to go see the movie to see what it was all about.

I ordered 3 point belts from Juliano's. Decent price, good selection of colors and all the miscellaneous nuts/bolts/reinforcement washers etc. Their website has good information on what works. YMMV

My truck is a little newer and the 259 V-8 may have a little more power/torque than your 251, but here's my opinion. Years ago I bought a 1st generation Dakota rear axle with 3:55 ratio (currently truck has stock 4:10). I have never installed it because....... I usually drive on secondary roads where 55 mph speed is fine. Around town I can take most low speed turns in 2nd gear without trying to downshift to the non-syncro 1st gear (PITA). Soooooo. IMO, for my driving and use the stock gearing is better and more flexible. Future plans include maybe someday installing an A833 OD transmission with the adapter from the Aok boys which solves the non-syncro problem, but creates a new dilemma. Maybe the 3:55's are too low for the OD on the A833. So while I try to figure out what in hell I'm doing I drive and enjoy it as is.

In 1960 my father bought a '58 Plymouth ex NY State Police car. Had the 361 Special Police engine that was available in DeSoto and Chryslers that year. Boy would that son-of-a-gun go! Easy 55 mph in 1st, squawk the tires going into 2nd up to about 90, shift into 3rd and bury the 120 mph speedo.

When you find a color you like and then find the price is $1,200/gallon, then add the price of some filler, primer, sealer, sand paper, masking tape and paper, thinner, paint filters, etc, etc, hours and hours of labor to do it right, I'm surprised it's not closer to $10,000.

This website has a lot of info on the A833 including the later overdrive units. http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/four-speed-manual.html Note that this transmission in various configurations was used on everything from the 170 C.I. slant 6 to the 426 Hemi. Search the Aok boys on this forum too, they make an adapter for the A833 to fit older Mopar's.

Supra - I've voiced this opinion before, but....IMO the standard beam axle/leaf spring front suspension on these trucks was adequate for the roads and speeds of the 1950's. Any LS will power your truck a LOT faster than it will be safe to drive. Have you driven this truck at today's road speeds? As a minimum you'll need front disc brakes, new shocks, and a complete rebuild of the original suspension. For not a lot more money you could have IFS... search this site for a '54 pickup with a 360 built by member albolton (I think that the right name). My truck has the stock 259 Poly V-8 and decent stock suspension and I do not routinely drive over 55 mph. YMMV.

PT - I'm new to this discussion, so please forgive me if this has already been considered. You're planning to put a harmonic balancer on the engine but why not disassemble the clutch/pressure plate first? Replace with stock S10 disc and have the pressure plate rebuilt/rebalanced? I replaced the clutch and pressure plate in a Ford truck back in the day and had immediate vibration problems like yours. Swapped the pressure plate for another rebuilt (properly balanced) unit and the vibration was gone. IMO, you could eliminate possible causes with simple nut and bolt replacements and possibly avoid the much more involved balancer project.

And I have a 2014 Ram 1500 with an Italian EcoDiesel engine, a German ZF 8 speed transmission that was assembled in Michigan (or Mexico depending on the model). So what the hell is an American truck anyway??

The easiest way out it to assemble everything you have to the best of your ability. You may want to check the compression on the engine and do a minor tune up (points, plugs, condenser, rotor and cap - prolly wires too). A running moving (even though not street ready) car is much more marketable than a pile-o-parts. My $0.02.

Or put your transmission in a plywood box and send it to Northwest transmission in Winchester Ohio. No affiliation, just a satisfied customer.

tmtac, it's hard to tell from the small picture posted, but that bed looks like a Ford short box from the early 60's to me. Your front fenders also appear to have the large wheel openings from a larger series of truck, like a 2 ton. The T137 website I mentioned in my earlier post has a serial number decoder feature that will tell you exactly what the truck was when it was produced. I had to use it because the PO of my truck thought it was a 242 Hemi when clearly it was a Poly engine. The T137 site confirmed that the 259 Poly V-8 was original equipment in my truck.... mystery solved.

Strand; my truck is a '55 C-3-B8 -116. That breaks down as C series of truck, 3rd version (there was no 2nd version) B = half ton, 8 = 8 cylinder V-8 engine, 116' wheel base. Your truck would be a C-3-B6 if it's a half-ton. Would be a C-3-C6 if it's a three-quarter ton. You'll find this series of letters on the serial number plate under the hood above the steering column.

Alan, my truck is disc front from Charlie and stock drum rear rebuilt. New NAPA master cylinder and all new brake lines and hoses. Hope this helps.

Strandrunner: my estimates were based on me doing a lot of the work (except welding, engine machining, transmission overhaul). Have you driven your truck as it stands now? There's a kind of charm and personality for the original drive train that can be fun. Also, if you don't replace your front suspension you probably want to rebuild it now with new king pins, bushings, tie rod ends, spring shackle bushings etc. You then will have a fair amount of money in a suspension system that will be thrown away when you convert to IFS /rack & pinion/power steering etc. My truck has stock front suspension in decent shape with new radial tires, but I don't think I'd ever drive it faster than about 60 mph especially in traffic.

Have you contacted Charlie about your pedal pressure? I found his service after the sale to be outstanding and in my case the brakes work very well with only light pedal pressure. Different vehicle I know, but stock (new) master cylinder and the rustyhope kit.

Weasel - I had my trans rebuilt by Northwest Transmission in Winchester Ohio. They advertise in Hemmings. They work almost exclusively on old stuff and claim to have 14 tons of parts on hand. I'm not associated in any way, I just had a good experience with them.

Strandrunner - here's my back of the envelope estimate..Engine freshened/painted/with alternator, carb, water pump, fuel pump, hoses, manifolds either new or rebuilt = $5K; auto trans freshened with lokar shifter and kickdown linkage = $3k; stronger rear axle with more appropriate gearing, with new seals, bearings & brakes = $1K; Fatman independent front suspension (do you really want a screamin fast truck with a beam front axle and leaf springs?) $3K; boxing the frame so all that new horsepower doesn't twist the truck in half, = $500 (I can't weld); new wheels and tires = $1K MINIMUM; miscellaneous stuff like new gauges, new tilt steering wheel, rewire entire truck, dynamat heat & sound insulation, new drive shaft & u-joints, new radiator, plus anything the truck already needs like upholstery/headliner/door cards/ floor mats etc = $3K. Soooo... I think you're jumping off a $15-20K cliff. And this is only IF you don't do any paint/body work! I faced the same decision a few years ago when a rebuilt 392 Hemi became available for only $4,500 near me. I passed on the hemi, and I still enjoy my truck and all the comments it gets when we go places.

Tmac, your truck (like mine) is a little bit newer than most on this forum. For more power wagon information, try the "T137.com" website. They're the PW experts. Hope you enjoy your new find.

If you reline or replace the shoes, you'll almost certainly be into a major brake adjustment (as opposed to minor). In that case you'll have to adjust the large eccentric bolts anyway. You may want to read up on that procedure BEFORE you jump into this job. It's not overly difficult, but it can be time and patience consuming. Some on the forum advocate use of a special tool (Aamco 1750) while others have done without.

Two types of ship..... Submarines and targets!

I'd rather go through the pains of learning this new forum than any other "mind exercise". The payoff here is the wealth of information (and sometimes entertainment) provided by the still best forum on the web. Thanks Tim for pointing out an option I didn't even realize was there and I agree that we shouldn't have to change our preferences with every log-in.