oldmopar
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Everything posted by oldmopar
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They did strange things with titles in the past. While a little newer I just had a headache registering a truck titled in Pa in the early 60's the title did not have any year of manufacture. It only had dodge truck and a serial #. The truck is a 1959 fortunately by the late 50's they started using a year letter in the serial/vin # and I as able to finally get the njdmv to title the truck as a 1959
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Like Dennis I do not really know what a twitter is but I would think if someone was using the group to spam email more of us would be asked to join. Unless they think you are the kind of person who likes to twitter.
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Its called a water pump bypass elbow part # 677223 I think 49 or 50 was the last year they used that before going to the newer style. You could change to the newer style thermostat housing but the newer style thermostat housing used a different pump so I think you will need to change the water pump. If not someone correct me on this if he can still use the old pump.
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The basic instructions from I think from plydo http://oldmopar.com/p15/install318a.jpg http://oldmopar.com/p15/install318B.jpg
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For the steering column you need some a body exhaust manifolds from a 70's 318 like a duster or a dart.
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I think you should go into the leather boot business
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Nice car. Reading the forum is fun but its like being at a party sometimes you have to get up and dance or in this case post Ed
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USPS has delivery confirmation you can not track but it is proof of delivery. I also sell on ebay and every item I send has delivery confirmation. I have had several complaints of not receiving items but after providing ebay with the proof of delivery the buyer suddenly remember he did receive the item.
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Well I have to hope you guys are wrong about the rubber ones from roberts I did 4 boots 2 cars over the winter
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Not sure who has the old leather lace up ones but roberts has the newer style rubber one about $25.00 each.
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Not sure about the trucks but on the cars a 1/2" wratchet without a socket usually fits.
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New cap at NAPA BK7031314 or at the link see other types http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(lcsboo4522rbhsuulz35qazb))/Results.aspx?Ntt=crankcase%20breather&Ntk=Keyword&N=0&Nty=1&D=crankcase%20breather&Dn=0&Dk=1&Dp=3
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I use my air compressor 100 lbs and blow back into the tank. Coat hanger could be a problem if it breaks off in the line
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I think it is a tapered press fit on our cars but on newer cars there is a small rubber o ring. I clean the breather cap with kerosene then you should add a little oil to the filter screen
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The removal tool Norm is describing is sold by sears not sure if they have the patent or if anyone else is selling them. If all else fails you should be able to drill it out and retap or install a replacement plug. Drilling it out would be a little messy but with the problems you are having it is a option to consider. I would use a few drill bits start small and work up.
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pb blaster and if you can get at it with a air gun it will usually removed the bolt but be sure its a good fit or other wise it will round the head quicker then you could with hand tools
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You should have only one side jacked up if both rear wheels are off the ground the axle will turn.
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It may have not been tighten properly when installed
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That distributor is for 57 dodge truck 300 or 58-60 power wagon the ones I have seen like that were for the carburetor with a governor not sure how it would work with the carb you have. What was the number on you old distributer,
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Is the axle nut loose ?
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On my puller where the arm you hit goes a socket fits on like it was a big bolt.
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a slide hammer will pull the axle I do not see how it will remove the drum
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sometime the air shocks are used as a quick fix for weak springs