oldmopar
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Everything posted by oldmopar
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The existing master cylinder can be rebuilt or replaced. The brakes are always a good place to start below is a link that will give some basic idea what is involved in repairing the brakes and there is much help offered on this board Ed http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar/framesets/wipbrakeframeset.html
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I had a vehicle like that I just had to fill out a change form and bring a photo and pencil tracing of the correct door serial (vin#) and of course pay a fee and was given a new corrected title.
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new guy from chicago with 1940 dodge sedan D14
oldmopar replied to Karl Childers's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Not real sure about the dodge but the plymouths use the same 3 speed manual trans for many years and you get pick one up for less the 100 usually around $50 at least you could a few years ago. So just thinking it may be easier for you just to get another trans. But 1st do as young ed and others suggest and be sure the trans is the problem -
Do not have good information on others but at the link Plymouth model http://oldmopar.com/oldmopar/ply_models.html
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The number is usually dirty,greasy or painted. Most every car I have or have had needed the engine clean up to get a good view of the number. So I could see them not listing it but if you are interested ask the seller for the number. Part of the problem with ebay sales is not enough information offered like the engine # in your case. If you cannot go see the car ask the seller for a phone # and talk to him.
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I good source for xref is a Hollander Manual not online or free but only cost about $50.00 The link below works well for our vehicles https://hollanderinterchange.net/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=29&osCsid=678575d4cdf3a9c36df4ddb3edb55c82
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Can you post a photo of the tool
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The poly armour that rockwood suggested is all my local NAPA has at least in the premade lines that I use and couple together. It does bend easier but on a tight or compund bend I still use a tube bender
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The gas line goes along the front by the crossmember some I have seen them inside,under or outside the radiator but I put the new lines where they are the easiest to get at usually along the inside of front cross member. I did not have a original style gas hose to connect to the fuel pump I just use a short piece of gas hose and a inline filter that screws in the inlet of the fuel pump Napa # 23049. As I recall the fuel line is 5/16 (someone correct me if I am wrong) I used 2 60" and 1 30" preformed lines from napa not sure about the 49 but my 52 has a short rubber hose at the tank.
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I would try the brush on type sealer gasket sealer in the tube. There different type of sealants for different substances. The brush on or tube type sealant should seal the threads better then the tape. Since the silicone does not affect paint the way dot3 does then it may not eat through the sealant. Only other though if you had a big enough tap & die maybe you could clean up the threads on the plug and mc.
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A rebuild kit is about $25.00 and most likely you would have to rebuild what ever carb you ge. So unless yours is damaged or missing you may just want to go ahead and rebuild the one you have try napa# 25066a
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I have a garage like that had it about 3-4 years. Before I got it I a saw a few that had been knocked down by the wind so I added about a 1/2 dozen anchors that screw into the ground and have ratchet straps that attach to the frame. Not the crappy ones that came with it. I think these are used for green house type frames. Its up in the back of my property which is open to the winds if you are surrounded by houses you may be ok but securing it well is something to think about.
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If you check you GPS it may have some infor. The lighter connection for my garmin says input 10-30 VDC max 1A output 4.9-5.25 VDC/1A So the output to the charger seems to be happy with close to 6v but the input wants closer to 12v I do not have enough electronic knowledge to know why but it seems to want more then 6v from the lighter outlet
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Parts will soon be available for any and all applications...
oldmopar replied to David Maxwell's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Maybe make a few wiper knobs and other small items and have the marketing students sell them so it looks like its for the students -
Norms coupe has the has the how to on his site at the link below you have to scroll down a little http://www.indfloorcoating-repair.com/1948plymouthenginerestoration.html
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It looks a smaller bore mc with the larger drum I am guessing the change was at 12" as Dodge used the 1-1/8 mc and wheel cylinders with the d29- d41 with 10" drums and d30-d42 with 11" drums. Ed
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I though I had put the drum size but it is not there so yes the S13 had a 11" drum the S14 & 15 had a 12" drum. also states the the s13 wagon had the 12" drum
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Not sure what they look like but usually the glass lens is held in by trim around the light.
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The Desoto's S14 & S15 used the mc with a 1" bore the S13 used the 1-1/8 , All 3 used 1-1/8 wheel cylinders.
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I would be interested the answer to the bore size vs wheel cylinder I have a mc with a 1" bore that looks new or in great condition but never used it on my Plymouths because I thought the size had to be 1 1/8.
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Yes the body of the starter is the ground
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You really should do the entire brake system if the master failed the other parts may also have problems. With a single cylinder mc if any part fails you will have no brakes. I recommend in addition to the mc you rebuild or replace all 6 wheel cylinders (fronts have 2 each) also the 3 brake hoses and if the steel brake lines are in bad shape they also should be replaced and condition of shoes checked and replaced if necessary. If you do the work your self parts should run around $300.00 not sure what it cost to have it done by a repair shop but still cheaper then a accident. Not trying to discourage you for keeping the car just trying to keep you safe Ed
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Ever get suckered into a subscription like this?
oldmopar replied to Mr. Belvedere's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I would turn the tables and file harassment charges on them with the attorney general, better business bureau and what ever consumer agency you have in your state . The best defense is to attack not retreat especially in a case like this. -
When I said tar paper its just a old term for the underlay that goes on a roof before the shingles go down I guess it is some type of asphalt paper material. When I put the tank in my 52 I did not use any anti squeak just bolted it up metal to metal. It does not move and I do not hear any squeaks but after many years of being around noisy machines and equipment my hearing is not that good.