dpollo

The floor shift from earlier models will fit this transmission and the 39s featured an electric kick down. It was only installed in Plymouths built for export but could be found in Chryslers and Desotos in USA and Canada

These rear ends are very strong compared to the competition. A friend had a 322 Buick with all standard Plymouth running gear in his 41 Plymouth and had no problems. I have twisted off two left rear axles in 50 years and I cannot say it was not due to abuse but both breaks had been there for years. If the parking brake is not an issue I would give the original diff a try.

I built a 265 which we installed in a 50 Plymouth. The torque on get away would noticeably lift the left front..... not off the ground..... but very satisfying acceleration in a family four door. This car had a 3.9 -1 rear end. Piston travel is pretty extreme to allow this engine to be a high rev. I would recommend widening and deepening the grooves in the main bearings to increase oil flow to the rods and to a certain extent increase throw off to the cylinder walls. This can be done in a lathe using two center main caps fastened to a face plate to hold the shells then reaching in with a boring tool.

All's well that ends well, and nothing runs nicer than a good Plymouth six.

The three inches short inside the door will likely not matter much but the manner in which the channel fastens to the door may give trouble if it is short. If you can use a sheet metal screw which will bury itself deep in the fuzzy part, it might work out ok. The best option would be to use the correct length , saving the shorter pieces for a future project with smaller glass.

You can get it out but Rich has the best advice. Likely you will twist off some screws but with a bit of heat the stub ends usually thread right out. Makes it easier the next time when you may want to remove the transmission. Been there done that.... . I owned a 37 Plymouth for 30 years.

If you want to boost compression on a 251, install a head from a Canadian Plymouth 218. The chambers are smaller in order to achieve 7 to 1 compression with a 3 3/8 bore 4 1/16 stroke. The only heads with SPITFIRE cast into them that I have seen were on 49 Chryslers and they were about 7 to 1. on a 251 engine. Other 251 and 265 engines had plain looking heads but if you check a parts book, you will see that they are different according to engine displacement. If you are looking to a SPITFIRE head for anything other than looks, you will be disappointed.

Yup ! I put five litres of fresh oil in but neglected to drain the old oil out. I wasn't born dumb, I have to work at it !

just in case you cannot read the thumbnails, put the crankshaft at TDC according to the timing mark hold the oil pump just as you would to install it. Looking down at the shaft end, line up the distributor drive slot with the bolt holes then turn the gear exactly one tooth anti clockwise and install pump.

A customer of mine, now deceased, drove her 49 Desoto from Vancouver Island to Washington DC and back in the mid 90s. Only trouble en route was a leaky front brake cylinder, Another tour member repaired it in a parking lot and there were no further problems. The next trip she took was to Alaska and this did not turn out so well. The steering shaft broke about a foot above the worm gear. I felt sick when I heard about it, but this was a part of the car I never had worked on. There was no damage to the car despite its winding up down an embankment. It was towed to Prince George BC where a replacement steering box was installed then driven back home to Victoria. I still cringe when I think about that shaft failure which I attribute to a long ago collision on the left front and possible misalignment of the steering column. It is something I always check when reassembling a car or truck of this era.

I will have to try the trunk key. I have a number of GB locks without keys so here is a quest for a rainy afternoon. dp

Starter, generator and flywheel should all fit , carb may work but earlier models did not have the beveled air cleaner clamp and a 251 will need more carburetor than a 218. You may also need the front sump oil pan and pick up tube. You will be amazed at the compatibility of parts but the newer pieces will work better since some changes were made to improve performance.

Interesting topic. I have always had a "thing" for locks and keys so all my cars now have authentic key sets. My first 35 Plymouth had a round ignition key with Plymouth written on it. The second one is octagonal as was my 37 as do all the rest 50, 51, and 52. Glove box locks are round and it is not difficult to make such a key operate the gas cap as well. There may be only two tumblers in these very simple locks.

51 Plymouth convertible July 1990 Vancouver Island to Calgary Alberta , South to Montana, through Glacier Park into Idaho, to Coeur d"Alene, back up to Hwy 2 into Washington then I-5 back to BC 2000 miles, no problems Same car, numerous trips down I-5 from BC to Oregon. 700 miles return . No problems. Same car June 2015 Coquihalla Highway into North Okanagan BC Hottest day of the year to date. Temperature gauge pretty close to H. but no boil-over or starting issues. No problems, total trip 700 miles. Overdrive equipped but locked it out on mountain grades. Good fuel mileage , never added oil. carry spare parts like fuel pump, water pump and points&condenser but have had no need of any. Car has 152 000 miles total, 50 000 now on engine. which is a Canadian 57 Plymouth 251 with 8.5-1 compression.

Perhaps not the final word but I think you have the right idea now. One further point, The valve seats will be just fine as long as they are still serviceable. They will handle unleaded fuel. I did an engine many years ago for a customer who was using his 50 Ply. as a daily car Rebore, reground crank, touched up the valves and seats. It ran 70 000 miles on unleaded gas before a tree fell on the car. The engine was removed, top end checked for wear ( it was OK ) and installed in another car and is still running well at 80 000 + miles. This is more than the average life of a new engine, so valve seat recession is not likely to be a problem. Good luck and good going in your "newly rebuilt " Plymouth.

P A is quite correct and there is nothing to be gained by getting anyone's back up.

I agree with Bones and PA. sleeve it and bore to match the others. This will be a lot cheaper than any other alternatives and it is a permanent repair. As you suggested, you have too much invested to press on as is and wind up with a stinker. As to actual cost, it has been some time since I have sleeved anything, but you need only one. I cannot see the extra work costing more than $150. The shop should cut you some slack here since someone chose the wrong oversize or bored one cylinder too big. Too late to point any fingers but fair is fair.

When the parts were new, the intake stood proud of the exhaust flanges by a very small amount. This allowed the intake to be tight while allowing for some movement on the outer end of the exhaust. Just make sure you draw all the nuts and bolts up evenly and be sure to use the correct washers especially the brass ones on the exhaust . If they are not available , use a flat washer which will allow some expansion and contraction. The intake does not use washers on the drilled holes, the other fastening points use a thick slightly cupped washer. The post following this gives more good advice. In my original post, there was an error about washer use my apologies for not proofreading.

I think that switch will do the job but first , why not have a look at your transmission and see it there is a hexagonal plug between the shift rails and the tailshaft extension. On 49 and up this is where a back up light switch was placed. I am not sure if 46-8 had that option.

Now that is a profound question ! I am inclined to agree with Plymouthy Adams' explanation but I have always wondered about the Flying Zero on the 51 Chrysler's hood ornament. The Coat of Arms you pictured is a nice piece of art compared to the over simplified one used on the Omni.

some people know how to have fun ! Congratulations.

That certainly looks like it, and it should operate the brakes you are talking about.

depending on what you want or need for brakes, you might consider the double cylinder with single reservoir that operated both clutch and brake in the early 60s Chev truck. From a modern safety perspective it does not have much to offer though. The slave cylinder from this set up would operate the clutch really well. Can't fault your choice of engine.... it is fun to be different.

That radiator appears to be from a passenger car such as a 51-52 Dodge Plymouth or Desoto Diplomat with the long (25 inch engine) such as those built in Canada. The curve is to clear the fan blades and the off set top connection accommodated the upper hose from a fitting which points straight up from the engine head. The part # is not one I am familiar with, possibly an Australian supplier? Truck radiators had 3 mounting holes each side.

Dodge and Plymouth differ from Chrysler and Desoto . Prewar dipsticks on Chrysler and Desoto as well as the Canadian engine have a flare on the end of the tube which contacts a felt washer on the dipstick's upper end to keep dirt out. Post war Chrysler and Desoto and Canadian engines have a straight tube threaded at the bottom end (3/8 pipe) and the stick itself has a cap which fits over the tube. for a 49, you would be looking for the stick and tube from the 25 inch block 46 to 54.