MBF

Nice looking truck!

I have a 52 parts truck that had a column shifted 3 speed in it. I sold the transmission out of it, but it appeared to have the same bolt pattern on the mounting ears as the 3 speed floor shifted in my 49 1 ton. The folks here are right about the possibility of having to change the bellhousing if you currently have a 4 speed drilled only for that type of transmission. I've wondered if someone here could tell if the top cover from a column shifted 3 speed would work on the top of a floor shifted 3 speed. If that is possible, it would allow you to use your existing transmission and you'd just have to come up with the linkage. Maybe someone here can shed some light. Mike

Mike-I've got a 52 half ton chassis that you could mount your cab on. No engine or trans, just front and rear axles, and some tired sheet metal. I was up in your neck of the woods over the weekend at the Ballston Spa truck show. There were several PH trucks there. Mike

Thanks guys. The fronts are the same as my 1 ton. I opened it up yesterday 1 1/4" and 1 3/8" cups. I'm hoping the rears are the same. On my 1 ton, the lefts were the same p/n, and the rights were too. The only difference I see is the orientation of the larger cylinder bore to the rear on both sides-so the lefts are the mirror images of those on the right side. Mike

The master looks just like the one on my 1 ton so the rebuild kit may be the same. The two ton has a vacuum booster that has just been replaced, and supposedly the rear wheels were done too. I'm hoping the front whl cyls are the same as the 1 ton. I've got spares from the recent replacement I did on the 1 ton. I'll send them out to have them sleeved if they are. I just need a cap. Mike

Yup-what Paul said! It may fit, but the spokes of the horn ring won't line up with the spokes of the wheel if you have a wheel from the PH series. Mike

I've got a leaky front whl cyl on the 2 ton that I just bought. Does anyone know what size bore(s) these are? Going to try a rebuild if not badly pitted. The truck was sitting inside in storage for a long period of time before I bought it. Also-does anyone know of a source for the large sized master cylinder fill cap? Mike

Looks really good-I like stuff that you can finish up in a night! Love that wheel spinner too! Mike

I've only had 1 truck that had the column shift, and I've got a couple of columns from floor shifted trucks. I think they're identical except for the holes in the top of the tube where the pivot mounts for the shift lever. Mike

I don't know of anyone that makes these, but you may want to check clearance between the bottom of your door and the top of the ridges on the running board. I don't know if there is enough room for anything other than a flat step guard. Mike

You may also want to try a machine shop that does engine rebuilds. They use sources that go by size, not application. Might save you some $$$

Check for a fuel leak under the hood to see if something started leaking. Could be simple as a leaky sediment bowl gasket, or a broken bowl. If you smell it's when it is idling you may get by with an idle mixture adjustment-but that shouldn't change by itself. I'd suspect the needle valve, float/seat asm may be the problem. I believe that is an updraft carb on the cabovers correct? If so, that will be a different carb and probably require a different kit to do the overhaul. Mike

I bought mine at NAPA. Roberts also sells a 3 pc kit including the 2 front flex lines. Mike

I did the same thing with my 1 ton a couple of years ago. I'm going to have to do the same thing with the 2 ton that I just bought. Mike

Anything can be done for a price, but I think it'd be easier to find a good or rebuilt 6V generator. A 12 volt gen shouldn't be used w a 6 volt system. While I haven't tried this, I believe you're going to fry bulbs, your fuel guage, and maybe even your battery. As far as the amps-converting to a 12V system-the amp flow will be half that of the old 6 volt system. If you're wiring harness is in good shape (insulation not cracking or frayed) it would be fine to use with the higher voltage system. One of the problems with double filament bulbs, is that some of the 6 volt fixtures use a bulb with the two base prongs on the lamp directly opposite of each other rather than at the staggered height of the 12v counterparts. On my 36 Plymouth, I just ground off one of the prongs, and made sure I had the bulb installed so that the brighter filament was for the brakelight, and the dimmer filament for tail lamps. Mike

Thanks-at this point she's still a 25 footer. I don't know why they painted over the original paint, but its really nice starting out with something that isn't worn out, or that needs structural rust repair. I've already been looking for a flatbed to replace the dump body, and I'd like to find some 8:25 x 20 tires on rims to replace at least two of the rear tires. I'm having fun, and looking forward to taking her out on the road before the snow flies. Mike

Having maintained a fleet of over 500 electric vehicles (fork lifts, electric tow vehicles, wire guided VNA trucks, etc) for many years, I can tell you that this isn't as easy as some folks think it is. Yes, the current electronic control systems are far more advanced than they used to be, but to combine that with an internal combustion system into a hybrid will require an electrical engineer to make it work. Getting the two systems to talk to each other, and more importantly to work effectively together is going to be a problem. Converting a ph truck to a hybrid is not going to be cost effective. The engineering required will be far more costly than any advertised fuel savings. Batteries don't like cold. Having said that-take the plugs out and drive it around on the starter until just before the batt goes dead, put the plugs back in and start it up and you'll have a crude hybrid!

I made some progress over the Labor Day weekend. I started cleaning out the cab, and buffed out the paint, then painted the bumper and front wheels. A little more orange peal than I was expecting in the paint, but this truck sure is solid. I've got to find a couple of parking lamp assemblies, and locate a 10' flatbed to replace the dump body. Mike

Bought this tonight. Its a 49 ex firetruck w 18K original miles. Just out of long term storage. 5+2, 2 tiny rust spots-super solid. Bringing it home tomorrow night-can't wait to hit it with a buffer. Purrs like a kitten. I have everything that it's missing except the parking lights. Its even got a grill guard! Mike

I did a search and can't find what I'm looking for. Does anyone have a good p/n for the front seals for a 1 ton (6 lug Budd wheel hubs). There is no p/n stamped on the old seal, and I've tried two different p/n's from NAPA based on size. 17617 is close, but a couple thousands too small on the o/d. The next size that they list has an o/d of 2.750 and that is a few thousands too large. Mike

Tires from B-17's and B-29's were used here in the valley on orchard sprayers for quite awhile. When they went flat-they were a bear to break down, and were usually replaced by something newer. Mike

Paul, there are two different switch wiring setups. One is for separate signal lights (front and rear), and the other type is if you plan to use the existing tail/brake lights as the turn signals. The first type operates independently of your parking and tail lamps since there are separate light fixtures at each corner. For combined brake/signal lights, the brake lights are actually routed through the directional signal switch. That is where they are separated to allow one light to blink, and the other to remain lit when the brake switch is closed. I believe the first is a 5 wire setup, and the second is a 7 wire setup. Which type are you planning on using? Mike

I would hook them to the accessory post on the ignition switch so that they can't be accidentily left on- key off = no directionals. I'd also suggest a battery disconnect switch (and use it) especially if you're parking the truck in a structure. Better safe than sorry. Mike

Yup-what Tim said. That's what I ended up doing. Mike

I used a GM internally regulated alternator on both my truck and 36 Plymouth. I can take a picture of the wiring if that will help. Mike