Sharps40

Should be this one. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/poly-armour-pvf-steel-brake-line-adapter-3-16-x-8-3-8-24-inverted-7-16-24-inverted-paa-r340/22190038-P

hang on

Chevy trucks have had 1/4 to 3/16 reduction at the rear axle for years. In fact, you can find short lengths of hard line with fittings to make the transition at any auto parts store. I just put the adapter line, 6" or so, on the input side of the rear axle rubber brake line and plumb 3/16 hard line to the rear cylinders.

That is priceless information. Dont tell grant cause they'll charge more under a new mopar parts lisiting!

Unobstructed path.

Today is the first time we have seen Ol Bessy assembled since she was hit by a drunk way back in 1992. She is looking GRAND! (Even in her first rough assembly.) Hard to believe we are on the final leg of a journey that started in 1957 when Dad bought her for $50 with hopes of one day having a V8 in her. Now she sports a 21st century 315 horse mill and quite soon, all the creature comforts of a modern automobile. (Power steering, independent suspension, power disc brakes, Air Conditioning, Tilt Wheel, 4 speed automatic overdrive and she'll still look just like she did 82 years ago.) And, I think my home made aluminum grill surround looks pretty good too!

well, then Id go back to pulling it all and checking relaxed arch and swing/binding in the shackels. Also compair old leaves to new, etc, perhaps one old spring was dearched a bit for a bent frame, etc. you problem is likely in the last change you made to the rear of the car.

They honeycomb/cellular radiators have the same tubes as the fin and tube rads. Just can't see em as well till the top is off. So, yes, you can rod out a cellular/honeycomb radiator. The water moves through tubes just like a modern radiator but the outward appearance of a honeycomb/cellualar radiator would make one think it moves through millions of tiny chambers. As for whether or not.....its going to a newly rebulilt engine????, then, yep, rod out the radiator and if it is thin or fails, rebuild it or replace it.

is one spring installed backwards?

if the bottom hose cool, you have no flow or impeded flow. start with the obvious and reachable stuff..... thermosat stuck or slow, radiator plugged/unsolder and rod it out, water pump not working, replace it. Rest is inside and harder to work, so, consider working outside in.

Stitch it with crack screws. Easy to access. Permanent. Or stick weld with the new room temp (no pre heating) cast iron welding rods.

Copy. Ill advise on the axle when we pick it up.

Op. Pm me for phone number. . I live in nc. Currently up in va taking care of mom but have a 37 dodge in the shop here. Dont need the rear axle and hoping to get time to grab it for parting out. Shop is moving and i asked them to hold it so i can pick up...we have to work out the details but it should still be waiting for me as they are still moving the restorations to the new building. You are welcome to some or all of it for the cost of your gas to come to nc and pick it up. Its complete hub to hub and 4.1 to 1 ratio. Not sure what fits what but thats just a research issue. We can chat details on the phone.

If you havel to grind it split the difference

grease would be lovely, clean grease on clean gears best but.....wd40 wont hurt the worm gears and it will penetrate into the axle bores that are also dry/gunked/sticky and can't be reached with grease. If nothing else, wd40 will at clean off 80 odd years of dried grease and dirt that is likely more wearing on the gear teeth than running dry or with a light oil only like wd40.

Have to get to the gears from the back. Squoosh em with WD40 or SillyKone if necessary, prolly need a long straw and a flashlight.

Was the engine running and coolant leaked into the crankcase? If so, might consider tearing it down and redoing all the bearings.

kick start it with a 12v battery or similar starter pack jump. 9 weeks with no start and you are cranking it hard, the old school not so much in the guts department 6v battery firing through ancient wires to a stiff starter probably can't send enough juice to get it sparking good.

dash dosn't have to be out to remove it, but if it ain't broke, don't pull it. Do find a complete replacement in good condition. Especially the tape or build up one good spare from many parts cars. The major wear is the gears, they are zinc/pot metal. Can always stand a spray cleaning and perhaps a squirt of white grease from a sqoosh tubed aerosol can. I had mine out, cleaned it, greased it, its a bear to get to but dooable if you can work upside down for a good bit. I also pulled a complete and functional spare from a parts car before I listed all the other parts for sale. What I'm seeing on the aftermarket is one fella that advertises new made units on AACA, they look to be poor quality, at least visually. But, since its only one fella making them, not much room to choose really. I think I read a couple folks bought them and the center shaft ain't long enough to put the hand crank on.

Check the valve guides for proper installation and assemble it. Would be nice to have seen the guides and cam bearings go in to validate correct installation and clearances but probably about you can do is look down in the appropriate open valve to see if the guides are installed one up one down. Run it in if you can, either way, pickle it and close off all the openings till you're ready to use it.

Nope, just not a lot of coverage/visibility like you get in other places. I sold a manifold on here once. Other than that, hemmings and hamb are the prime movers of parts.

I stopped posting parts ads here. Sells faster on HAMB, Craigslist and Hemming's.

Agreed. Having looked through yet another series of trash the op posts, its the same fellas creating 92% of the butt-grease again. Too bad, another new member shot in the face for asking how to achieve his goals with his car. OP, Good Luck, a 350 is a solid motor for your car and modern traffic requirements. Enjoy, and if ya please, post a pic or two once its installed. (My 37 is getting a 5.7 Vortec and 4l60E so I can go anywhere and so wife can drive it....hmmmmmm....sounds familiar. I even posted about it but never got the shxty welcome you got for your question. Sorry bout that. Hope you come back some.)