Los_Control

I wonder how accurate you are shooting for? I'm using 18 gauge for patches, really seems to be a nice size to work with. I think it is about as close as we can get. 16 gauge would be so thick it would be murder to shape it. 20 gauge is getting thin, pretty sure my replacement floor pan is 20 gauge .... I'm worried I will have oil canning after installed if I do not add support. I think modern vehicles are using 20 or 22 gauge .... tinsy thin metal. 18 gauge is pretty sweet if you want to just make some patches.

I appreciate this thread also, bookmarked it. I will need to go through all these steps at some time. I spent some time cleaning & greasing all the tracks & hardware ..... For a driver everything works. I will need to replace the rubber, 1 glass is cracked .... bigger fish to fry at the moment, just a future project on the list.

A very handy kit indeed, & not real expensive. I have a similar kit I bought in hopes to pull dents with. ..... weld wire to the dent then use slide hammer to connect to the wire to pull. ..... They will easily pull a seal. A quick google search shows pry bars as pullers ..... reminds me of using a carpenters claw hammer as a kid to pull them. Use the claw just like you were pulling a nail.

That made me laugh Awhile back I bought a tool box from a estate sale & this was in it. Sure it is a seal puller & has a wooden slide handle .... thought it was cool. No idea what model number it is. I'm certain I would reach for my slide hammer if I want to pull a seal though.

Could be a few issues, first remove the petcock from the block make sure it functions as should. If the block still does not drain, it is the lowest point of the block. When the engine blocks are cast in sand, it is common to have some sand left over in the block .... then 70 years of crud ... it all settles in this area plugging the petcock drain hole. If this is the case, you probably want to pull the soft plug near the petcock & a upper top soft plug. You can run water into the top, use a long piece of wire from the bottom to loosen all the crap and flush it out. You will be surprised how much crap can settle in that area reducing your coolant capacity & coolant efficiency. I read about this issue years ago on this site, it is kinda common. I cleaned mine out and was amazed how much crap I fished out of the block. I did have my water pump removed and put water through the distribution tube to flush., I pulled all soft plugs .... they needed replaced anyways. Up to you how involved you want to get .... very least you need to pull the bottom soft plug to fish wire all around the side of the block to loosen the crud.

FWIW, I went to the wayback site earlier. Spent sometime trying to learn & navigate. I think I finally was getting somewhere .... every time I clicked on a .pdf I got a error "oops we did not archive that file" I did not find anything to save. I dunno maybe I was doing it wrong .... or @ggdad1951is correct .... I do not have a account there & had option to log in .....would that make a difference?

I feel vehicles have a personality & tell you what they want. Something like this could be pretty cool. These are $25 each. Probably close to the same diameter as the stock mirrors for your truck. Then there is the larger diameter round jeep mirrors you could put on the stock mirror brackets. My first project I started but ended up moving so gave it away. Was a 3/4 ton factory flat bed & had what would come on a large 2 ton truck. They still mounted to the hinge pins .... I do not know if there are reproductions made for them available? They look pretty funky here, Below is a photo of some 1947-1972 stainless steel GMC truck mirrors $14 each. Modify & shorten the arms. Lots of choices out there.

Boy she sure is a dirty girl .... Think the primer is over 2 years going on 3 .... needs some love. The mirrors I'm actually more satisfied then I thought I would be. The mounting hardware is "good enough" The mirrors are made in Taiwan .... offshore, but better then some offshore. They are the cheapest available on Amazon & called West Coast Jr's. $38 each. I have them tucked in width & height as far as possible .... they are a little wider then I prefer .... I can live with them. I imagine it with the final black paint, stainless trim & lights, AM radio antenna, dual cb antenna, A clean windshield Right now it is sitting on jack stands 8" off the ground so it looks taller then it is. I understand that this look or style is not for everyone, but I'm pleased with the direction it is headed.

Thats something I remember ..... Not seen for a long time. I remember as a kid buying a replacement flasher & seeing the heavy duty cost more. .... As a kid it was like who cares? I want the cheap one. A heavy duty flasher never made sense to me until I'm 60 years old & read this thread. ...... I suppose is not same issue with a 12 volt flasher? I certainly do remember flashers marked as "heavy Duty"

I got one mirror installed just to test the waters. Took about 10 minutes to drill 4 holes. They are not original or everybody's cup of tea ..... I love trucks & I like to see around me when driving .... these are exactly what I wanted or hoping for.

Thats what I see .... just grab one & it should work? The #'s photo I see a huge guessing game where one player says I see yellow & the next player says I see blue!

The first # looks different then the next two 6's. ..... Possibly the first # is a 8 missing the sides? I'm guessing 8663TS-4 The S could be a 6 but looks slightly different also

No idea if this helps, I flipped it and enlarged it some.

Looks can be deceiving, just because it has been painted does not mean the pins have been pulled. I think it may be the best way to remove the doors. I pulled the door hinges from the cab myself. This created other problems & then needed to adjust the doors ..... In the end my pins still need to be replaced. I should have just pulled them in the first place. I would only assume others are smarter then me & did it right the first time

One would certainly want the old tires removed before shipping. Would just ship only a wheel wrapped in heavy clear wrap with a shipping label attached to it. Would be the same way tire rack ships tires. I bought toe boards & a transmission cover wrapped & shipped this way. Next I'm considering buying a lower seat for my truck. The shipper warned me there would be no material on the seat, just metal springs ..... I assume is for shipping reasons. Not shipping cotton & cloth soaked in years of mouse pee. Sounds like your wheel repair shop is a pretty good friend to have.

Your truck appears the pins may have been removed or replaced at some point when it was painted? ...... Thinking they should not be to difficult to remove. A old rusty one you may need to use heat, then a hammer & punch ..... force them out. I would prefer to use a large C clamp, put a socket over the top of the pin. Something to push the pin under neath and use the clamp to force the pin out. I wonder if your paint is as good as it looks? Seems it would be difficult to remove without marking the paint ....... maybe wrap tape heavily around the area before applying C clamp? I'm not using factory mirrors, will be bolting mine to the doors. ...... Is my plan for today if I get to it.

Glad you caught it at home in the garage

Been awhile since I've done any reading on it. Might depend on what engine was in the 1937? If it was the 201 then I would know nothing about them If it was a 218 then I do not think you will have any problems. Pretty sure you can swap the flywheels & just use 4 bolts. I think the 8 bolts were added on the later engines to beef them up. The 230 had more hp, the automatic transmissions were coming out, there was the fluid drive .... My first project truck was a 1949 with a 1938 218 engine installed. So I did some reading on it. I believe it was 1935 they made a change of the starter location which affected the flywheel & bell housing. ..... So going from 1934 to 1936, you will have to have correct parts to make it work. ...... 1935 & up between 218/230 should be no issues with bolting together the trans/engine. If it was a smaller 201 engine or a Canadian model with a 25" head .... I have no idea if they will or won't work.

I guess I'm just baffled from the (non) issue? We can jump online & order what we want. I think the nicop is a better product. I think there is a market here, while is common we call them brake lines, they have many other uses such as hydraulic clutches, fuel, transmission .... I can understand phasing them out with a better product like nicop ..... just to drop them with no replacement .... go kick rocks & order from our competition .... just baffles me & makes no sense.

I would do like @OUTFXD and get all the loose rust I can get to. Then I would go in with ospho using a brush is best in my opinion, for hard to get to areas can use a squirt bottle & spray .... messy & wasteful. Once the ospho (rust converter) dries I would spray with a rustoleum rusty metal primer. Simply what I would do. Maybe the rustoleum is not needed. You can paint directly over the dried rust converter or use any primer you choose.

Today was probably not a good day for painting. It really was windy .... pieces in my paint booth were swinging around like wind chimes ... For the most part, I only painted the interior of the bed. I plan to haul lumber, concrete, dirt ... I painted both sides of the tail gate .... there is a dent above the D ... I call it character. .... I may not ever fix it and add another dent next to it in my travels. I also figure this truck will be a project for the rest of my life ..... I just want to stop rust and put some sort of paint on it for now. My mirrors I ordered yesterday .... suppose to be delivered tomorrow. .... another piece of the puzzle that needs solved. I have not seen them yet .... I'm not interested in the cheap cheesy chrome mounting brackets. I may make new ones & paint them. Just have to wait & see. I woke up with a goal today to work on installing my gas tank & making the mount for it. My wife woke up with the plans to wash clothes & use the dryer. ... My welder & dryer share the same plug. Just another day down & I got some things done, paint in the wind .... even if it was wrong.

Very true Paul .... I know of another Dodge trailer down the street that has the next generation of fenders on it .... I drive around it so I do not see it 53 or a 55? ... I dunno but still could have the 16" wheels on it & sitting full of tree limbs at a abandoned house. ..... I put my blinders on driving by. Just another example of how to find original wheels.

Should not be impossible to find them, they are out there. Maybe if you placed a add in classifieds you would find 1 or 2? Just for example I have 2 on a utility trailer that I have no intention of using .... I want a 60's-70's style 15" wheel with baby moons & beauty rings to match my truck. A: classifieds are not allowed in main forum. B: I'm too lazy too sell them. C : maybe add your location to your profile .... chances are I'm too far away from you & shipping would not be reasonable. Just for giggles I saw this for sale for a cheap price & bought it for spare parts .... I towed it home. It has original wheels with modern 16" radials installed. ..... No matter what I do with this trailer disassemble it for parts or restore & use it .... I will not use the original wheels. The wheels are out there ... you just need to ask the right people .... place a wanted add?

My first thoughts is possibly some crud got knocked loose in the radiator from overheating when the rad hose came off? Possible the T-stat is now malfunctioning getting ready to stick open or closed???? What I would do at this point I call the shotgun approach. I figure if the lower radiator hose needs attention, so does the rest of the cooling system. I would pull the radiator & flush it with a garden hose in both directions .... meaning turn it upside down and insert hose in lower so it comes out the radiator cap. I figure the water should come out just as fast as you pit it in .... or it is plugged. I would repeat this until the water comes out clean. I would check the water pump. If I can get the slightest wiggle from the front bearing, I would replace it. They are cheap & would piss me off if it starts leaking 2 months from now. I would replace heater hoses, radiator hoses, T-stat .... I would install a flushing T in the heater hoses while at it. With it all back together I would fill it with vinegar and run it through a few heat cycles to flush out the block & heater core using the flushing T. May be over kill, now you can cruise trouble free for years knowing your cooling system is in good condition. When I give this treatment to my daily drivers, I also replace the serpentine belt, pvc & vacuum hoses .... the things we normally forget about.