dpollo

1950 was a change year for distributors. Early production used the IGS identified by its bigger cap and counterweighted rotor used from about 39 to mid 50 Later production used the IAT smaller cap non weighted rotor same up to 59 and beyond

Whether the choke is in front 217 - 230 or behind 218 228 236 and 251, the adjustment is critical and it is outlined in detail in the shop manual. In case you don't have one follow the steps below: 1 remove air cleaner and block the throttle about 1/4 open 2 insert locking pin to lock shaft....this must fit snugly .. a drill bit of the right size is perfect 3 loosen clamp on lever and push lever upward 'til the choke butterfly is closed tight 4 tighten clamp, remove locking pin and check for free operation. It is not considered good practice to lube these parts If all is well, the electrical solenoid will close the choke, and only when the engine is being started from cold. You are cautioned not to use too long a screw where the wire fastens on as it will bottom out and of course the asbestos gasket (pad) must be under the choke unit and in good shape. Let us all know if there is a source for new ones.

These handles were hard to get 50 years ago, but they fit 50 ,51 and 52 all models except Station wagon. The 52s used a push to latch setup but the handle was the same .

Similar frustrations. I have a 50 Plymouth rear axle in my 35. I installed 48 Desoto 3.7 -1 gears (complete set) to replace the 3.9 that I have been running. Much to my dismay there is no oil filler plug. Caught the mistake early on and drilled a plug hole. One has to wonder if these running changes were improvements or did some diabolical engineer put them there just to annoy us ? I also have a 3.7 R&P gears only. I was hoping to fit them to a carrier which had 3.9s. I will be extra careful after reading about your problems.

I can supply that part (used) send me a PM with your address and I will mail one to you for a very small amount over the postage.

Thank you, I did try to post a picture of my 51 convert but will have to go to manage attachments and reduce the kbs. I have never accepted overhead valves let alone electronic marvels. I use the excuse that I was born in the first half of the last century, Pretty lame, but it works for me.

Not all transmissions used them. I have seen them on high gear synchros only and second gear synchros only. I cannot recall if I have seen them in both high and second. It makes me think that they may have been installed only if there was a problem.

If you hook the armature terminal to a negative lead and positive to the case, the generator will "motor". There will be enough residual magnetism in the field poles to allow this to happen. If it worked when removed and has been kept dry, it will very likely work when you reinstall it. It is always a good idea to Polarize the unit which simply amounts to brushing the armature stud with a wire from the negative side of the battery ( on Pos. Ground Cars) Mostly all these units ever needed was brushes, so check them for adequate length . You need only remove the cover to do this.

If I am not mistaken, the colour is called Opal Gray # 4154 on the body tag if the car is early production or 4204 if later. Dulux code DU 4 It is an easy colour to match having a mix of about 2/3 white, 1/3 black and a little orange. Thanks for posting the pictures. That is something I have not yet learned to do.

It is not the same. I am not familiar with the Chrysler, but on the Plymouth, (42 -48 ) the high beam indicator holds the top of the cluster to the dash. It is not necessary to remove the cluster to change bulbs. That does not mean changing bulbs is easy.

the cluster has three 3/8 head nuts on studs , Two are near the bottom to the right of center and one about half way up the left hand side Then there are two alignment studs which push into rubber grommets These are above and flanking the speedometer, They are like the hood latch pin but much smaller so they may be difficult to remove from the rubber grommets. It is best accessed by removing the radio panel. which must be removed in any case.

Boring a 218 +.060 does not make it a 251 far from it. Sorry if that was what I implied. You are only using 251 pistons when you bore .060 and beyond. The stroke of a 218 is 4 1/16. a 251 is 4 1/2 , so the increase in displacement is largely due to the longer stroke. In my 51 Plymouth I have bored it to just under 3 1/2 which is 3 7/16 + .060 and it uses the 251 crank and rods so the displacement is now 260 cubic inches. With 8.5 to 1 compression it is a very good performer and at 50 000 miles of use, it still runs like a champ ! Should I ever replace this engine I will go to 3 7/16 but use the original 218 crank and rods because I like the way these engines can be "wound up ". Chances are though, I will not ever need to change it out. It also has Overdrive, a VERY pleasing option for highway travel. One should never believe what someone says about his sex life or his gas mileage, but I can get over 25 mpg on a highway run. As for the other, no comment.

Neil Riddle advertises in the Plymouth Bulletin I don't know if he is on this site but there are other Washington residents with 51-2 Plymouths on here. I have added another difference to the above list. All these variations did not make the cars better, just different but it was nice as teenagers to be able to drop a Chrysler 251 right in without any modifications. I rode in one with a 265 Chrysler six and was very impressed. I later built one and put it in a 50 for a friend. He tore up 2 clutches and a transmission but we are still friends. The nicest running of all the flathead sixes, in my opinion is the 3 3/8 bore x 4 1/16 stroke 218 when it is bored .060 ( 3 7/16 ) They run really smooth and can be revved up higher than the longer stroke models.

By all means let's see some more pictures.

Send your real name and postal address via a personal message and I will mail you the good one if you will then upon receipt send me $2 to cover the mailer envelope and the postage.

Here are somethings you may not know. Canadian cars use a different frame so the steering box mounts further forward to clear the longer engine. The steering column and shaft are longer. The front springs are heavier and the king pins have roller bearings at the top. The radiator is different with the upper hose entering on an angle. Horns are different since there is less room in the space behind the grille. The brake drums have a different profile making it impossible to mount the wire wheel optional for 52 and later on the rear. These drums will interchange with US models. The air filter is wider and lower and there is no filter in the road draft tube. Canadian Cranbrooks in 51 and 52 use the rocker moulding and gravel shields used on the 50s. The original colours were subtly different from US models and the inner surface of the trunk was painted body colour in Canada. Generally speaking, cars sold in the USA had higher levels of trim and options although everything was available, just more expensive in Canada. My Cranbrook Convertible sold new in Victoria BC for $3485 with no heater or turn signals. That is almost $1000 more than a similar car delivered in the USA . FOB Detroit was $2222. I do not know what FOB Windsor was.

I have never found any variations in passenger car kingpin service kits 46 to 54 . The only difference in design I have found is that Canadian cars have a needle bearing upper bushing possibly due to the slightly heavier engine. Trucks are quite another matter.

I know exactly what you mean and once thought if I ever have to make these, I would start with a tubeless tire valve. I have a dashboard loose in the attic of my shop and will look to see if it still has these grommets. Chances are, though that they will be pretty well aged. *************************************************************************************************************************************** I managed to take one out but the other tore. They are too brittle to be viable , sorry.

There is a special "fixture" for adjusting pressure plates but I have never had to use one. I was told if the three arms are at the same height, leave it alone ! Since yours is already apart, perhaps you can set it up with a new disc using a flywheel or the driven plate to serve as a "fixture" As far as I know, this pressure plate is the same as the Plymouth ( without fluid drive)

Rings would have been easy to get if American parts books recognized the engine. Hastings # 804 If it is the original block it will carry the engine # beginning P23 ............. . this number will be also stamped exactly 13 inches behind the rear axle on the left frame rail. The original bore size was 3 3/8, stroke 4 1/16 . Nowadays a popular rebore for this engine is + .o6o which is 3 7/16, the standard Chrysler 251 bore size. Your engine uses the same gaskets, bearings and seals as the Chrysler and Desoto. as for the universals, they are the same as a 55 Chev........Numbers , depending on the brand , Neapco 1-0153 comes to mind. Easy to get provided you do not ask for joints for a 51 Plymouth. Better check underneath since they went back to using Detroit joints for '52. The cross type were 46 to 51. I highly recommend the Plymouth Owners Club and also Neil Riddle in Seattle area is a good source for parts. Bremerton is not very far from where I live and lots of Canucks worked in the shipyards there so maybe that is how your car got down there. Good swap meet in Bremerton, too.

Thanks Bob for your many pictures. Somehow I always confused New York with New York City and your photography has set me straight. Time to get my 40 out for a run too. dp

Now that is a really good question. Short answer..... a split exhaust sounds great. and while that may be a feeble attempt at humor here is another. Sometimes when valves get sticky more than one is open. It surely fouls up performance !

If it is a Canadian car, the serial number will begin with a 9. This number is found on the left front door pillar just above the hinge. There will be an aluminum tag on the firewall with the body number paint and trim codes. Also it will have the 25 inch 218. It will also use Spicer cross and roller U-jointe same as Chev later used in the 55-6-7 models and there are a number of other differences. The picture you posted shows a pretty nice car. They are really nice cars to drive, I have had several, the present one being a convertible.

Sure you can, but if you are looking for more compression start with one which gives you the best ratio to begin with. However, a very effective way to raise compression is to use a 218 head on a 230. The 218 chamber is smaller. At this late date many engines have been through the rebuilding process, some more than once so it might be important to identify your starting point. You can measure the overall thickness of the head from the gasket surface to the bolt bosses and this could reveal how many times the head has been resurfaced already. I believed the starting point was 2 inches but going out to measure several before I wrote this I found some variation + and - .040.

The two barrels used from 55 to 59 are quite rare. I have one on a 218 in my 35 Plymouth and it works quite well. The intake is different but it fits the same exhaust manifold as the single barrel. I have not tried it but it looks like the two barrel from a 273 would fit. Maybe too much carb for my 218. An easy way to identify the head used from 57 to 59 is the small hole for the temp gauge sender, although a parts book would be better.