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The Oil Soup

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Everything posted by The Oil Soup

  1. To paint, or not to paint, that is the question......whether tis nobler in the mind to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous patina haters, or to link arms with a sea of decorative and protective coating pushers, to join and please them?
  2. That is some awesome red patina!
  3. . I have those same wheels on my B4B ( truck ) 6 or 7" wide x 17", they are a little too wide for the front do you know if they are available in a 16" wheel? What vehicle were those originally found on? Thanks, Gary
  4. Drivers side on the outside of the frame just above the front leaf spring mount
  5. I'm hoping to use just the wheel well openings and perhaps the leading edge of the fenders. This guy went the other direction and changed the rear wheel well openings. This was on the HAMB
  6. Well that went over like a lead balloon!
  7. Look at the dimensions on the website (or ebay) and the cc4749 is very close to the stock rad with the location of the filler neck and size and location of the hoses. I plan on getting one soon for my B4B, perhaps it's different on the earlier B series trucks?
  8. Has anyone grafted early c series (54-56) front fender openings to a B4B? They would match the existing rear fenders and help with the half in the future, half in the past look of that transitional year. Is it doable? The overall shape of the c and b fenders seems very similar.
  9. Thinking about the salt flat wheels for my truck, they look super on your car!
  10. You come from the other side and taper the hole so it has an hour glass shape and the drag link can be mounted from either top or bottom
  11. . The axle is heated and stretched between the kingpin mount and spring mount. That area is very stout and after its dropped it doesn't look any different than stock.
  12. With Sids dropped axle ( http://www.droppedaxles.com/ ) the axle is lowered and all measurements reset to stock specs. I also reversed the spring eyes and removed one leaf. Now the tie rod and drag link wouldn't clear the springs so I used speedway motors dropped tie rod ends ( http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1948-64-Ford-Pickup-Tie-Rod-End-Drops,50152.html ) which drop the tie rod 1.5" and require shortening the tie rod ( 5 or 6" ) and resizing the mount in the steering arms. Lastly the drag link end at the steering arm is rotated 180 degrees to attach from the underside.
  13. Im dealing with two problems, 1) Charlie Akers disc brake kit moves the steering arm closer toward the pittman arm and I will need to shorten the drag link and 2) with Sids dropped axle I need to mount the drag link to the underside of the steering arm rather than the top. Having a drag link with adjustable ends will resolve both issues. Moog tie rod ends # ES158R or L same as stock tie rod or drag link ends.
  14. That sounds like a plan, thanks
  15. I did a forum search on this subject with no luck. Maybe that's my answer- can the drag link be rebuilt? Or is it possible to take new tie rod ends and fab a new one?
  16. The month- day- year is cast into the head and driver side of the block. 218
  17. Now that's definitely a horse of a different color!
  18. I'd venture a guess you're probably in Arizona regardless of the vintage copper plate. Gary
  19. Yeah, but Ivory floats!
  20. A friend of mine works for his family's glass business in so cal and specializes in vintage cars. He says that Steele has the most accurate rubber especially for curved glass. The less expensive rubber can be too large/ small , wrong profile or poor quality material.
  21. On mine (B4B) it's on the rubber welt at the top rear of the front fender where it meets the cowl. Perhaps elsewhere also?
  22. . Hey Larry, whose tires are you running? Size, tubeless? Gary
  23. Red with off white bumpers, grille and top of cab and some faux rust.
  24. Judging by their measurements the aluminum replacement is slightly smaller than stock but all the inlet and outlet sizes and placement are right on the money.
  25. I've been looking at the cc4749 and think it may be a good fit for my B4B. Gary
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