Andydodge

3WCoupe, gidday from another aussie, nice Coupe there, whats it running?..... I have never seen any TJ Richards production numbers published, the supposed reason is due to a fire in the TJR/Chrysler plant in Adelaide in the 40/50's that destroyed these details, but I'd be surprised if the numbers were that low, I have seen maybe a dozen or so 39 Dodge/Plymouth Coupes over the years, say since the late 60's when I got interested in cars......my second car was a 1940 Oz Dodge Coupe, this pic of my car in the Dodge Story article in Eddie Ford's old Custom Rodder Magazine # 14, Mar/May 1972......I had this car from 1970 thru to about 1988, I bought the 1940 Dodge Sedan originally as spares for this Coupe in 1971, I still have the 'ol brown Turd, and I've also this 1941 Plymouth Coupe........btw the rear end pic of your car reminded me of a little known piece of info......all Oz Dodge/Plymouth Coupes & Roadsters from 1936 to & including 1940 used the same bootlid......does yours have the flat stamping on the inside frame pressing for both the boot hinges at the top and the dickey seat hinges on either side?.......I've seen this feature on all the Coupes/roadsters including the 4 1940 Coupes I've seen........anyway Welcome to the best Mopar info site on the internet......these are a great bunch of guys.........Andy Douglas

I have a 40 Dodge & 41 Plymouth and both have essentially the same chassis, that front crossmember is as stated an inverted "U" with the cover plate on the bottom, both being riveted and welded together and to the chassis rails.......unless yours is rusted out I'd say the bottom piece has OR SHOULD HAVE plenty of integrity, it does have a pair of holes stamped into it to allow access to the radiator support frame nuts that are inside the top of the "U".........I've been stairing at the 1940 Dodge chassis since 1970.............Andy Douglas

Rodney, that looks like a Chrysler Hemi, 331/354/392....physically much larger than the 241/270 Dodge Red Ram Hemi........personally I'd be happy with any of them.........lol, but the Red Ram would be an easier fit in the early Mopars.........still, as said, either would do........lol..........I have a 318 poly in my 1940 Dodge, the poor mans hemi..........andyd(apologies for the poor pics)

I know where there are 2 39 utes slowing becoming one with their surroundings, pity......tho this guy wasn't particular........he also has let a couple of 35/36 Ford Roadster Utes, 39 Ford Convert, 39 Ford Roadster and other cars rust away to nothing............but 39 plymouth/Dodge Coupes are fairly rare now.........nothing like these are in wrecking yards now.........andyd

On the inside of the door edge, below where the window pops outa the channel...........never seen a real convert in the flesh but thats my guess.........andyd

Regarding the 39 Plymouth Coupe, I know that particular car, it was originally a pale green, very nice condition when purchased by a mate from I think the original owner back in the late 70's........thats a TJ Richards body, made in Australia was only used for 1939, 37/38 useda two dr sedan as the "coupe".........the "willys" coupe style body was used by both Dodge and Plymouth in Oz in 1939 and was also used by Willys. 1939 Dodge & Plymouth Utes also used the basic coupe roof shell and front sheet metal.......andyd

Now I'm not sure whether I'd rather have rusty or loose nuts.............lol.........andyd

What ended up working for me to get the tube out was using a pair of the LARGEST flat bladed screw drivers I had, about 15-18" long, then I had the block on the ground resting on its bellhousing end, with the front facing up..........inserted both screwdirvers at an angle into the "slot" that the tube fits into and basically wedging each screwdriver into the side of the tube then, push down on the drivers and hopefully it will start to move up/out of the hole..........you can access the tube from some of the intake/exhaust manifold bolt holes on the side of the block, those that piss water out when the bolt is removed go straight into the water tube hole, also there is some access from the top of the block.......I flooded the tube over a period of mths and tried various ways of using a slidehammer, etc but it wasn't till we tried the lever approach with the 2 drivers that they applied sufficent force to both sides of the flatened water tube and with them being pushed both into the tube and downwards onto the block face the thing moved..........its a mongrel of a job, that i'd hate to try with the engine in the car.........mine was out.......good luck.........andyd

I have been getting car mags since the late 60's.......Rod & Custom, occaisonal Hot Rod, Hot Rod Deluxe, used to get Rod Action, StreetRodder, Traditional Rod & Kulture, Hop Up, Australian Street Rodding, Aust Restored Cars, Aust Cruizin, Australian Classic Wings.........like car mags with stockers,rods,customs & muscle cars.......don't like bimbo, tiki,Kulture ,tattoo and other Crap Rod magazines.......like chrome,shiney paint,mags,whitewalls, chrome, more chrome.........did I mention chrome?...........oh.....and any magazine that has chrome and shiney paint.........andyd

I had a pair of exhaust manifolds welded up to convert them to a dual split system. I cut the manifolds myself and had them welded by a blacksmith(I'm in the country, lol).............I would check the local phone book for either a good competent welder or blacksmith.......I can oxy, stick & MIG weld mild steel but I thought that cast Iron really needs someone who knows what they are doing........lol..........so I went to The Man........lol..........and got a good job.........andyd

I dunno if this helps but as I'm RHD none of our cars have the linkage/bellcrank arrangement that you LHD guys & lady have.......I've attached a pic of the basic carb setup on my mocked up engine.....dunno if this helps at all.......what actually do you need to see Rebecca?........Andyd

I'd be interested in a cloth patch and/or window sticker/s.........andyd

Best I've ever had was the Edgy Finned head, it was sent from Earl Edgerton in Ca. USA and took 4 days from sent to arrival here in country NSW, Australia.......and as it was trackable I was able to watch it leave L.A., fly across the pond, land in Sydney, get sent up to the country delivery centre, then arrive at my local post office and be delivered to me by about 10am in the morning.......its a small world.............andyd

Fred.........you better hurry up getting the package tray done.........otherwise whatarya gunna put the grille whisker piece on when it gets to canukville........lol........andyd

So I suppose that if sticking the thing in the lower end doesn't work you remove it and insert in the patients mouth.........lol..........if the air doesn't resusitate the patient then the taste will..........lol.......andyd

O/k....well here the pic now......andyd

Milt.........heres a pic of its RHD cousin in Oz........your would look good on the road again..........andyd

Scotty, thats a neat car your dad had, but one thing......that was a Hot Rod or Street Rod.........never a ratrod.........ratrods are things that try to be something that never was, your dads Hotrod was just that......a hotrod........and a genuine one.............regards, andyd...owner of a hotroded 40 Dodge Sedan with a 318 Poly since 1973.

Pete......you and your website have a lot to answer for........lol..........and you should be very proud of your achievements.......I've printed out just about every page of your website and still enjoy and learn a few things each time I reread them.........many thanks and regards, Andy Douglas

Maybe the extra load on the front was enough to make the camber adjuster bolt on the upper outer pin or even the bush come loose, thats what i'd check 1st......andyd

Bump steer is when the cars tie rods go thru a different arc to that of the suspension, effectively trying to shorten/lengthen the tierods, which as they are set by the nuts on the tierod, means that as they can't be "shortened/lengthened" results in them then pushing/pulling the steering arms, giving you a "steering" effect.........Bump Steer.........andyd.

Oldmopar, with the tie rod that bent you should have a lot of toe out........unless of course the tierod ends have been adjusted to compensate for the bend and in that case you'll need to readjust them once the tierod is straight........btw thats a lot of bend in the tierod.....lol...........I'd check for a reason for this, ie, is the axle, steering arms, pitman arm/drag link/s o/k?.......tierods don't go bending by themselves...........lol.............andyd

Nah, unfortunately I won't be there............oh well......back to the salt mines..........lol...............andyd

Bob, nice pics........any spare white stuff?........lol........re garage/ workshop sizes........when we bought our house in 1992 I thought the double garage was great........didn't measure it and found out later after moving in that whilst 30' long is good.........18' wide is not.......both the plymouth & Dodge fit but can't open the outside doors of either when they are parked......why someone would build a garage 18' wide when there was enough space to make it at least 20-22' defies logic.....but its better than some have so i shouldn't grumble too much, attached pics show the width of the garage.........Bob........remember, if you find some spare snow, send it down here........andyd

James............check ebay as the pieces that clamp onto the bottom of the window for 1940/41 plymouths are regularly listed, the channels maybe different but they all seem to have the round rollers which I'd be surprised if they were different............when i was checking a few things on my 1941 Plymouth Coupe I found a broken roller in the bottom of the door and have kept it as I had never seen these things......this setup is different to the Australian vehicles and I just went and measured it, its 1 & 3/4" diameter.......dunno if this helps, my Plymouth Coupe is a factory RHD car from Sth Africa and has a US/Detroit body number so I would think its the same as the US cars...........regards, andyd