_shel_ny

It's an on/off situation. If controlled by a knob or cable it is the same. Turn knob- moves lever on top. My understanding...........The vacuum pulls the internals to a certain point where a port is uncovered reversing the vacuum pull direction. Paddle in the wiper reaches the limit in the other direction, and it starts over again.

guess I have my preferences set up differently. I am set up to see new posts since last visit. (selected at far left) Mine always opens to P15-D24 (by my choice, as that would be my primary area of interest) I do not have " " marks on the left , but rather a dark round mark (dot) for threads with a new post the I have not read. Lighter dot if I have read the post. For threads that I have made a post in there is a dark star if I have not read new entries. Lighter star if I am up to date on my reading. Clicking on the dark dot, or star takes me to(or close to) the latest entry. Sometimes large pics in the thread seem to interfere with getting to the actual latest entry. After I read what may interest me there, I select " View New Content", up high on the right to see if there is any other new stuff I want to look at from the other forums. I guess there is more than one way to skin a cat, but that's the way I do it.

Probably the only place that pieces of cork will get stuck are in the thermostat (probably just temporary depending upon the size of the pieces), or in the top of the radiator where the coolant attempts to flow down to cool.(there again probably only temporary while running, as the cork should float back up when the engine is shut off) If you are not concerned with those areas possibly getting plugged start it up, and give it a run. Also could get stuck in the heater core if you have one.

http://p15-d24.com/index.php?app=core&module=search&section=search&do=search&fromsearch=1 Tried to link forum search results, but it did not work. There are 5-6 results for a search of Arthur Gould on the forums. Did not know that the Rock Auto $34 Gates 42554 pump would not fit a DeSoto. What is special about the DeSoto?

If not already packed / shipped, I would ask the seller to a partial refund, and have him keep all the parts.

bump

As that is the same seller, the pic probably would look much the same. Seller absorbs the shipping cost on the ebay listing, and ebay seller must recoup seller fees charged by ebay/paypal

Tissue, or masking tape over the hole. Tape less likely to get sucked into the hole. Tissue would burn when you get fire, but who wants to keep going to find another tissue after it gets sucked into the #1 cylinder

With the spark plugs out you can easily turn the engine by hand using the fan belt. An in-line spark tester can be use to determine if you are getting a spark from the proper dizzy tower (7 towers on the distributor. 1 for wire from coil. 6 for wires going to the plugs.)

click, then scroll down for static timing http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/tech_tips.html

http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/reference/maintenance.html

I used one somewhat like Don's except with the wheel on the end to crank on once the tool is positioned.

Try # 815118 at Home Depot in Salem, or Nashua

Unless I knew the condition of all tires, wheel bearings, rear axles, and differential a flat tow, or a dolly would not be my choice for a tow of any great distance. Even then I would be hesitant.

Would not expect HD/Lowe's to carry the metal ferrule, but very off that they do not have the Hillman nylon spacer in the pull out drawers in the hardware section. There is a spacer assortment online with ship to store $4.98 EDIT: not sure what sizes in it. I will try to find the part #. Had a pic, and also posted it here in the past, but I think the search only goes 2 years now. EDIT: Lowe's may have dropped those 2 packs in the US. Seems Lowe's Canada may have.

You can make a ferrule from a nylon spacer from Lowe's. Just need to bevel the ends to match the angle of the fitting. The I.D. is smaller, but I ran one for several years with no fuel starvation issues.

You may find that there will not be enough shaft to put a hose clamp on. The pic that I posted was just to show where it ended up. I don't think the shaft extends that far. I suppose you could weld/braise some square stock to the end to make it longer. Drill a hole, and use a cotter pin, or roll pin.

I do not think there is a spacer between handle and housing. (none on my salvage part) If you have not already tried it, I think you will find that 90% of what you see as "loose" will be eliminated when the handle, and housing are mounted with the handle shaft in the trunk latch. There is a spring washer behind the crimp ferrule, but without being installed in the trunk latch it does little to eliminate "loose".

It is as Andydodge says. This thread is for a door handle, but the concept is the same. It has a good explanation, and pics in post #7. http://p15-d24.com/topic/40340-door-handle-disassembly-question/?hl=%20door%20%20handle%20%20chrome

Pretty expensive wash, and oil for 1950. Using an online calculator, in today's dollars that was a $60 wash and polish, with $4 a quart oil. Edit: and a $29 thermostat

Just bear in mind that some sourcing this part have received a spring that either was wound the wrong way, or not made of the correct material to result in proper operation. I believe the vendor addressed the problem to satisfaction. Not pointing, not naming names. Right the first time is always better Search this site, or someone may chime in with their story.

Just the 2 lower bolts that go through the xmission need to be removed. Front also may have a sheet metal dust cover attached with 2 small bolts if you have not already removed it..

ditto to what he said, and the why: Most lubricants for manual gearboxes and differentials contain extreme pressure (EP) additives and antiwear additives to cope with the sliding action of hypoid bevel gears. EP additives which contain phosphorus/sulfur compounds are corrosive to yellow metals such as the copper and/or brass used in bushings and synchronizers; the GL1 class of gear oils does not contain any EP additives and thus finds use in applications which contain parts made of yellow metals.

Parts book pic: column 1 Plym

A 1948 D24 speedo cable bracket can be seen here in the upper right just below the throttle cable.