Sharps40

10 psi per thousand rpm is pretty much the gold standard/recommendation. 5 psi idling warm is the low end. (Most modern engines shut down below 5 psi at warm idle to save the bearings/engine).

Big hi volume fan blowing through the radiator the entire time its running. Often when breaking in run is being accomplished, motors run hotter and having that 10 to 15 mph of extra air can help you get the 20 minute job done without boiling over.

Mostly I have found a few bits about old car parts. If big and or heavy, it'll sit a long time even for free since no one wants to drive up to get it. After a few months, I take the heavies (engine blocks, cranks, cams, rods, transmissions, wheels/axles/drums) to the recycler for scrap price. If its trim, it'll likely sell but they'll want it cheeper regardless of how you price it. If its glass, throw it away, no one wants it and it invariably breaks in shipment. Use what you need. Focus sale or gifting on your local area. In 20 years I had one guy out of town come to get parts.....he drove from NY to NC to get $300 worth of fenders that would have cost $600 to ship (bulky, not heavy). All the rest went either to local fellas (local as in in-state) and/or to the recycler. If you can't sell it cheep or give it away in a year, no one wants it. And now that I've mentioned the junk man, I spect the flames will begin!

See......told ya 18 was too much!

18 initial is way too much advance for any inline 6 in stock or near stock form. I know.....broke two pistons that way due to pinging/detonation. Call Tom, but I'll suspect your mechanical advance is bringing in 20 degrees or so plus another 10 on the can. Easy enough to check by simply measuring and marking your harmonic balancer. With a flattie, set your initial 0 to 6 and maybe up to 8 degrees (conservative) advance, check for pinging and kick back on the hot restarts (from your post you still have ping and kickback at start up even at 12 initial.) and if all is well, go enjoy the smoother operation and greater power an HEI provides. but stay outta the Big Fat double digit initial advance numbers. You should not need more than 8 initial on a stockish flattie (not race prepped) and will live long and prosper staying in the single diget initial advance.

Exactly.

DrDoctor. All is well. The shop working over dads 37 has it in hand. My guess is we'll use a header and they will wind up a good shot down to the rack with no worries. If not, one of the boxes will help. I'll let them handle dads 37. I'm retiring in a few months and I'll probably scrounge up another old 37 Dodge 4 door or truck for my retirement ride and set it up with a 292 with 3 weber 34mm single barrels, also looking over a slant 6 in a mopar too but mayby go v8 with a 283 with 2 weber 38/38s on a tri carb manifold (since there really are no 2x2 manifolds laying around for a small block). decisions....decisions.....But, won't be able to talk about it on HAMB cause weber ict's and 38/38s might be too new and make em all nervous and twitchy! All in good fun though. HAMB is a good place to find and sell parts and look at pics for ideas, I just have to blot out any parts of my dads build photos that show the evil LS motor or the very scary Mustang II front suspension! I saw a 37 dodge with an early 426 hemi in it. Fit was tight. Sure sounded good and got down the road nice too!

Yep!

Its just a mopar. Made in prodigious quantity to be driven. If they get rare and collectible next month someone will buy it from you and restore it. Until that unlikely event do what you want with it.

Nope, HAMB boys are afraid of "modern technology" and in particular MII suspensions, LS engines and way too many very good overdrive automatic transmissions. Here there is a good mix of original and the new and a willingness to be open to both ideas.

As for querying LS motor and 4l60e swaps on the HAMB, your thread will eventually be deleted as they are very much against the discussion of any parts/technology newer than 1965. Been there done that. Not the friendliest bunch unless you are trying to build something that uses ancient technology.

I don't know what your frame width is in the 48 but my 37 is receiving the exact same swap. 5.3LS/4L60E. 37 Dodge Floor, will need a new hump for the tranny bell housing.....tranny fits nicely between the X member and Driveshaft loop if a bit tight. Mine needed the fire wall cut out and moved back about 5 or so inches to leave room for the fan and factory style radiator. As for the engine, we put mounts on the dodge frame and used a fatman cross member for suspension, engine pan clears with the motor set back into the firewall. The narrow factory boxed frame of the 37 needed notching and steel fill to mount the motor mounts on both sides. The PS side of the frame at the fatman cross member needed notching to clearance items that are mounted on the engine in the area of the timing cover, about 7 o'clock as you look at the face of the motor. The PS side of the fatman cross member also needed notching and fill to clearance those same protuberances on the timing cover. Additionally, the Driver side frame (37 Dodge) will not clear the LS factory exhaust as the flange lies within 1/2 of the top center of the DS frame rail. We are investigating headers/other options. Finally, using a tilt steering column, it comes out just behind the DS head of the LS Engine when using the factory location at the dash. Not sure if we will shift the column further to the drivers side or use a gear and chain drive box to transfer rotation down and over so we can access the rack and pinion and clear the exhaust. If you are using the factory suspension and the steering box is behind the suspension (e.g. close to your feet), expect additional interference with the DS exhaust system. The LS motors are a bit wider than the GM small blocks and I see, at least with the 37, they sit a noticeable amount lower between the frame rails.

Kind of a general rule of thumb with these....streetable hopped up 218 kinda emulates a factory 230 which when hopped up mild kinda emulates a factory 250ish, etc...... So, power.....not so much compared to putting in just about any more modern engine. But, good weber carbs or efi when pared with real electronic ignition (not pertonix) and a smooth and steady 12v alternator.....that'll make a solid flat head start easy, run smooth and pull just a bit harder, sort of bring out the best a flathead in good condition has to offer. In any event, stock motor or hopped, you will get your best performance benefits from changing the rear gear and paring it up with an overdrive transmission. If i was working towards an efficient daily driver with a flathead, i'd move by spending my money and time back to front putting ot first where it'll do the most good.

This is an original 37 DPCD cellular radiator. Not how different it is from whats in the nose of your new rod.

OP....received your email on the part and responded with phone number. From your photos above, that is not an original 37/38 DPCD radiator. Appears to be a new style replacement (or adapted from another newer model car - note the cut up bracketry on the side and cap in the wrong spot) with a much smaller thinner core than the original cellular radiator had. As to whether it'll cool your v8, you'll just have to see.

Probably run factory brake or clutch pedal to operate the brakes. Gas will likely be simple cable pedal, not sure if this ls is throttle by cable or throttle by signal. ..... signal will be simplest. Steering column is still being vetted, working exhaust first, then we'll finalize the column/shafts and/or offset drive gears.

Nope. Overbuild all cooling systems. Then you can idle across death vally in august with the ac on. Once and done. But thats a typical size fan for an ls motor

Bling going on......

ok. Test ad is up and paid for. Got the confirmation message. Now I'll put in the content!.....thanks for the help. Busting rusty bolts is a bit easier than this web stuff.

Ok.....making the attempt again.......had the song wrong too but thats about par for the course.....

anybody cracked the code yet on how to pay $4.99 to run one? Even with help from p15d24 i'll be dayumed if i can find a "pay it now" button. Would like to sell some parts cheep but this old brain is probably going to need screen shot of step by step instructions with each "glossy color photo covered in numbered circles and arrows with descriptions....." al la the Arlo Guthry song, "I don't want a pickle......."