Andydodge

Number 5 would be the plate that fits on the rear of the front bumper bar to align the crank handle to go thru the grille.....no idea about the rest tho'...........andyd

A leaf?........what happened to the rest of the tree?........did it eat it..........lol........Mopars is tough!................lol............andyd

Bob, great pics, its good that Cooper lets you come along on his drives in the country, I suppose his paws have trouble working the camera buttons otherwise he'd take the pics too...............lol........they're great pics of him looking out of the car........brought a smile to my face this morning, good way to start the day......regards, andyd

Marty, welcome from Australia..........these are a great bunch of guys, you'll enjoy it here, btw nice work on the Plymouth, regards, Andy Douglas

What size drill?............3/8th"...........lol...........maybe 1/16th might be better..........lol.......andyd

I am not a professional painter tho' I have painted a few cars over the yrs, I'd go over the car with a machine cutting compound BUT BY HAND, ie, make up some cotton pads and use the machine compound straight from the can if its a fine grade or if you're not sure, cut it with some water and test inside the trunk or door jams. After that then hand polish.......if you know someone that you can trust with a machine then fine, get them to polish it but make sure you tell them NOT to go anywhere near the dooredges, rain gutter edges, etc......those areas you should polish yourself by hand.....dunno if this helps.........andyd

My 1940 Dodge has shortened, welded steering arms, the ones that the tie rods attach to. These were done in 1975 by a licenced Automotive Blacksmith, who was used by various Australian racing car builders to do this exact work. I did not see him do the work, but they were shortened 1" which reduced the steering from 3 house blocks to a normal steering lock. The car uses a shorthened Austin 1800 rack and pinion. From memory the work required that the arms be reforged and welded or vice versa.........they have not been x-rayed and I suppose that is something that should have been done. They are still on the car and working fine. But point taken...........andyd

As I have said the Hemi 6 is as much of a hemi as my big toe.........but when it was introduced in 1970 in the VF series Valiants here in Oz in the 215 and 245 size it was a big deal and as hemi's were a big deal in the US, Oz chrysler tried to claim whatever they could in marketing it....the 1970 VG had a single barrel carb 215 & 245 then a WW stromberg 245 and finally in the Pacer version a single 4 barrel version.......but when the 1971 VH Valo arrived it wasn't till mid yr that the new 265 version was announced with the triple webers, the street R/T version had 240hp, the race version 270/280hp but they only had a 3 speed gearbox which limited them in racing, the next yr, 1972 the VJ series came out with a bigger cam, etc and I think were 270hp street and 310hp for the E49 Track Pack version with the 4speed......btw the engine blocks of the 215 & 245 grocery getter versions were a mid blue colour, the engine blocks of the 245/265 R/T and Pacer versions with the WW,4 barrel & Webers were always painted Hemi orange......and I agree.....they ain't REAL hemi's.......andyd

Thats why I am less than impressed with them.........Hemi my arse..............lol........and I'm in Oz!.......lol......andyd

Rock, does your front bumper have a dip in the centre when viewed from in front or a slight protrusion but no dip, only noticed when viewed directly from above........reason I ask is that your pic makes it look like a dip in the bumper as it was taken from slightly above.............lol..........andyd

Rock..oops.....and yes those chrome "wings" just bolt straight on the ends of the bumpers, my car has them front and back, and when using these wings you only have the single thin,tall overrider.........I only have a front one on my car, am looking for one for the rear bumper but as these overriders and wings were never used here in Oz I'll have to get one from the US......any spare?........lol...................andyd

Rock, I did a check on US ebay, Collector Cars 1940-49 which is a standard group I look under and there are a few 1940 Dodges, a 1940 deSoto and a couple of 1940 Chryslers.....from what I could see you front bumper looks closest to a 40/41 Dodge bumper with 1940 Chrylser overriders......the 1940/41 Plymouth basic bumper bar is the same for both yrs, but the overiders are different and 41 plymouths had those "wings" available either standar on the Special Deluxe P12 or as a dealer option........anyway I'd check ebay and other sites, all the bumpers would appear to have the same side profile, but differed in overriders, etc and shape as viewed from direct front on..........andyd

Steve, best thing about doing this is the wonderful way in which you find your body can be bent and twisted that you would have sworn was impossible........and if you are real lucky, you can also massage your fingers with that big hammer as you miss the drift you are holding........ah....ain't old cars grand......lol.....andyd

Personally I'd go by price as so long as the NOS ones have been stored properly there shouldn't be a problem with them and if new ones are priced cheaper, again if they are done properly they should be fine, until they are used theres nothing that can go wrong with them.

Rock, I mentioned that I wasn't sure about the bumper as all the 40/41 Plymouth pics I've seen and looking at the bumpers on both my OZ 1940 Dodge(which is based on the 1940 Plymouth) and my 41 Plymouth Coupe show the same bumper, albeit with different overiders and wings(on the 41 Plymouth) but the same bumper.....that one on your car reminds me of a 1940 or 41 Dodge bumper as the 40 Dodge (the proper US one, not my Oz car)had a "dip" in the bumper and I think the 41 Dodge also had a similar treatment.......I'd use it until or unless I could be sure or come up with something else........personally it still looks o/k......andyd

Sqirt some WD40 or even some(very little) fuel around the inside of the lip to tyry & moisten the seal....it should just be held/stuck onto the cork gasket.........BUT NO GRINDING EVER......andyd

Steve, you mention that you had to drill out the kingpin cotter pin, these normally have a slight machined angle on one side so that when they are installed the machined "flat" is against the similar piece on the kingpin.......if you wire brush both sides of the area where the cotter pin is on the upright you can usually see on one side an area showing the faint machined edge, ie its not fully "round".....that is the side you hit to remove the cotter pin, a few REALLY GOOD WACKS with a large hammer against a 5/16 or 3/8 brass or steel drift should move it, then just tap out.......andyd

The Oz 215/245/265 "Hemi" 6 is about as much of a hemi as my big toe.......o/k, well just slightly more than my big toe.........its an inline 6, apparently originally designed in the USA as a truck engine or so the Oz scuttlebutt goes.....anyway, its an inline 6, NOT a crossflow, all intake/exhaust manifolds are on the Oz passenger/US drivers side and the only hemi thing about it is that the intake/exhaust valves are canted slightly away from each other ALONG the head centre line, the rocker cover has some indents on one side.......like a poly?........nope..........the only Cool hemi 6's are the 265 R/T versions that ran Webers, 3 45mm DCOE's with either 270 or 310hp, big cam, extractors(headers), twin plate clutch, etc ........rev like a shower of ****..............but a HEMI?........nope, no cigar.........Andyd

Pekka, I have amate here in Oz who has a mid 70's New Yorker also, have sent him an email, his name is Brian O'Connor so if you get an email from him, he's o/k........andyd

Rock.........me again..........Andyd from the Hamb.........re your car, with the chrome/stainless trim around the front window and the thin chrome/stainless piece on the door above the beltline chrome piece it could be a P11 but more likely a P12, there should be a plate on the upper part of the firewall that will have P11 or P12 stamped into it........either way its definately a 1941......and more than a nice old car........only thing I was thinking when I looked at the front on pics was that it may have a Dodge bumper bar as the one thats on it has a slight dip in the centre.......I could be wrong tho......either way its still nice.......lol.......andyd

Thomba.......just to confuse you even more.......lol......heres a couple of pics of my 1941 Plymouth P11 ASC(Auxillary Seat Coupe)Coupe......it uses the same body shell as all Plymouth "business" coupe body shells BUT NOT the longer rear body shell of the 42-48 Club Coupes. The ASC meant that it has the normal front seat with a single seat back that lifts up from the bottom edge until its level with the top of the front seat........whilst holding it up you then fold the hinged seat bottom into the area behind the seat back, the metal spike that the seat base used to hold it off the floor is also hinged and folds up automatically......you then grab the seat on the other side and do the same again, with both seats folded up into the vertical boot partition you then gently lower the rear seat back, back down and it just sits there....BUT you now have a large carpeted area for more luggage.......The seats when folded out only offer very occaisonal seating(auxillary seating) , ideally for children up to about 10-12yrs as the seats sit very low to the floor, an adult would find the two seats very uncomfortable after a short while..........have attached a couple of pics, will have to get some with the seats folded up but you can see the split in the seat bottom indicating the 2 separate seats..........my understanding was that this option was deleted once the longer Club Coupe was intorduced as it had a "proper" rear seat...........My car is a factory RHD car built in Sth Africa and apparently quite uncommon with the ASC option.

I had sound in the front of the 41 Plymouth for a while, thought it was the water pump, nope..........it ended up being the crank pulley being loose on the crank hub.......the 6 or 8 rivets that held the two together had come loose.........only a bit mind you but enough to make a sound..........lol........was just gunna weld the pulley & hub together but decided to bolt them together as I could'nt find any rivets the correct diameter, because of where they went thru the hub and to allow clearance etc it was a fiddly **** of a job, but ended up being done "right".............lol................I should have just welded them together , tacked at equidistant spots around where they fitted.........lol......but I know its done right.........I think..lol...........andyd

Maybe I'm a tightwad, but that went for $510.00.........for that I'd want it hand delivered..........andy(tightarse)d

Capt Fred.........lol.....you ain't the only one.....That Blueskies guy has a lot to answer for........lol.........Pete's website and his overall passion about his Plymouth have inspired myself and a heap of others to moparise their Mopar.........many thanks mate!......andyd

You play aerial ping pong?..........Oz rules is a taste I haven't aquired...........lol, re utes both Ford and Holden still do a ute, tho both seem to be more the hipo versions now rather than the working ute, but they both still do a base model.........andyd