rallyace

The way the filter works is that once there is enough oil pressure to open the bypass valve it will direct oil to the filter. It sounds like one of the inverted flare fittings is leaking. It is not a difficult fix but it can be a real PITA getting the steel lines to fit up properly and starting the fittings without cross threading them.

Is your vacuum advance working properly? Is the vacuum line connected to the carb and not to the manifold?

When I rebuilt my 218 a couple of years ago I had three tubes and four dipsticks. I knew that the tube and stick on the engine were not correct so I did exactly what Sniper says and then I swapped parts until I found the correct combination of tube and dipstick.

Sorry, that one is sitting in my garage right now.

Don't rely on dimensions. The oil pans and the dip stick tubes are not all the same so the most positive way to assure you have the correct amount of oil in the engine is to drain it and then add exactly the correct amount of oil. Then you can be assured that when you adjust your dipstick it is reading correctly.

Parts are readily available for most things. As far as the glass is concerned, they are flat glass panels. Any competent glass shop should be able to make them. Weatherstripping and such is available from Steel Rubber in North Carolina. The best places for parts are Andy Bernbaum and Roberts, both are in the Boston area. You probably will not find carpet as these cars had rubber floor mats. You have found one of the best sources of information here on old Mopars, you may want to join the Plymouth club. The folks with old Mopars are more than glad to share their knowledge.

One thing we all have to remember is that modern fuels are less dense than the fuels from 70+ years ago. Add in a bit of ethanol and they become even less dense. Because of this we need to set the float a bit lower than spec. I set mine on my B+B about 3/32" lower than spec. Without getting too technical here, a floating body (the carb float) displaces its own weight. In a lower density fuel it will sit lower and it takes more fuel in the bowl to raise it to the point where it will shut off the fuel inlet. This can create a situation where the bowl overfills and we have gas leaking all over the carb, engine, and even worse, over the hot exhaust manifold. Set it a bit lower and it will transmit more force against the needle and stop the fuel before it overflows the bowl.

Yes, they are different widths. As far as using other brand sleeves, we tried that at work and were very disappointed with the quality of the parts. They look the same but we had trouble with some of them deforming while installing them.

Looking for a source and part number for the speedi-sleeve for a 51 Plymouth differential pinion shaft. SKF shows about 6 different ones for a 1.875 inch shaft. I have a bad leak and want to make sure that I have all of the parts on hand when I start the repair.

Who is the manufacturer of the oil that you quoted? While I don't dispute what is there, is it one manufacturer that says this or all of them? My information is from having conversations with lubrication engineers we brought in to study issues we were having with premature failures of industrial gearboxes. They are the ones that told me about how relatively low amounts of use, additive issues, and moisture from condensation having a corrosive effect on the red metals and soft metals used in our industrial gearboxes, especially the ones we had that were over 60 years old. I asked them about use in older transmissions and they said to always use whatever the box was designed for as that will give the best results. They also told me that newer is not always better. This is the basis of my comments.

OK, here is the issue with GL-1 vs other oils. The newer oils were designed to work with syncros made of harder materials so they could handle the higher torque and compressive forces within newer design transmissions. The problem is that the additives, over time, become a corrosive to the brass, bronze and other soft metals used in our transmissions. It is not the mechanical qualities of the newer oils that is the issue, it is the chemical makeup that is not conducive to our transmissions.

I agree with Tod. Check to make sure that the wires to the points and condenser are not shorting out when the vacuum advance moves. It is not an unusual happenstance. Check the braided wire as it is uninsulated and flexes with the advance. Sometimes a loose wrap with electrical tape will solve the problem.

I have found that there are two grades of connectors. The ones you get at the hardware store or auto parts supplier are not the same quality you get from an electrical supply house or industrial supplier. Over the years I did a fair amount of industrial control work and amassed a large supply of connectors. Alas, since I retired and spent more time on cars, my supply is dwindling.

Greg, you are ahead of me. I hope to get Daisy out of storage in the next few days. I, too, have had a few things get in the way of getting her out and about. Mike

The issue with the newer 535 flashers is that they are electronic and they are designed for use on a negative ground system. If you can find an old thermal 6 volt flasher, get it. They are not partial to positive or negative ground.

Now we have a challenge. Let's see if we can get more cars for the P-15 Picnic USA (ok, it is in Canada this year).

I will never purchase another Pertronix unit. Several years ago I got stranded in the middle lane of I-81 in my MGB on a Friday of a holiday weekend in rush hour traffic (could it get any worse?). I was lucky as a very astute semi driver noticed that I had immediately lost power and blocked traffic so I could get to the shoulder. Dead Pertronix unit and the jerks at Pertronix took 2 months to confirm it was dead and another month to refund my money. Several folks in our MG club also confirmed that they have had issues with Pertronix. Once upon a time they were great, now they are junk. Points, when properly adjusted and maintained, have worked for decades so there is nothing wrong with having a points ignition.

I checked with them. The original formula goes back quite a few years but was not heavily caffeinated and had less orange in it. Pepsi bought it in 1964 and worked with the military to raise the caffeine level in it. The challenge was to jack up the caffeine without the bitter after taste it left in your mouth.

My friends that worked for Pepsi told me that Mountain Dew was first developed for the US military as back in the Viet Nam days they had lots of folks who would not drink coffee but would guzzle a couple gallons of soft drinks. Thus the high amount of caffeine in Mountain Dew to keep them awake.

If you have never been to one of the P-15 Picnics, take the time to attend. A great time with some great folks and always every year they find a new place to explore. If you have never been to the Niagara Frontier or the falls, it is an amazing place and the Canadian side has the best views of the falls.

The system is not pressurized so use a vented, non pressure cap. NAPA should have one.

When I rebuilt my 218 CI engine a couple of years ago it smoked a bit for the first 300 or so miles. It now has about 5,000 miles on it with no issues.

I had a local truck driveline shop build a new balanced driveshaft with Spicer U-joints. It cost me about $300 a couple of years ago. it took them two days to build it using my old trunion style driveshaft as a template. In my humble opinion it was well worth the cost.

When you have the marks properly aligned where does the distributor point and are the crank and valves properly timed?. If I recall correctly, the distributor location is a function of how the oil pump is installed. It sounds to me like the oil pump and distributor need to be retimed.

Carb Doctor https://carbkitsource.com/kits/ck0002.html