oldmopar

sounds like it would work although by description it sounds like a piece of tar paper would also work or a thin piece of rubber.

I have a vist like that usually once or twice I a year not sure what kind of birds. I guess its some migratory patten they follow but yes it does look a little eerie and you should not go out without a hat.

As Don Said use all new clutch parts. On the fly wheel you said one is newer. There was a change I think around 56 where the fly wheel has a different tooth count so be sure the flywheel you use matches the starter you have.

I like the autolites 306 in the resistor or 295 no resistor

I have a 62 willys wagon have had it for about 3 years . It has the 226 6 engine which is what that one looks to have. The are easy to work on basically like our old plymouths. The 62 I have has a 4.27 rear not sure about the older one rear could be anywhere from 4.27 to 5.38 so figure on adding a overdrive for highway. some of the older ones had the timpken rears before the switched over to the spicer. I have owned 5 old willys all in the 60's they are faily common here in the east they do have a tendency to rust over the wheel wells and in the rear below the tailgate and the floors and fenders. So since that has been repainted it would be a plus if you could see it. The one nice thing about the willys is many parts interchange and venders supply most every part. Many of the trucks tend to have rust damage on the frames but the wagon frames seem to hold up better. Ed

You could try Restoration specialties http://www.restorationspecialties.com/

Not sure if any vendor has them they do show up at swap meets and ebay from time to time. But you do need to know the measurements 16 or 15 and hubcap size to be sure you get the correct ones.

Very good I need to send that to a few friends

Looks good and the directions with materials is great Ed

I will keep him in mind if I have any technical questions Ed

Here is one of about 4 years ago Ed

It was on craigs list out in central pa

That is true Does it snow where you live ? I do have other vehicles that I can plow with but so far we have been lucky here only about a 1" or 2 of snow so far. I was such a interesting truck tah I just had to buy it. The tow winch also seems to work. I will not be breaking any speed records it has a 4.89 rear but does have 17.5 wheels. I have not had much time to look at it yet but at 1st look it does not seem it will need a whole lot to get up and running.

you can trace the wires in this diagram

Its a 59 w200 4 speed trans with a 230 6, .I bought it off a older person 78 years old who still operates a service station he had it since the early 60's . I has not been on the road in about 10 years although I was able to drive it down the road to test it he was still using it to clear snow.

No scanner but tried a shot with my camera

I have more then enough projects but just had to buy it.

I think I have used the 1080 without a problem my notes are in the garage but pretty sure that is one that will fit. There are different size canisters out there that can be used so depending on which one you have it could make a difference. here is a link to the infor on the napa 1080 http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(kqcsvv45vcdw0jisnzfpzs55))/Detail.aspx?R=FIL1080_0006473344

Depends what it needs if its complete and sheet metal is good a engine is not a big problem its a flat head six like our cars. No title is a big problem in NJ but that depends on your state. You should check the 39-47 dodge truck forums http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/39-47Dodge/

You could try a disconnect switch if you have a minor short that is killing the battery. I also would suggest a optima battery a little expensive but I am happy with mine. Since I am helping you spend your money you could also buy a tickle charger its better then taking a battery to the garage to get charged Ed

You do not need to removed the pin unless there is wear to the shaft which in most cases will not be the problem. As Ed said The boots will go over the pin I have done 2 drive shafts recently and its not real hard just takes some pushing and pulling and the joint and the boot should be well lubed to help it side through the housing. If you can get new caps it is good but I removed and cleaned and repacked the existing needles by hand a little time consuming but have more time then money it worked for me.

They were 3 different spring tensions back when these engines were made not sure if it was to change the pressure or for different vehicles as the engine was used in cars and trucks

Here is a link that may help with your question http://imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/015/Page10.htm

Its best to disassemble and clean the joints while you have the drive shaft down you should do both. The boots I have gotten from roberts seem to be new rubber. The boots do take some effort to install but I have found if you grease the boots and housing prior to installation the go on much easier. While the manual recommends universal joint lube which I do not think is around today I use CV joint lube which should have similar properties. here is a link to the correct way to install its on line at the imperial club you may want to read the whole booklet and print the parts you need http://imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/056/page21.htm

Here is a few links with 6-12 info http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/six12.htm http://www.classictruckshop.com/12volt.php http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Tech/SixVolt.html http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/10si.htm and about 1/2 way down on the tech tips for this websites home page http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar...pframeset.html