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Bump !!!!!!!!!!!

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I used the KD 700 to remove many valves, and was satisfied with the results.

This pic may or may not be worth as much as 20 words, but the pic, and the Plymouthy instructions together may add up....... EDIT: note...the fitting, and check valve are not installed in the pic. As Plymouthy stated, the clip holds the float pin. Shiny pin end visible below the clip on the left side.

collectors auto supply $70 EDIT: ruztycarz ebay had one. did not sell. can contact seller. may still have Or just try some springs from the hardware store ams obsolete as ebay fmmpar has one or more. need to contact

Uneven wear.

dye, or the interior surface rust removal test of the drum may only show some of the story. If the shoes are not square to the drum it will be readily evident when you pull the drum back off after testing as there would be areas untouched, but it may not be readily evident as to how well the shoe is arced to the drum other than how much transfer from drum to shoe is seen. The chalking of the shoes that has been suggested to the OP, and also suggested to others by the OP should be a good test. OP has referenced the post made in another thread about bleeding brakes. As bleeding, and adjustment are interdependent for good braking, including the spongy ?/soft? problem would also be helpful here in this thread to take some of the guesswork out of what is going on Playing 20 questions takes a long time.

With the seat mounting holes visible in the pics, chances are that the seats were not yet reinstalled

More suggestions. JIPJOBXX Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar! Members 52 2,846 posts ID: 5 Posted May 25, 2009 · Report post I think your overcompensating the oust of the tool. All you are trying to do is to get the shoes inside the drum to fit. If its anything like I have done at work than just do a sweep of the drum (Inside Diameter) and then take that tool and take a sweep of the shoes in place. All you are trying to do is to get the shoes to match as much surface area on the inside of the drum. Plain and simple don't over think the tool. Some guys here just cut a window in an old drum and use feeler gages to get the shoes to fit. I used just a tool I made at home to get the shoes in a concentric round patter and then installed my drums. You can also check after you have gotten your brake shoes concentrick with the drum with chalk to see how the shoes match to the drums. Good luck!!!!

Or:

And if you have the time , and fortitude you can check out the brake fix here:

OP stated in a post years back that he had 90% shoe/drum contact. OP asked how to check contact before. Same answers should still apply:

Sneak them and the mods don't notice, even if they respond. Selective eyesight

$4003

Check the content of this member for lots of brake repair ideas JIPJOBXX

Diagram in the download section.

http://p15-d24.com/search/?&q=stockinteriors.com

Recent posts talk of a down shifting problem, solenoid, relay................ So what does Norm have????

one is a 7mm set. one 8.5mm both cut to length by installer buy 1 set of the $25 wires, and you will probably see it will work fine on either truck. Other parts stores have universal sets. Rock auto sells the wires individually if desired. Many different lengths for under $2 each.

There is a paint chart in the reference section of this site, but you may need to use the Plymouth colors, as the hood shown in the pic is not a D24 Edit:http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/reference/p15_reference.html/ PLYM http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/reference/d24_reference_.html/ Dodge

Don, that looks like 90 proof rather than brake fluid

Advantage of the one man is just that, one man. Advantage of a two person method is that of the visual aspect of seeing that air bubbles are no longer being expelled from the system. Tough to see that right rear cylinder As for cleaner, I don't get that part at all. Hose in a jar by itself, or hose in a jar with me watching it does not seem to differ much along the lines of clean. Edit: have done it both ways. Just this week I moved a container with hoses attached to each end while rearranging in the garage. Last bleed I did was also a one person, but on that I used a vacuum bleeder at each cylinder.

I found this behind one of my freeze plugs.

No answer for the tops, but I would not install any until all are out, and a complete flush top to bottom is done.

Had a 1973 Dodge B-100 van with a slant 6. Swapped the engine out one winter. (outside) I don't remember why. It had a sometime vibration before the swap. Not the reason for the swap. Still had it after the swap. Annoying vibration, but not horrible, any not all the time. Years down the road. Spun a bearing, or maybe more than one. Replaced some bearings out in the yard. Ran it more miles. More time passed. While returning from NY to Michigan from leave after leaving a Thruway stop while getting back up to speed the oil pressure light came on. I was able to make it to a friends house to leave the van. Rented a car to return to Michigan, and looked for an engine. Found a Plymouth Duster with a frame that was giving up as a donor vehicle. Had grand visions of driving it back to NY to swap out the engine. That plan fell through as the rust out proved to be to much for the front suspension to keep the tires from rubbing in places where they should not. Borrowed a Toyota Landrover, and towed the van back to Michigan. Did the engine swap on base at the auto hobby shop. No more vibration. Difference was that this time I swapped the car engine flywheel, clutch disk, and pressure plate along with the engine. I was going to keep the larger clutch and pressure plate that was in the van, but just did the straight swap even though it was smaller.