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I believe you will find that is the new owner at A.B.'s

https://www.google.com/search?q=upholstery+brush&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

From the parts book. Drum and hub sub: pic 1 Left and right difference being the thread difference left hand vs right hand. drum and hub will fit either side. Drum only: pic 2 Some Dodge (Wayfarer ?) had 10" drums 49 and up. Be sure to get the 11"

Same happened to me when I attempted to salvage a set for a forum member. Maybe heat would solve that issue??

I used SL130 from NAPA. $7.30 back in 2010. Had to bend the bracket to mount it.

The gear lube that I have run across has a very distinctive smell (read stench). Much different than the smell of motor oil. You may be able to decide what it had by pulling the drain, or fill plug if you don't remember that different smell before installing the transmission.

Seems that in 49 the Dodge manual listed SAE 10-W for both the Gyromatic, and the plain old 3 speed transmission. 1948 and earlier the manual called for a gear lube in the 3 speed. Same transmission, but a different recommendation. Good advice from Greg on the Gl-1 if that is what yours uses. You should probably replace it with whatever was in there before if you were not having any issues. I think some have reported spinning too freely with 10-W oil in warm weather causing gear gnashing 1st and reverse. Others may have reported gear lube too thick when cold causing gear gnashing as things were still moving when they should stop.

1948 Dodge. Standard 3 speed transmission. Fluid drive. When I did my gasket I did not cut that hole out. (you might note that I actually forgot to cut out 1 of the bolt holes.) There was no problem with it blocking anything. There was no hole in the bell housing that aligned with that hole. I had no shifting problems. The gasket that was in there had no hole cut out for that spot. Oops, that was a lie. (see edit 1, and 4th pic) Edit 1: Original gasket had a hole. (4th pic) My first replacement gasket did not have a hole. Edit 2: Oops again. Crossed out the wrong line last night

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Hover on individual name. Click find content. Then scroll a bit

This may help: http://p15-d24.com/topic/39295-pulling-car-a-few-feet/

Nice thing with Photobucket is you can have a nice big pic. One thing to remember with posting a link to your Photobucket pic is that if you move the pic in the album it will no longer work from here as you would like it to. Not that it matters, but as a rule in general, I do not click on links if it can be avoided.

Make a copy of your photos. Use "paint" to reduce the copy to a size that you can post. Before posting, use preview to see if are too small, or overfill the screen.

As the car is upside down, you should be able to just shake it a bit to get stuff to drop off Sorry, could not resist Do not have an answer your question. Someone helpful will chime in with an answer.

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Proper clearance for brake shoes is .006. Minor adjustment is needed as more miles are put on the vehicle.

Just as a note. A 1949 second series is S13-S for Deluxe, and S13-C for the Custom.

To locate the fluid drive fill plug you will need to get under the floor mat on the transmission hump on the passengers side. There should be a small cover there somewhat like the cover over the master cylinder. Removing that cover will allow you access to the plug/cover in the bell housing. Removing the plug/cover in the bell housing will reveal the fluid coupling. Fluid coupling must be rotated until it reveals the threaded plug. To drain it the plug must be removed. Either use a siphon to get the fluid out, of rotate and let it drain (read as spill) out the bottom. After drained rotate the fluid coupling until the hole in the coupling again aligns with the access hole in the bell housing. Fill per your manual until fluid is at the level of the plug. Edit: spelling EDIT 2: let me add that this is not an endorsement to change the fluid. Just the "how to" as an answer to the OP ?

Your tick going away with the gauge inserted , then coming back could be caused by a cupped tappet (wear in the center). Gauge bridges the gap, Quiet. Pull it out. Noise back. Others have posted that finding here. One consolation is you probably won't burn a valve when it's ticking. loose better than tight. EDIT: and if you find that is the problem, I have some that I can pull from a block that is headed for the scrap heap. You can have them for the cost of shipping. PM me if you need/want some. May be a day or two delay digging out the valve spring tool, and getting to the block.

If you adjusted well, and the wheels are not locking up maybe they will wear in quickly without problems.

If you were able to properly adjust the brakes with the Ammco tool the pins are likely not a problem. What some have run into with longer pins is that they can not get the drums back on over the shoes. EDIT: Now that you have extra pins, you could take a bit off the end of your pins if you feel that they are a problem.

deleted- op no fluid coupling

That is your clutch re;ease bearing. Clips onto the end of the clutch fork.

Dash knob controlled the map light on my 48. Not sure if 49 has a knob to do that.

The top and side levers work together to give you 3 forward, and 1 reverse gear. You probably don't have a problem. Don't worry about it for now. Someone will come on and explain how they operate. It isn't like one controls 1st and reverse, and the other 2nd, and 3rd. They work together.