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Thanks for the screw removal correction. Any that I have removed just slid back after the screw was loosened. They all had a slot rather than just a hole. That is why I suggested just to loosen the screw, so it would not be a fight to get the screw back up through the dash hole, and into the switch. I guess there has to be an exception made on everything for the '49

Look up from below. Should be a phillips screw. just loosen, then push switch and cylinder toward firewall EDIT: add pic

Probably different holes for different fuel pumps/vehicles.

Mark the cross bars in order of the position from which they are removed. I do not believe that they are all the same.

Presented as an alternative to attaching to the non-reinforced wall, and get a longer cable The thought of the "dead man anchor" goes back to 1968, and a story during basic training at Lackland AFB.

Dead man anchor in back yard. Run cable through garage wall. Sleeve the hole with 1/2" iron pipe to reduce wear on the wall. Use come-a-long or portable electric winch attached to the cable with a clevis.

Look at your carb to see what kind you have. Carter, or Stromberg.

Passenger Car parts List MoPar 1954 and prior lists: Book not all inclusive as you have a mounted mirror. Mirrors list in section 23, and also in section 1, which is accessories. My book does not show the listings in section 1 for mirrors before 1953.

Passenger Car parts List MoPar 1954 and prior lists: 1 high note. 1 low note. Edit; transposed 54 45

Added the pic of the choke just in case, as it is also a spring loaded gizmo You can read up on the heat riser operation in your service manual.

My dwell meter did not work correctly on my D24. Readings were unquestionably wrong when hooked up one way, and nonexistent the other way. I found a vintage Sears dwell meter on ebay.

My guess is the spring loaded gizmo is actually on the right side of the block. Heat riser? Does a P19 have a sisson automatic choke?

Diagram, and pic in post 9 may help. http://p15-d24.com/topic/26838-need-help-with-horn-assembly/page-2?hl=+horn%20+ring%20+spring

You have provided no link to the site, or the item. When posting you can first click on "preview post" to see what others will see before you click on "add reply". This is also a good thing to do when you are adding photos. Allows you to see what is there, and if it is too large, or too small. ie 900kb pic 9kb pic You get the "preview post" by clicking on the "more reply options" block.

there is a section ---forum-- for such. A part of this website. That is where Ed suggested to post http://p15-d24.com/forum/26-ebay-craigslist-and-external-site-referrals/

And then at this point the OP has not elaborated on the gen. issue, so we do not know what the issue actually is.

If the vehicle sat for 30 + years is it possible that the generator needs to be polarized ??????

Just my opinion, may not be of much value, and should be taken at that level. I am not a believer in "the sky is falling, the sky is falling" scenario. Your build up did not sound like it was that bad. No mention of thick gray (indicating lead) deposits in the galley. You can flush that area with your preferred internal (not suggesting engine degreaser) engine cleaning solution, and let it drain to the pan. That's where it goes from there. I would drain the oil before doing that, and let it all run out as you go. If we go with the idea that detergent oil should not be used in an older engine, then there are thousands of engines out there (many right here on the forum) that are facing impending doom from the change over. It has been theorized here before that considering the fact that detergent oil has been around for quite some time a lot of owners actually started using detergent oil years, and years ago. So unless you know for a fact that detergent oil never started being used then there is a real possibility that it was. Maybe the light build up that you had shows it was not used. Perhaps there will be some comments on that. If your engine has a filter, or if you add one, (and personally I would add one) anything loosened up by detergent will soon be filtered out. I agree that it is a fact that the bypass filter does not get the oil before it hits the working parts of the engine, but it does not take long before all the oil makes it through the filter. Some do not run a filter, and just do frequent oil changes. In the case of this engine I would use a filter and get things cleaned out. I may be off base, but considering that you have cleaned the pan, and the valve galley, I don't think that there is anything in there, that serious, awaiting re-circulation, that out weighs the good achieved by switching to detergent oil to clean it up, and keep it clean. Even without adding a filter it will start to clean up as the dirty goes out with the oil change rather than settling back in.

While you are there, and have access to the valve cover go ahead and pull them to see what needs cleaning in there. Simple thing to go now. only harm you can do is if you get ham fisted putting them back on and bend them. EDIT: Also, good time to check the cold valve tappet clearance while you are in the area.

89 Dakota wheels with 235/15's already mounted and balanced gave me some solid footing on the rear of my 48 Dodge. Spacers were needed to keep the rub off the inboard side due to the back spacing issue that Greg mentioned. .

Some paint details: http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/reference/d24_reference_.html Scroll down. Under hood colors probably carried over

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How you want it to look. And How you don't want it to look.

Same top guy, but 2 different businesses, so they are likely not linked together to see you as one customer. If it were a "one man operation" that may have been seen, and possible adjustments/credits made. Unfortunate on the shipping charges, but at least you now know for future reference.

First would be to see if there is any gear lube in there.