Los_Control

I always thought it was moonshine ..... cool cars I love the body style on them. As far as those bolts goes, I'm guessing heat would be best. Possibly welding nuts on them and really crank up the welder and give them extra welds ..... might be enough heat to break them loose. Possibly cutting them down shorter so the threads will get maximum heat penetration when the nuts are welded on? A oxy/acetylene torch would be ideal ..... I'm guessing you already know this ..... I'm not allowed to play with them though

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Sorry just read up ..... I did give you the close to exact measurements .... While I love Rustyhope .... sorry they are dragged into such a trivial problem. It is just brakes, just get it done and make it safe. No sense in dragging the king of brakes into your issue. I still say you have too new of a MC to work with your project ...... where did you hear a 2000 MC would work? This was totally your choice.

Chicks love this! This is a sad thing about modern fuels. .... They really do deteriorate over time. ..... Just not the same gas your father used. I'm not sure on the correct way to eliminate or fix the issue. I did rebuild a carburetor once, it was simply disgusting as it was full of grey goo. It really was just modern gas that has sat for a few years. Gas 7 years ago was not like this .... modern gas is. IMHO, getting rid of gas 2 or 3 years old is a must ..... If you run it through your carburetor you are just asking for a tear down and clean ..... Might need it anyways and a good thing. Back in the 1970's Grandpa filled every junk car fuel tank on his property to be sure to have fuel when he wanted .... It would last over time. Todays modern fuel sucks and 1 year it is pushing if it is still good. I would suggest running it out and getting fresh. When you get modern gas 5 years old, you need to clean the fuel out of the system .... fresh gas and seafoam to clean the fuel system. If you actually ran the vehicle, you may now need to open up the carburetor and clean it. Years ago we could get away with this .... today not so much .... If it runs you can try adding fresh fuel and a cleaner like seafoam to see if it cleans itself out.

I really know very little about brakes and engineering a custom brake system ..... I can only copy what smarter people then me has done. I've always heard it was the early 90's Toyota MC that works. Besides the mounting bolt pattern, they also had rear drum brakes and the MC bore is 1" the same as our original MC. I just did a quick search on a 2000 Corolla MC and Master Cylinder Bore Diameter (IN) 0.812 So the piston bore is not the same size as the MC they are replacing. I also think the newer cars all had 4 wheel disk brake, larger calipers, ABS and other trick options ..... just a total different animal then a 1992 Corolla. Is the smaller bore bad? I have no clue, seems like it might give more pressure to accommodate the larger 4 wheel disk brakes. It may be a longer, larger MC for the same reason. I've just never heard of a clearance problem using the early 90's MC.

I just looked it up on my pc at rockauto and I can see my past choices highlighted it took me to 1992 Corolla I looked for the basic mc without ABS etc.... There is a million to choose from, I chose middle of the road $52. I know this MC will work for several years of Toyota, 2000might be to new and different. . https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1992,corolla,1.6l+l4,1275409,brake+&+wheel+hub,master+cylinder,1836

You are correct, it was just easier to butt the tape to the mounting flange and 6" ..... It is mounted . I just worked a little harder and measured total length and it is about 6.7/16" ... just under 6.5"

@Jim Shepard Just curious what year MC did you use? Think I went with 91 or 92. I have about 1/2" clearance between mc and steering box. Also I measured and it is 6" long. I measured from the outside of the base where the mounting bolts seat .... I butted the tap to it. So add the thickness of the base mine is probably ~6.5"

I spent some time getting it to run again. Turns out the new condenser I installed was DOA. I put the old one back in and it fired right up. It starts really fast and runs smooth through acceleration. @Rodney_Hamonwas correct in suggesting fuel .... they get the door prize and is in the mail Nice to know the carb I went through and put on the shelf works fine. The accelerator pump is not working properly. I remember it looked pretty good and was leather or whatever they were made out of. So I soaked it in oil then reused it. I still have a new accelerator pump in a kit ..... someday will get to it. Because of the "yet another bad condenser" I'm going to install the external condenser I picked up a few years ago. Mount it on the coil bracket and wire it to the coil instead of internal to the points. Nothing is ever easy, the coil was fatter then the one I removed. I had to cut the bracket off and spread it out and weld it back on, then paint .... so will have it installed today ..... I expect it to work just fine. I can leave the original working condenser mounted, just disconnect it from the points .... if the wire stays out of the way? I will still have a spare condenser in the truck if needed, just need to hook it up.

I'm Just saying that the op does not list the state they live in. Also every state has their own rules or laws for giving a title to a vehicle. What works in one state may not work in another. Some states like CA will be way more difficult then TX. If you have a truck 75 years old, who is to say if it was moved from one state that used one number or process to another state that used a different process 50 years ago .... that does not match the current process today? ...... Just saying, if I had a good clean title for the vehicle in my name .... I would just let it rest. If the title transfer became a issue for the new buyer, then I would feel obligated to spend time to help them through it.

I think this is one of those areas where the individual state will have their own requirements. As far as I have heard, the engine # & frame # matches on a vehicle with original engine ..... Not many have the original engine. I wonder what year it was when cars actually had a title. ..... Just suggesting that a 1933 Dodge never had a title from the factory. This was something that came along later with the need to clarify ownership of the vehicle. I'm also saying that adding a title to a vehicle came at different dates/years to different states. I Imagine by the 50's most if not all states were on board so they could collect taxes for the new roads being built. My only point to this, if you have a clean title in your name and you sell it ..... just go with the buyer and transfer the title if needed. Would be easier then scraping old numbers off the frame that may not match your title .... different states used different numbers in the title process and the process changed over the years. And varied from one state to the next. I think a old phrase comes to mind here ..... "Let sleeping dogs lay"

I would say you are fair in suggesting this. I have tried to solder dirty wire in the past .... simply like trying to weld dirty metal .... it sucks and will get lots of failures while trying to stick 2 metals together. You will get it eventually with lots of work. I imagine soldering is like welding, the cleaner you get it the easier/better it will accept the new solder. I really only have 3 or 4 areas where I would want to try this. ..... I have new pigtails for the headlights, I have new tail lights. To solder 4 troublesome wires is not worth ordering a whole box full of connectors I will never use. A mild acidic solution may be ideal to remove corrosion from stranded wire.

Sounds great. Between dealing with the BIL and weather I have not been getting much done. Am out in the shop today working some. We live close enough we should get together & BS I would really appreciate your opinion on my choices. Not really happy with the wiring harness I bought .... was thinking to use it to build one from scratch. I sure could use a second opinion on it ..... Starting to wonder if it is the best decision. I have several other Ideas I would like to have your opinion on. Just saying your advice would be greatly appreciated. As far as working .... I would not stop you, I just feel guilty because I work 15-20 minute then sit down for 1/2 hour, then get back at it ..... I'm slow and thats just the way it is

5 gallon bucket and pictures or it never happened I have to say it was 35 years ago and do not remember everything I tried. .... I know it was the typical things. I was getting ready to go on a 6 hour drive to my mothers funeral the next day. I had the car all packed and ready to go, my wife was working til noon that day. So killing time I thought I would put a new set of plugs in the car. So I spent a couple hours trying to extract it with no luck .... Running out of patience I pulled the head and worked on it all night. The wife was on standby and we would leave as soon as finished. Was 8:00 AM when I pulled the car out of the garage and ready to go .... The funeral was at 10:00 AM and 6 hours away ..... I tried.

Yeah just one of those things you look at and say wow .... seems like it worked and ran a long time like that .... I doubt anyone here in this forum would build it like that. Good luck with the plug, I only had one plug like that on a 1980's Toyota. I had a bad head gasket and leaking coolant between middle cylinders. The plug broke off and in the end I had to remove the head and drill it out. Then used a helicoil for the over sized spark plug hole. ..... Worked fine for a few years afterwords ..... think it was carburetor issues I finally junked the car over. I never did have a problem with the spark plug or helicoil again. Poor factory design with no head bolts between the cylinders and the heads would warp. The factory recall on it was to add a shim with the head gasket ...... I just added two head gaskets and problem was solved. .... they had to order the shim & 2 weeks out if lucky.

I thought it was interesting they added the coil springs as over loads .... Disconnecting the springs from the spring perches ...... Just looks bad to me. So I'm confused about what they were trying to do here. Was this a hokey pokey fix to add coil springs and eliminate the original springs importance? Or was it done on purpose to redistribute the weight and make it act more favorably? Just saying, I looked at that and got no clue what they were trying to do here.

I think it is possible that a black truck will always look dirty Kinda got through the bad weather and slowly getting back at it. While I still need to make it run again after I did a tune up .... ? Just too many pieces lying around and tripping over them, so I'm concentrating on putting the bed back together. Just amazing how much dust and dirt has collected on it since I painted it, it needs a bath bad. I got the bed sides on yesterday, today I was working on the tail gate. Then I had to do some work on the running boards to get them ready to install. .... Cold wet and raining today, not a lot done. I have a tail gate now ... I'm excited as it is the first time it has been on the truck since I've owned it. Looking forward to getting everything locked down .... still in the stage of loose bolts so can move things around for adjustment. I have been putting off this last stage of paint forever ..... I just dont want to do it!!!! I need to spend two days under the truck to grind and clean then apply ospho rust converter to the floor of the cab, then seam sealer on the welds from the new floor I installed, then paint. Life sucks I just cant go any further til it is done, the running boards will be in my way .... I want the new gas tank installed before I finish my tuneup .... I've waited as long as I possibly can, I just have to do it before going forward.

The only advice I have .... I suck at automotive wiring and facing wiring my truck. I'm guessing that that this did work as it should at some point. Then you just found a issue so you are now investigating it. So I'm not saying your wiring is correct, just that it did work .... and something has changed. Bad grounds are brutal, a poorly grounded light socket will do all sorts of weird things ... it works when you do this, but when you add a brake pedal into it then it no longer works. .... Now it has too much current going through the wire and the poor ground just fails all together. You know what I'm saying? .... It kinda works like it should, then it just stops working ..... could be several things but a bad ground is very possible. Then if it worked before, you can look for a loose connection, a burned wire ..... trace it back as much as possible and see if you can find something wrong.

Yesterday was really nice, I did get the bed sides bolted together .... working on the tail gate hinges now, they just dont want to slide into the hole ..... need to clean out the pipe.. Seems to be just enough surface rust inside .... not a easy spot to get to. Feel like I'm getting lost in the weeds and should worry about it later. I need to get the front fenders installed and then the running boards and hang the old fenders temporarily. I can still slide the bed forward/back a a couple inches .... I need the running boards and fenders to know where to start drilling and bolting the bed to the cross bars. And I'm messing with the tail gate simply because I've never seen it installed. And the truck still isn't running since I tuned it up ??? .... just tired of tripping over everything as I'm out of room ... so putting the bed together. I still need to fill the transmission/rear end with oil before I forget ? I get to do what I want this week, BIL is in the hospital and they moved him to hospice .... they give him about a week or less. The Sister flew in from Washington for 9 days and has a rental car & motel, wife is down there with them. So just me and the dogs this week. Sigh I need to call the wife. She called last night as the sister was being kicked out of the hospital for her rudeness .... trying to tell the nurses how to do their job and what they were going to do next .... I expected the wife to call me this morning, I better call and make sure they not in jail

Rain and fog all morning here ..... almost noon and the sun finally peeked out between clouds .... might have to my shoes on and go do something

Possibly you have not driven our roads lately ..... but you offer good hope.

Just thinking this is one of those areas where a new part is not available. I can use all the pieces and recreate the connection. ..... The contact end will be creative just seems easier to trim it back and add a new wire. But if a old wire will not accept tinning .... I have more work to do .... I just thought this would be a easy fix ...... And now @kencombs going to rain on my parade .... sheesh!

Hrm, I do not want to overtake this thread. Just thinking that my wires for my parking lights in the photo. ..... It is not a simple basic connection .... just crimp on a new end. My thought is to cut it back 3" then add a new wire and solder, shrink tube it ...... Always something new to learn.

Please @kencombs tell me this is not true. While rewiring my truck I was kinda counting on using some pieces of my old wiring. For example a few bullet connectors ..... The original connectors are fine, the wire looks good .... just the cloth covering has disintegrated. So my plan was to cut the wire back to 2", solder new wire to the old original wire and shrink tube it. .... using the good original connectors. What you are saying is, I will not be able to clean the old stranded wire good enough to reuse it. Maybe I should make a new plan? Just saying 95% of my wiring will be all new .... but I did think I would save some of the original connectors/terminals to make it easier then trying to find replacements. Bullet connectors to be exact. You think that is a bad idea @kencombs?

Good thing it is a fresh build .... I do not see those doors ever getting out of alignment and causing a bad connection.