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Leroy_47_Plymouth

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Leroy_47_Plymouth last won the day on August 4 2016

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pelham, NH
  • Interests
    Artist, wood working, vivariums/terrariums, sand blast etch glass & mirror, computers, match covers, antiques, crafts, Halloween costume competition, salt water coral reef aquariums, electrical/mechanical build, cooking/baking
  • My Project Cars
    1947 Plymouth

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    charga1@yahoo.com

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  • Location
    Lowell,Mass

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  1. K will read the manual on the procedure to adjust the brakes
  2. Guess I have my next big project ahead going with the master cylinder, brakes lines, wheel cylinders and brake hoses.
  3. No I didn't take the cover off while the engine was running. Common sense told me the filter box is under pressure while the engine is running.
  4. The car sits in a garage/storage for 16 years and I find the brake pedal is to the floor. There's no sign of brake fluid under the car. Car gets flat bedded to my house and work on engine begins and finishes. Brakes next so master cylinder is opened and bone dry, how I'm not sure but ready to see and find a leak.....major. Fill the cylinder pump the pedal, fluid drops down, look for leak......nothing. Add more fluid, screw on master cylinder cover and pump the hell out of the break pedal and wait for a seal to pop or a line.....something, nothing. So I'll take the next step and get ready to bleed the brakes. Pull out the manual and review the brake system/bleeding next
  5. This is a 2 parter: 1) Will be doing a first oil and filter change on newly acquired 47 P15 SD which I was informed the filter within the filter body is a Fram C-134A which if that's what's installed then naturally follow suit with what's already installed.....tho not necessary. Finding a Fram C-134A for a 53-59 Plymouth 6 w/auto tranny available but not ready to pull the trigger on it....yet. Finding I can use an LPM L-134 or a Purolator P-70FF. Any input as to what to use as a replacement or what you guys use, and a ball park dollar figure or what is the norm price paid for a decent filter? I'm figuring about $22-$25. 2) To get a look at filter installed in the filter body and removing the cover the oil began over flowing. Tightened it back down. So somehow there's an oil pressure build up so some where some how I must relieve the pressure or catch the oil so over flow on the starter below doesn't get an oil soaking and a driveway oil slick. What's the best/right procedure to git er done right? Thanks in advance.....
  6. After weeding thru all posts and links I was able to get the engine running. I had fuel, compression and spark. My issue even tho everything was evident I had to inspect the distributor for firing on cylinder/spark plug 1. I used the ping pong ball approach till no. 1 compression was up and watching my harmonic balancer to be close to TDC. All spark plugs out I turned the fan with tension on belt for TDC. Rotor was at 7:00 at no 1 on the cap. Noticed the points gap was extremely wide. Didn't gauge it but close to .40. I reset the points gap on the high lobe to .20. Put it all back together and numerous attempts to run engine. Found it's best to pump gas and hold pedal to floor. The engine showed it wanted to run. Soon after many attempts it started. This engine is a rebuild in 2001 and has not been run since after rebuild. It smoked for 15 to 20 minutes knowing I had poured some marvel mystery oil in each cylinder. After 1/2 hour of running the exhaust was clear. It was relieved the engine runs which now allows me to move onto other work needed.
  7. How would i know if and when #6 is on exhaust TDC. Scuse the pun, not using my xray vision today.
  8. I'm doing this alone. I have no one to crank the engine as i stick my thumb in a hole.
  9. Confused more than ever........first off i'm doing this solo.....no help at all. Second i have no brakes, no registration, no insurance. And what the hell is a dizzy tower??? I'm no stranger to what I'm up against so I'm going to have to filter all the above.
  10. Define a static timing procedure? Tho I will Google/Bing the procedure. I just got my rebuilt carb later in the day yesterday since I felt previous one had issues with able to supply fuel. Today I'll do what I posted. Wanted to get nod of approval I'm in the right direction. Static timing is to be looked into.
  11. Now that I have my fuel situation taken care of, rebuilt carb on the 47 Plymouth flat head 6 and fuel is present in spray down the carb vent the engine won't start. I did however at one time had it running as the wife helped to turn it over as I poured gas down the carb and ran for 10 seconds, but ran real rough since it hadn't run since 2001. In the process it's killing a brand new 6 volt battery. I have a spare coil and checked for spark at no. 1 plug and it was there. I'm going to pull the distributer cap off and get no.1 piston to top dead center by removing plug, check harmonic balancer timing mark and with a long 1/4 dowel check piston for TDC. Check distributer for no 1 firing at 7 o'clock. Firing order of 1-5-3-6-2-4. Question: the firing order on the engine itself no.1 being first from water pump and the rest of the firing order consecutively 5 3 6 2 4 so i can check each plug wire to each spark plug. What's the plug gap for spark plug and gap for points on the high lobe of distrubuter. Thru this whole process the new battery (and yes it's at positive ground) has driained and been recharged.
  12. Paid a visit at an old hardware store where everyone in the city knows you can find any hardware you're looking for. A brief browse in the place and a point in the right direction after a quick description of the soon to be modified ferule I found a brass nipple that had the right stuff for the job. I was able to cut and grind/file to size as I needed to fit into the flaired 5/16 gas line and to the tank with the right length I cut at .407 bored open to .234. Filled the tank with approx 8 gallons of gas. I covered the gas filler with a heavy duty tape, cut a hole and blew in 45 psi of air to fill the line and the glass bowl of the fuel pump. My next task is getting the engine to run. A second carb I have is out for rebuild. With all the advice and help it was all taken into consideration. The ferule is installed, no leaks. Onto the next task to get the Plymouth running since 2001.
  13. Ok update after a trip to both Home Depot and Lowes. Seems the stores here in NH don't carry the metal ferule nor the plastic one. I have 2 other alternatives. There's a hardware store in Mass that been in business in the city I grew up in since 1920's. They carry every piece of hardware under sun, moon and stars of every grade. And I have a parts store in Washington state with the NOS. I'm no stranger to chasing down parts. They great part are the people I meet in my travels.
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