_shel_ny

Plymouth pictures are not great. Window reflections were a problem. 1) Front window of the maintenance facility. 2) Rear view of the facility with the parking lot where the dealership was located on Layafette St.. PD building on the far right. 3) Rear view of Maintenance facility, and PD building located in the center of the pic. Looking to the northeast these two parking lots should have encompassed the entire dealership. 4) Front view. Hard to see black hood. The rest is white. 5) Side view 6) View from Oriskany St. while passing by. I may try to give this another shot with some gloom to reduce reflections. Not sure if the would allow me to access the building.

The seller is Bernbaum's ebay site

Will be in the area several times in the next few weeks. Jury duty will place me a few blocks from there. I wasn't sure what the car was, but that is the one that I saw on Google earth. I will see what I can do about pics, but as I said all the buildings on Layafette St are gone. Don't like leaving a camera in my truck. Not sure how picky they are about going into the jury room with a camera Grand jury, not trial, so probably not an issue.

Aluminum foil is also handy when painting. Fits in some spots better. Wraps around well. Leaves no residue. Does not pull the paint up.

I believe I have located some good views of the site on google earth. As a reference point to help in the search there is a Fisher auto parts at 327 Layafette St. . 324 would have been very close to that on the opposite side. That area is now the location of a Utica PD vehicle maintenance facility, and just back from that is the Utica Police Department building. The Layafette end of the 2 properties are both parking lots, so all the dealership buildings have been torn down. Neat thing is that when I went around to the view of the other end of the maintenance building from "street view" on Oriskany St. I can see what appears to be a white 40's vintage PD vehicle sitting like a showroom window display. I may have to venture closer to give it a look. It appears that I can park in the side lot and walk around to the front.

Drove right by there Thursday. Traveling from the court house headed to Harbor Freight

Loosen hidden bolt on bottom of distributor for more movement.

Be sure to tilt the engine to one side so that your MMO gets to the piston. As the valves are right under the spark plug hole tilting will result in less leaking out of a cylinder that has an open/partially open valve.

May be what you need. ebay listing. 370747790334 I got one from them a few years back. Was happy with purchase. Says already open, so they will probably take a pic for you to see if it is correct, and/or has the gasket you need. Probably extra stuff you don't need, but better than $30 for a NAPA kit

If a search has not shown this, after the hooking has failed to persuade it to come out for some, they have gone to thin flat stock down the side between the block, and the tube. Puts some crush on it to break loose. Some have had to get theirs out in pieces.

So very strange. I just put one of those out by the road today. Shaft is longer, but they could be twins. Awaiting the scrap pickers about 8 cents a pound now. Sitting there with a dash, steering column jacket (outer tube) and a gas tank.

J at the river Edit oops too slow looking for the pic. I bow to Tod

My parts book shows a different # for front and rear. The rear MoPar # is 854049 ( 2 per vehicle) For 11" brakes: Dodge 1942-54 Chrysler, DeSoto 1940-54 Edit: front # 854059 (4 per vehicle) Dodge 1942-54 Chrysler, DeSoto 1953-54 (but may be 46-55) Edit 2: add photo Available site advertisers Bernbaum, Roberts. ------ Ebay fmmpar old.parts

Quoted from the interweb: opinions vary . Of course just because it is on the web does not make it true. Nor does it make it false. ""I guess you just can't assume that people stop and think about these things... The mist thing... Well, misting it is just fine (but too da.....easy), but back in the day we just filled a cup of water, revved the engine and dribbled the water into the carb. Why it works... Along the way from the cup to the combustion chamber, the water is joined by its buddies, fuel and air. Upon reaching the combustion chamber, the fuel and air perform an erogenous feat called combustion. This excites the water to the point of instantaneous vaporization. When this happens (as I assumed all knew) the volume of the water expands. Since it's instantaneous it shatters the carbon deposits and all the participants then try their damnedest to pop out your exhaust. Does it hurt? Undoubtedly for the carbon, your motor loves it, just don't dump a whole cup in at once."" And: "Yes, I have done this in the past. A few times. It does work, as illustrated by the knowlegable posts preceeding this one. A mist of water injected into the air stream and sucked into the combustion chamber will, upon ignition of the air/fuel mixture, explosively turn into steam. This does indeed have the effect of quite literally steam cleaning the carbon deposits from the piston face as well as the faces of the valves. The heat of the combustion chamber will completely eliminate any danger of rust from the components exposed to the vapors. The best technique is to manually open the butterflies while spraying the water into the carb opening (works with TPI systems also). If the volume of water is a little bit excessive it will cause the engine rpms to drop, but by controlling the butterflies with your fingers you can prevent the engine from dying. Just back off on the water spray for a few seconds and let the idle speed return. Keep the idle speed up to around 1000 or so."

Now saying it's rod related, but if you want to check that route, it has been posted here before, to isolate the possible problem location by taking 1 plug wire off at a time to see if that changes the noise. With the plug wire off there is no firing of the individual cylinder reducing the load/stress on that cylinder/piston/rod/bearing. Take one off. Try it. Put back on. Take another off. Try it .................... Take off/put on with the engine not running unless you have the proper insulated tool to do it with the engine running. Also I would remove the wire at the distributor end to reduce the chance of stray arcs/sparks.

While in the distributor, make sure all the little screws that hold stuff are snug. Especially the condenser. Swap in a spare condenser? Not sure if a condenser can be the cause of an intermittent problem, or if they just fail completely. Don't drop the little screw that holds the condenser. I dropped one down in while out on the road in the late 60's/early 70's. Good thing I had company along that was smart enough to pull a dizzy to dump the screw out, and get it back in the correct place.

another thread: http://p15-d24.com/topic/32046-fuel-pump-life-span/

Can stake the pin, or replace with a pin with clips to prevent movement. Recent thread on truck side about the pin. http://p15-d24.com/topic/41295-the-pinthe-pin/

Lots of failures associated with the pin working out of the arm that rides on the cam. You may want to pull the pump out and see if that is the case before you buy a new pump.

P 42-59; D 33-59 PISTON & PIN, .020, W/ 6 CYL (SA 986903, 1241624) 954805

Rods come in different lengths, but a piece of 5/32 scrap stock could be bent to size to meet your individual needs. You could use a piece of 8 gauge copper wire to make a test rod, then work some stiffer stock once you get a pattern that suits your application.

As Niel said. Pull the plugs. Then you can easily turn the engine to line up the fill/drain plug in the fluid coupling by using the fan. Keep the belt tight with 1 hand to prevent slippage. Turn the engine by the fan with your other hand. At this point you have run out of hands to turn the engine the other way to get them loose, so DO NOT allow fingers to be pinched between the belt, and the pulley while turning.

Same as the responses to request on 28 Jan, and 24 May. And again, heed the advice to use GL-1 in the transmission. If you have trouble finding your previous posts : Hover on your name in the upper right corner. ("your profile" will appear) Click on your name. A window will open. Click on "my content" to see previous posts.

That one in the downloads appears to be the truck design. Opens OK for me from download page. Link from earlier post in this thread is broken because of site updated. This should get you there. http://p15-d24.com/files/file/42-fuel-pump-heat-shield-template/ Are you looking for truck, or car? Car would be different.

Bernbaum shows bypass elbow $39.50 One on ebay showing for truck "may" work Vintage Auto Parts Inc. lists it $26.95 http://www.vapinc.com/mopar/main.html If you have an Army friend maybe they could order 1 for you. May be National stock number 2930-00-358-5988