Los_Control

Be more concerned with the plastic fuel filter next to the exhaust .... gives me the heebie jeebies just looking at it

just saying, pull the dog house and do other needed maintenance while there

pflaming I know nothing about these flat 6's I had a toyota pickup that the timing chain stretched so much it slapped against the timing chain cover. I put a new chain and gears on it, ran like new. As it stretched, the timing would change as you gave it gas or let off the gas, I suspect eventually it could break, but the change in timing and the slap against the case is very annoying. My current project is the 49 dodge, using a stick to find noises, my chain is very noisy, I suspect a stretched chain, while the engine and valves seem quiet. My truck I have the dog house off, very simple to get to the issues I need to address, I need to set the valves, paint the frame, new brakes ... is all easier with the doghouse off. I have to ask myself, would I remove the doghouse for a timing chain? I dont think so. Same time, it really may be easier. flat head ford distributor, you have to stand on your head under the car to adjust the points .... removing the doghouse is a convenience.

wonders if paint is required .... sigh

vega and chevy monza was basically the same car, and the monza had a factory v8 as a option. Yeah a small car but they seemed built heavy enough for the factory to use a v8. Of course all the aluminum vega motors died a quick death and v-8's were often installed. Was pretty much a bolt in with off the shelf parts. Yeah vegas were small cars, but built pretty well compared to a foreign car of the time period.

No doubt you need to pre drill, because of the hardness of the wood, you are going to need some strong screws. I know they make some really strong ss screws, I have never found any. Just something else to chew on.

Damn that is pure porn, really like how it is coming out

another idea, you could cut a 1/4" notch in the sides of the shovel strips, you still butt into it on top, but small drain holes on the sides for water. I just think when you tighten the bolts down the trim will bend and distort the pretty shovel strips. I also think showing less fasteners is cleaner, but is a personal choice.

Question, are you still planning to lift the bed floor out as one piece for future maintenance? If so, I would be tempted to use some screws from under the floor boards, up into the trim. The heads would be hidden, 3 screws in each board would keep the floor from racking at a diagonal when lifting it up? Then you would butt your shovel strips to the trim, maybe add a drainage hole somewhere?

yup yup yup, love that one. I like the idea going to a modern radial tire. I do not think those wheels you have are true widow makers, looks like regular spit ring and think they call them California bud wheels (bolt pattern/center section) May be difficult to find the 22.5 wheels for those but I never tried. Either way, the current wheels you have should be no problem getting tires repaired at a truck stop. Truck looks great as yard art

My Uncle got a preview, neighbors complaining and code enforcement showed up. Kids drove 200 miles and started hauling everything straight to the scrappers. Just because you love them, does not mean your kids will.

I tend to agree, I looked at the link to see what we were talking about, My first thought is neither will be on my car/truck ... then read pa post. I will add that this will create controversy, many think that loder does not belong in automotive as it is not flexible enough for vibrations. Some say we need crimp on butt connectors for automotive Some will only use solid metal connectors with a shrink tube sleeve <--- I like this one The other connectors have a plastic sleeve on them, basically you smash them flat and hope they work. 1 in 20 may fail in a few years, rewire a whole car and adds up. While the others will work as long as you own the automobile

Sheesh what a score, I would build a new driveway for that ol girl .... you are a lucky man to be the caretaker.

The goal was to get the family together for outdoor fun time. Of course mother was so busy, she simply had no time for such shenanigans.

That really looks nice, You get a atta boy from me

Almost like cheating, is underneath and nobody going to see it, meat that is left is now very manageable. And the end result is nice. Little putty, little paint, make this ol carpenter what he aint.

I have never worked with ipe before, sounds like it is tough to cut. Is it possible to back cut at a angle the edge boards, this would remove material on the bottom and leave the top. Then take a #2 pencil and scribe the edges, tracing the sides to the wood. Then use your grinder with 80 grit paper and grind to the line .... this will get you real tight, also can adjust the taper issue so the middle board is cut straight. This is how I would tackle oak or other woods, You can get a fit so tight that cant slide a hair through, then pull the board away from the sides for proper reveal, any adjusting I would want to do it on the edge boards. Making a straight 90 degree cut on the edges is tough to get a tight fit. Especially if the bed rails lean a bit or you have round corners on the wheel wells. Your cuts look really good though. If you could picture using your grinder and grind at a 20 degree angle on the bottom side of the edges. Then the top side that you see is thinner, but on the edges and fine ... and the thin wood with a steady hand, you can easily grind to the line you scribe'd. Same time use a square and math and figure out how much to remove from each edge, to square up the hole in the center. If possible, adjusting the edge boards to eliminate the problem is the correct way. Same time, you could just cut the center board to fit and drop it in.

Not sure what to do with the armadillo, sure could use the catapult and mole chair, sign me up.

how many weeks you think that adds to the build? Not my intention, but when you get a tatoo artist and say "dont do this" I suspect radaronwheels is ready to kick us off the forums

Nick, I love that you love it. Everybody here respects your opinion. I admit to being old enough to know better, but I also may just paint my truck black as it came from the factory. I get a bit of a pass, I have a truck and if it is loaded with lumber and dirty at the same time, they not going to hit me as hard as a car with dirt on it Paint it pink if you want, one poster here used the chalkboard paint so people could write on his car. I really like this idea. The most important thing here, Take your time and enjoy the process. One thing I worry about, I see it happen to others, you get to be too much of a perfectionist, is going to cost money and project is delayed and eventually abandoned. JUST GET ER DID! and then move on to the next project. ..... girls, they are often sneaky and sometimes a bigger project then first thought .... building a 32 ford coupe could be easier. Keep us posted.

Probably best if you do not get ideas about tatoo'ing a tree in the wood, like this guy did

If only there was some sort of T molding made of rubber, you could fasten it to the sides of the wood, top would sit on the wood while sealing up against the bed sides. This would keep it looking clean on the edges.

just grabbed this off of facebook more food for thought

I did not realize we needed access under the floor. The angle strips will not work. But a clean line always looks good. Just like a 1/4" reveal on trim, it is expected. You do not need a 1/4, a 1/8" gap along the edges would look great. I would not over think it and just leave a gap you are comfortable with. The bigger the gap the easier it is to lift it up .... could even go with some sort of strip of rubber over the wood to seal it to the bed sides, just to keep the dirt out. You know the dirt is going to accumulate there, will need to lift the floor to clean it ... no big deal but maybe you could make it easier if you think about cleaning while building?

I am partial to natural oil. Goes on clear, but the wood ages and gets a natural patina. It is not instant gratification, for example pine, looks white and blah. But in 6 months it starts to get color, 1 year it is "wow thats pretty cool" couple years down the road, it has a color you cant really duplicate with stain. And the wood you have is already beautiful, I personally would not try to add color to change it. And even more important when I was working, I tried to keep everybody using the same natural so it was easier for me doing touch up Sounds like your plan is fine, leave some room so it can expand/contract with weather, the shovel strips will cover the gaps, drill your holes slightly larger then the bolts so they can expand. When you lock it down tight, then it has a better chance to buckle and crack. On the edges from factory is a strip of angle attached to the side of bed and the wood slides under it, acts the same as a shovel strip and allows you to leave a gap.