Los_Control

Kinda sounds like a vacuum leak .... sucking in extra air, .... so closing the choke equals it out? Spraying some carb cleaner around the carburetor base, throttle shafts etc would give you a hint if you have a leak ..... Also do you have vacuum windshield wipers? A leaky hose from the manifold to the wiper motor could be a problem. I have the Carter carburetor .... It uses 2 ball bearings to control the idle circuit iirc .... they are different sizes and easy to mix up .... no idea what the stromberg uses, never worked on them. These motors when working properly are very quiet and boring .... air sucking sounds is a real clue and needs to be addressed. My bad for confusing the down draft terminology, just never thought of a standard carburetor as a down draft before. Was thinking of a updraft.

Looks at @Eneto-55 accusingly and wonders if they did the welding on my rear fenders ??? Years ago before mig welders came out to the average user, thats just the way it was done .... My truck rear fenders have a few repairs done that way in the past. I need to go over those past repairs before paint. Last I checked, ..... I paid $750 for my 190 MP welder .... was on sale from $1300 as it was a display model. ..... $500 more for the tig hoses & foot control pedal for the wire. It is more welder then I need, .... same time buying gas bottles and filling them I have around $500 into that over a couple years. ..... I'm pretty happy doing flux welding and not have to mess with gas If I can get away with it. Amazing how often a guy will use the welder if they have it available .... Once my truck is finished I wonder how often I will continue to use it.

I'm still a little dazed and confused ..... down draft stromberg carb on a 1951 pilothouse? As @Robert Harrison stated, when you richen the fuel by closing off the air .... you have a carb issue. ..... Typically I would direct you to the clogged idle circuit of your carburetor. I know nothing of down draft carburetors, and if your 1951 pilothouse has them ..... this is a self inflicted wound.

I gave the exact same advice a couple years ago. A: Tig is the cats meow especially with automotive sheet metal .... even more so with modern vehicles and the thinner metals used. Amazing to watch a youtube video of a dude tig welding aluminum beer cans together and end up with a beautiful weld. B: Dont mess with fluxcore welders for sheet metal ... get a mig welder. Then I spent a couple years with my 220/110 multi process welder. Is capable of tig, mig, fluxcore, stick welding. I have never bought the equipment to tig weld with it and never tried stick ..... I only have welded mig & fluxcore. Mig is a really nice clean weld, if I did a lot of welding I would only use mig. Fluxcore just leaves a brown soot over the weld & creates little tiny BB's and the weld looks disgusting. I use a 4" grinder with a wire brush cup wheel on it, ..... 2 seconds running it over your weld and it is clean and is a decent weld. Just saying, when I did fluxcore welding on my truck I could do the new floor because it would be all seam sealed & covered, nobody will see it. I also used fluxcore to do the body patch in the back of the cab, when finished and with the bed installed .... nobody will ever see it. I did have a 1/2 bottle of gas I saved to mig weld the patches on the front fenders, no way to hide them ..... IMHO it was just too much trouble to switch the welder over to gas and just did them with fluxcore and very pleased with the final product. I think the main point I wanted to make, I think fluxcore is fine for the home hobbyist that does not weld for a living. I think the quality of the welder giving you control for heat & wire speed is crucial. The cheap Harbor freight fluxcore gives you low/med/high settings ... you just work around those settings. While a better machine will have dials that you can dial it in and set it for exactly what you want. ..... Still a dirty weld and a extra step to clean it .... but a good weld. Dealing with gas bottles is a extra step and expense also .... I have $200 tied up in my used bottle, that now needs to be re-certified. Think it is just under $100 last time I filled it .... Is a week turn around for me to drop it off and send it out to be filled then pick it up the next week. I think if a guy spends a little bit more for a multi process welder, you will have all the options available and find you can dial in and fluxcore sheet metal fine and not mess with gas bottles. ...... My experience spending 3 years teaching myself to weld.

The only advantage of the Ford V8 is they sound awesome. ..... I had one when I was in school so brings back memories for me. What DJ stated is all true, plus they tend to run hot and many fight overheating issues ..... which can be solved. Seems they all have cracks from casting. Not uncommon to go through 10 blocks and only find 1 worth building. Some cracks can be repaired, many are fatal. There are many speed parts available for them all cost a arm and a leg. Also depends what year the engine is. I would only mess with the later 8BA (48-53) The older ones can have strange bell housing not sure which years ....8BA trucks had the most popular bell housing for transmission swaps. Also the 8BA has a normal distributor, early models had various distributors on the front of the timing cover .... real pita to work with. The only reason why I would consider putting mine into my truck Is it is a low mile engine. Farmer must have over revved it and spun a bearing, the crank has been turned 10 thousands and it has stock pistons with zero ridge in the cylinders. .... then the fuel pump went out and he parked the truck in the corner of the barn. It needs complete tear down and cleaning ... everything including rings & bearings are in excellent condition .... I may replace the cam and install adjustable lifters in it. I would only consider it because I already have it ....I paid scrap prices for it and was happily surprised when I tore it down. Unless you can hear it run, or you have documentation from a machine shop for work done .... they are basically worth scrap prices. I considered selling mine once to a Ford enthusiast .... He would only consider it if I took the block in and had it magnafluxed. Would not even talk to me without first a clean bill of health from a machine shop. I cant blame him, he already went through several blocks looking for a good one, put a few grand in machine work in his current block to find out it is junk .... He has about $25k in custom accessories Crank, Rods, Pistons, Cam, dual carbs, all the chrome .... probably make about 300 HP If lucky .... boy they sure look cool though I have since picked up a 318 and now wont even consider sticking the 8BA into the truck.

I just learned in the past month or so that in 1949-1950 the trucks had 2 different distributors available. I actually have to use the number off the tag in order to get correct parts for it. Not saying I have the wrong dizzy for my truck, just that they had different options and they used different sized caps, points, rotors. Just saying.

Tough times to be a seller, with the current economic conditions the past few years .... really is a buyers market for these old Hot Rods. In top condition these old mopars are never worth as much as a popular Ford of the same year .... With exception of some really nice Chrysler's & Desoto that hold a higher value. A knock off police car really has a very narrow market to begin with ..... Not something I personally would want to daily drive ..... special occasions would be fun.

You never know when you need a piece of wire for a roadside fix, just a handy place to store it.

I suppose someone needs to say it ..... absolutely be as careful as you can removing it. Even though you are as careful as can be, they were somewhat fragile when new, now they are ~75 years old. The one in my truck looks very good and seems to be in working condition ..... sometime in the past it leaked and no longer works. I have a later aftermarket I was using and planning to use as a donor to repair my original .... it started leaking when I went to remove it. I'm just saying you need to be as careful as you can, if you get it out and clean it up and it still works ..... go buy a lottery ticket.

NO NO NO!!! Thats cheating ? Thats what I did, I needed to clean out or go through my original carb ... same time I ordered a rebuilt from rockauto. So I went through the original and put it on the shelf for a spare, and was running the one I bought from rockauto. So it was really simple to swap out and try it last week. I now have a different problem with my accelerator pump not working. But the original problem I was trying to figure out went away ..... So I know it is a dirty carb in my case .... my spare needs a accelerator pump. Might get a bad rap for not going through proper troubleshooting procedures .... sure is nice having spare parts though ..... I also have known good working spares of my ignition system.

As a side note, sometimes it is difficult to distinguish between ignition and fuel problems. IIRC, If your points are wearing and no longer opening far enough, could cause your issue. Idles fine but stumbles picking up speed .... enough spark for idle but not for under load.

How about the gas tank? Last week I had to change the carb on my project truck, I had a spare. The carb had several hours of run time but not actually driving it yet. As a project I have been running on a temporary 2 gallon with no lid, just a hose stuck in the top. Dirt has got into the carb and will need to take it apart for a good cleaning. TBF I also need to make the permanent fuel line and has no fuel filter. I just think a dirty carb could be the sign of a deteriorating fuel tank .... or possibly dirty fuel from the last gas station you filled up at. Also what kind of fuel filter do you have? I currently have the glass bowl with no filter inside it, will add a modern filter under the vehicle near the tank when it is time. Various reasons why the carb can have dirt in it, I think pulling apart the carb to clean the passages was fairly common on these old cars. Not so much today. With better filters and tighter restrictions on gas stations .... unless the problem is on your end and in your tank. I would remove the carb from the car, then in a drain pan I would wash it down with carb cleaner so would not transfer any dirt from outside into it. Then disassemble the carb paying close attention to the idle circuit and using carb cleaner and compressed air blow out all the passages .... rinse and repeat and get it all as clean as you can and then reassemble it .... hopefully you should not need any new parts as new as it is. I then would change all filters in the car and throw in a can of seafoam in the tank ... A poor attempt at cleaning the fuel system while you are at it. Naturally if the tank is bad, it will happen all over again until that is remedied.

I always thought it was moonshine ..... cool cars I love the body style on them. As far as those bolts goes, I'm guessing heat would be best. Possibly welding nuts on them and really crank up the welder and give them extra welds ..... might be enough heat to break them loose. Possibly cutting them down shorter so the threads will get maximum heat penetration when the nuts are welded on? A oxy/acetylene torch would be ideal ..... I'm guessing you already know this ..... I'm not allowed to play with them though

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Sorry just read up ..... I did give you the close to exact measurements .... While I love Rustyhope .... sorry they are dragged into such a trivial problem. It is just brakes, just get it done and make it safe. No sense in dragging the king of brakes into your issue. I still say you have too new of a MC to work with your project ...... where did you hear a 2000 MC would work? This was totally your choice.

Chicks love this! This is a sad thing about modern fuels. .... They really do deteriorate over time. ..... Just not the same gas your father used. I'm not sure on the correct way to eliminate or fix the issue. I did rebuild a carburetor once, it was simply disgusting as it was full of grey goo. It really was just modern gas that has sat for a few years. Gas 7 years ago was not like this .... modern gas is. IMHO, getting rid of gas 2 or 3 years old is a must ..... If you run it through your carburetor you are just asking for a tear down and clean ..... Might need it anyways and a good thing. Back in the 1970's Grandpa filled every junk car fuel tank on his property to be sure to have fuel when he wanted .... It would last over time. Todays modern fuel sucks and 1 year it is pushing if it is still good. I would suggest running it out and getting fresh. When you get modern gas 5 years old, you need to clean the fuel out of the system .... fresh gas and seafoam to clean the fuel system. If you actually ran the vehicle, you may now need to open up the carburetor and clean it. Years ago we could get away with this .... today not so much .... If it runs you can try adding fresh fuel and a cleaner like seafoam to see if it cleans itself out.

I really know very little about brakes and engineering a custom brake system ..... I can only copy what smarter people then me has done. I've always heard it was the early 90's Toyota MC that works. Besides the mounting bolt pattern, they also had rear drum brakes and the MC bore is 1" the same as our original MC. I just did a quick search on a 2000 Corolla MC and Master Cylinder Bore Diameter (IN) 0.812 So the piston bore is not the same size as the MC they are replacing. I also think the newer cars all had 4 wheel disk brake, larger calipers, ABS and other trick options ..... just a total different animal then a 1992 Corolla. Is the smaller bore bad? I have no clue, seems like it might give more pressure to accommodate the larger 4 wheel disk brakes. It may be a longer, larger MC for the same reason. I've just never heard of a clearance problem using the early 90's MC.

I just looked it up on my pc at rockauto and I can see my past choices highlighted it took me to 1992 Corolla I looked for the basic mc without ABS etc.... There is a million to choose from, I chose middle of the road $52. I know this MC will work for several years of Toyota, 2000might be to new and different. . https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1992,corolla,1.6l+l4,1275409,brake+&+wheel+hub,master+cylinder,1836

You are correct, it was just easier to butt the tape to the mounting flange and 6" ..... It is mounted . I just worked a little harder and measured total length and it is about 6.7/16" ... just under 6.5"

@Jim Shepard Just curious what year MC did you use? Think I went with 91 or 92. I have about 1/2" clearance between mc and steering box. Also I measured and it is 6" long. I measured from the outside of the base where the mounting bolts seat .... I butted the tap to it. So add the thickness of the base mine is probably ~6.5"

I spent some time getting it to run again. Turns out the new condenser I installed was DOA. I put the old one back in and it fired right up. It starts really fast and runs smooth through acceleration. @Rodney_Hamonwas correct in suggesting fuel .... they get the door prize and is in the mail Nice to know the carb I went through and put on the shelf works fine. The accelerator pump is not working properly. I remember it looked pretty good and was leather or whatever they were made out of. So I soaked it in oil then reused it. I still have a new accelerator pump in a kit ..... someday will get to it. Because of the "yet another bad condenser" I'm going to install the external condenser I picked up a few years ago. Mount it on the coil bracket and wire it to the coil instead of internal to the points. Nothing is ever easy, the coil was fatter then the one I removed. I had to cut the bracket off and spread it out and weld it back on, then paint .... so will have it installed today ..... I expect it to work just fine. I can leave the original working condenser mounted, just disconnect it from the points .... if the wire stays out of the way? I will still have a spare condenser in the truck if needed, just need to hook it up.

I'm Just saying that the op does not list the state they live in. Also every state has their own rules or laws for giving a title to a vehicle. What works in one state may not work in another. Some states like CA will be way more difficult then TX. If you have a truck 75 years old, who is to say if it was moved from one state that used one number or process to another state that used a different process 50 years ago .... that does not match the current process today? ...... Just saying, if I had a good clean title for the vehicle in my name .... I would just let it rest. If the title transfer became a issue for the new buyer, then I would feel obligated to spend time to help them through it.

I think this is one of those areas where the individual state will have their own requirements. As far as I have heard, the engine # & frame # matches on a vehicle with original engine ..... Not many have the original engine. I wonder what year it was when cars actually had a title. ..... Just suggesting that a 1933 Dodge never had a title from the factory. This was something that came along later with the need to clarify ownership of the vehicle. I'm also saying that adding a title to a vehicle came at different dates/years to different states. I Imagine by the 50's most if not all states were on board so they could collect taxes for the new roads being built. My only point to this, if you have a clean title in your name and you sell it ..... just go with the buyer and transfer the title if needed. Would be easier then scraping old numbers off the frame that may not match your title .... different states used different numbers in the title process and the process changed over the years. And varied from one state to the next. I think a old phrase comes to mind here ..... "Let sleeping dogs lay"

I would say you are fair in suggesting this. I have tried to solder dirty wire in the past .... simply like trying to weld dirty metal .... it sucks and will get lots of failures while trying to stick 2 metals together. You will get it eventually with lots of work. I imagine soldering is like welding, the cleaner you get it the easier/better it will accept the new solder. I really only have 3 or 4 areas where I would want to try this. ..... I have new pigtails for the headlights, I have new tail lights. To solder 4 troublesome wires is not worth ordering a whole box full of connectors I will never use. A mild acidic solution may be ideal to remove corrosion from stranded wire.

Sounds great. Between dealing with the BIL and weather I have not been getting much done. Am out in the shop today working some. We live close enough we should get together & BS I would really appreciate your opinion on my choices. Not really happy with the wiring harness I bought .... was thinking to use it to build one from scratch. I sure could use a second opinion on it ..... Starting to wonder if it is the best decision. I have several other Ideas I would like to have your opinion on. Just saying your advice would be greatly appreciated. As far as working .... I would not stop you, I just feel guilty because I work 15-20 minute then sit down for 1/2 hour, then get back at it ..... I'm slow and thats just the way it is