Andydodge

Pete, I'll take you up on that offer, let me know what the postage is, they should fit in a small padded bag..........the details are......Andy Douglas 44 Skinner Street Sth Grafton NSW Australia 2460......and can I pay you via paypal?.......regards, andyd

Or better still, replace the ball & trunion setup with the normal standard universal joint arrangement.........I have never been a fan of the ball & trunion and can't figure out why mopar used them as long as they did........even cost doesn't make a lot of sense as there is specific machining/casting etc for both the ball & trunion and sliding yoke/uni joint setup........andyd

Guys.........if you are sending anything overseas from the USA never send it anyway other than the US Postal Service......Fed Ex, UPS, etc are all much more expensive and quite frankly not much if ever quicker........I have been getting stuff from the US for over 25 yrs and I learnt very early on not to use anything other than the US Post Office........I understand why some prefer to use the private companies, as they do pickup etc but if you want to keep an overseas customer or friend happy never use anyone other than USPS........and as they have a website I can even calculate what the postage should be from sunny Sth Grafton on the east coast of Oz.........regards, andyd

Pete, surprise, surprise........I have a block that has a P11 engine number( note I said this rather than a P11 engine as NOW I am not sure...lol).........I pulled the sump off today, and on looking at the rear main cap I could see that I didn't have what I expected to see, ie, a rope seal.........I have a face mounted rubber seal, two piece, top and bottom as shown in your pics molded to a metal plate and held on via 3 small bolts into the main cap and block(buggar!!)........but what was even odder was that there are no "cap gaskets", those small "L" shaped rubber/neoprene pieces that sit in grooves either side of the main cap.......I have looked in all the Plymouth workshop manuals I have and it appears that no matter what type of seal is used there should be some sort of "cap gasket".........this would explain the damn oil leaks in some way I think.........so I have a complete Best gasket set for the 230 which has the correct "gap gaskets" and the "machined groove" seal, a rope seal on its way from Roberts in Mass. in the USA and a Sneaky Pete rope seal extraction/installation tool kit which is coming from Melbourne and I still don't have the correct seal thats in the mongrel car............so I am trying to decide whether the take the rest of the drivetrain, driveshaft, gearbox, etc up to the flywheel so I can install the face mount seal I don't have!!!!.................I HATE CARS!!!!!!!!...............lol.......well sometimes anyway.......now I feel better, am gunna, go lie down........oops..........thats what I just did........lol.................andyd

Greenbomb........the 23" engine came in 201, 217.8 and 230.2 capacities.........the 25" engine came in 218.06, 228.12, 250.6 and 265 capacities..........so you can see where the confusion arrises...........the 217.8 and 228.12 are different length engines, likewise the 228.12 and 230.2, both different engines............now are you sure about the IND230 being a 25" engine as I have a 230 Industrial engine and its DEFINATELY a 23" , 100% certain.............its gunna replace the 201 in my P11 Coupe........sounds like you need a 228 Dodge engine.........lol.......gets confusing doesn't it ............lol.......regards, andyd

Bob........who's that old codger with the Santa hat?........lol.........really, great pics mate........so I suppose your gunna say Cooper took the last pic?........lol.......regards, andyd

I grew up on Rocky & Bullwinkle, The Jetsons, The Beverly Hillbillies, Petticoat Junction, Gilligans Island, The Three Stooges, The Flintstones, Green Acres, Bugs Bunny, et al..........lol..........you Yanks have a lot to answer for!!!.........lol........andyd

Cicciobilly, welcome to the forum from downunder, the east coast of Australia, this is a great site with really helpful and knowledgable people........good luck with the car.........andyd

Pete, things will work out.......tho' I hope you're not doing that daily........regards, andyd

Pete thanks for the reply, I knew about your holefilling exercise, but it seems strange that mopar seems to have no definate dates, etc for when each type was introduced or if mopar knew, nobody else had been told........lol..........anyway I'll run with the rope seal at this stage, hopefully get into it this weekend........btw trust things are looking up for you re the economy, etc........I have a hobby/book shop and we've been in a 30-50% drop in sales from last Sept, tho' starting to pick up now.........been fun......lol.......andyd

Was talking to a mate who is a very exp'd, licenced mecahnic & hot rodder and mentioned my psyching myself up for the removal/instal of the rear main oil seal in my 41 Plymouth & he expressed surprise that there wasn't,as far as I knew, any replacement neoprene seal for the old rope seal. I told him that my understanding is that the rope seal must be replaced with a rope seal and that there are neoprene/rubber seals to suit the later engines but these don't have/can't fit the earlier rope seal engines........I have ordered a rope seal from Roberts in the US anyway and intend to fit this, my engine btw is the original with an engine number starting with P11 so I think I am pretty safe here.........I know there are differences between the rear main seal fittings/mount/block/crank and the later seals won't fit but has there ever been a metal/rubber aftermarket seal to replace the rope?( the reason I ask is that Oz GM Holden sixes have an aftermarket rubber seal to replace the original factory rope seal, which is why my mate assumed there should be something similar for the mopar six), ......also has anyone had experience with the "Sneaky Pete" rope oil seal tool?.........lots of questions..........lol...............thanks, andyd

Rock, from experience the problem with cutting a coil is that generally the old original coils that are the subject of this modification have usually saged a bit so that you can't be certain how much a specific cut will drop the front end..........lol............that being said, cut 2/3rds out of the 41 plymouth front coils and it dropped 2-3"..........mor than enough for me............andyd

Contact Earl Edgerton at Edgy Speed Shop, www.edgyspeedshop.com as he runs a magneto on his Bonneville car........regards, andyd

Looks fine to me, especially since its a 2dr sedan, these were never sold here in Oz so any pics of them, especially one this nice are always good........thanks, andyd

Is #1 a divining rod to use to find where exactly our mopar 6 is leaking water?.......lol...........seriously tho' .......no idea what it is.......andyd

Jim, that pan with baffles has me baffled.........lol................I know, pathetic joke..........but its the best I can do at short notice..........anyway, Jim, whats the pan with the baffle from?.......am psyching myself up to drop the pan..........lol.........had thought also about a windage tray but as the ol' mopar six has trouble getting up to any sort of revs that would require the crank being scraped I have my doubts about a windage tray.........still, there is the nascar idea in the back of my mind.........lol.........think I might go out the back and give myself a flogging.....lol......I'm a sick puppy.......lol....andyd

Will do..........whoever "restored" this car did a very average job.......no front sway bar, no oil filter, no door weatherstriping on either door, new windscreen rubber front & back but no sealer squirted under the rubber..........lots of little things.........lol..........andyd

The oil level is definately correct, haven't had the pan off yet so maybe there is an issue with the pickup which I'll be checking anyway, but just thought the baffle might be a way to go also.........we shall see.........andyd

I only have wheel bearing grease that is suitable for disc brakes, this is also known as HTB Grease or High Temperature Bearing Grease.......that way if I put it in disc brakes its fine, if I put it in drum brakes its fine......BUT IF I was to have "normal" wheel bearing grease that is not High temperature Bearing Grease and put that in a disc brake hub.........IT WILL FAIL.......trust me......ask me how I know.......ask me what a front wheel dust hubcap looks like trailing smoke dissappearing into the bush at 70mph looks like.........ask me what fun it is to remove the welded remains of wheel bearings from a stub axle on the side of the road.......nope, only one type of wheel bearing grease is now allowed into my garage.......HIGH TEMPERATURE BEARING GREASE.............end of sermon.......regards, andyd...........and Don is right, nose picking or itch scratching while bearing packing is an option that we all have tried at least once ..........but only once.......lol...............andyd

Has anybody decided to go the hi-po route when they had the sump off the flathead 6 in their mopar? What I am thinking of doing when I pull the sump this week in the process of doing the rear main oil seal is to make a sheetmetal "dam" to stop the oil sloshing around in the sump, mostly towards the front when braking........has anyone noticed the oil pressure drop on some occaisons when you hit the brakes?......this doesn't happen often and I know the oil level is correct but its very disconcerting when it does happen.........so has anyone seen or thought of making a little dam, I'd think about 1" high by the width of the sump welded at approx 90 degrees to the front slope of the sump.......does this make sense?........andyd(nascar here I come!!)

I took my own advice today and replaced the steering box isolators in my 41 Plymouth, had it up on stands to do the rear main oil seal and while the oil was draining outa the sump I decided to replace the rubber pads.......found that only one side of this here "restored" car had the metal ferruls, luckily I had some from the old steering box I had kept as a spare for some unknown reason for nearly 40 yrs(it was the original box outa my 40 Dodge, as it has used a rack & pinion since 1973 I have no idea why I kept it.....but glad I did........lol).........anyway turned out well........now just waiting for Roberts in Ma. to send the rope seal........gunna pull the sump off during the week and give it a scrub & paint........regards, andyd

Steve, looks great, thats a real nice blue, it feels good to have a win doesn't it.......lol......regards,andyd

Mike, can't help you but will send mean and vindictive thoughts to the scumbags who did this.........good luck in the hunt......andyd

Rob, think the water pump seal could be on the way out, I thought my Plymouth had a bung water pump as it was making a lot of noise in that directio, replaced it and found it was the crank pully coming loose from the crank hub........duh!!!.......anyway if I were you i'd try and confirm that its the water pump, it maybe the lower hose where it meets the pump leaking or from around that area and not the pump but if it is the pump then I'd get a new one unless you like playing with seals etc to put a kit in it........andyd

Alan, whilst I agree that its always best to buy the best quality, sometimes its not just about "saving" money..........sometimes its all someone can literally afford and therefore it does put a slightly different slant on their reasons. All of us who play with cars should appreciate the effort at whatever level a person puts into their car..........regards, Andy Douglas