kencombs

That is just like the one I had. At least looks like it. If so it has a diaphragm separating the air and fluid. Excellent tool. Wish you were closer I’d be at the yard sale

The lid doesn't even have a flat spot, it's kinda domed. I could flatten it, drill a hole and use a bulkhead type fitting, but I could drill and weld a standard fitting from my tool box on there while thinking about the alternatives.

I've never seen caps stamped, only bearings. Cranks are usually only stamped if they are going into the company stock. Customer supplied cranks,, drop-off and pickup may not be. All that I've had done had a paper tag attached. Machinists don't machine or stamp bearings, they just turn the crank and order, or remove from stock, the right size. I've never even bought bearings from a machinist, other than a big rebuilders that used to offer a package, cleaned and bored block with new cam bearings installed, crank, bearings, rings and pistons. Good for me as no wait time for the work, they had the popular ones in stock.

I looked into those and it's an option. What put me off is the reports of 'vague' steering, no feel or feedback. No experience, just what I read. Not an issue for me, but if using on a generator system it would likely drain the battery in low speed driving.

Just a caution on homemade or cheaper pressure bleeders, be sure not to expel too much fluid before refilling. Most cheap solutions don't separate the air from the fluid and can refill you system with air if not refilled with fluid soon enough. Older, professional models had a diaphragm separating the the two. Sure wish I hadn't sold mine. I plan to weld a fitting into my reservoir cap to attach a hand pump, even a bicycle pump would work. I'm using a later, firewall mounted master so the lid isn't thick enough to just drill and tap.

I don't think I've ever seen a crank that was machined for a customer(rather than for shop use) marked, other than a paper tag attached. Big rebuilders always attach a metal tag to the block somewhere, usually riveted on. On my current engine, it had no tag, no markings at all on the crank or block. Pistons stamped .040, bearing shells marked on the back, .020, probably a rebuild in the past at an independent shop. Like I've always done, tear down, measure, send crank and/or block to the machine shop, and probably two different shops. Local guy did boring, cranks went to a bigger shop, or just pick up and exchange crank at a local engine rebuilder. I then picked up and assembled, usually after a hone in my place to my liking. I usually did the valves but had the head surfaced at a machine shop.

I have one in progress using an 85 Toyota 4WD box, on my '56. I have it mounted and an 83 Firebird tilt column temporarily in place. Connected together with a couple of ujoints and double D shafting. The box input shaft and steering column are parallel, but not coplanar, so the ujoints are needed. The Pitman arm isn't complete but will be the Toyota arm with the bends removed and a hole instead of the Toy ball. The mounting places the end of the pitman arm within 1/8" of the original, so bump steer will not be an issue as the geometry will be essentially unchanged.

Seems mopar wasn’t consistent on this. I’ve owned a 58 325 poly, 61 383rb, 56.51&54 flatheads. All had the nuts on the engine side. And required a specific wrench to deal with them. That’s why you see so many folks on the ‘net looking for ways to dismantle a stuck engine. No nuts reachable after removing the transmission

All that I've seen in the last 65 years of working on engines (yeah, I'm that old) have been printed, not stamped, on the back side. Sometimes a base P/N followed by a - and numeric undersize print. Sometimes just the undersize. I have no idea what the print material is but it stands up to hot oil.

Is your main case and OD case? Non-OD cases do not have the hole for the lockout rod.

IME, almost all of the cracks are due to freeze or overheating, especially the valve to valve or valve to cylinder. That shared exhaust passage gets really hot with the coolant gets low. Pan rail cracks happen when the water freezes.

I made the remark about cracks in Ford flathead V8s because I distinctly remember a past experience. I picked up a nice 53 Ford, flathead 8 with lots of cracks and a Fordomatic in need of a rebuild. So, off to Dad's salvage to find parts to fix, stick shift stuff, ( no fun at all the pull all those pieces from the auto and stick car and reinstall in the survivor), then the search for a block. No impact wrench then, just breaker bar, sockets and ratchet. 24 bolts per side, 48 per engine and a total of 24 blocks before finding one not cracked between valve seats or seat to cylinder wall. And that one had a scar from a slipped wrist pin that had to be sleeved. Made a really slick old Ford, but I'll never forget removing 1152 bolts in one day!

First of all, a flathead v8 would most likely be a Ford, vastly inferior to the Mopar. Cool engine but not super reliable. Hard to find good ones due to block cracks. Expensive to rebuild. Second, everything is different. Any Mopar flat six can be used, but larger 25" head versions require some oil pan/front crossmember work and radiator relocation. Use your clutch housing, clutch and trans, no need to change the whole thing.

Sorry to hear that as the engine should come out. Dropping the crank in the car is much more work than pulling the engine before disassembly. EDIT: I wouldn't even consider that. The crank may be able to be turned, utas .040 under used to be available if ,030 will not clean it up. But be sure bearings in the final size are available for ordering. Or, it can be welded up, at extra cost of course.

Well, IMHO factory with a mod or two is the way to go. There is a way to implement full auto with an override that allows an electrically operated downshift without a full throttle lunge. Especially handy when anticipating the need to pass or before actually lugging down on a steep hill. Much better for everything to avoid full throttle whenever possible. Simple switch that mimics the throttle switch.

Probably sintered metal that is partially iron powder. If it is only partial iron the magnetic pull will be markedly less that a normal steel/iron piece. Including iron in the mix doesn't necessarily make the whole a bad thing. I'd be inclined to trust the name. Timken has a long history or quality.

That read part is true for sure! They are laws, not suggestions.

Oh, definitely not reusable. My assessment was relative to overall crank/bearing condition, not to extend their life.

Yes, lots of acid erosion, but that isn't terrible as it's not from motion/wear, just static damage. That is always isolated to the bearing, not the crank, at least in my experience. The scratches don't appear to be through the wear layer, no bronze or brass showing. I can't tell from the pic if the oil hole spot is oil, carbon, bearing material or ??? But, IME if the wear layer gets wiped it normally shows the underlying metal.

Being in the exact center is not important as you need at least two measurements anyway, preferably 3 along the axis of the journal and 2-3 more 90 deg from that. The bearings actually pretty good, other than staining from long storage with acid containing oil in it. Normal acids from blowby. If in doubt of your measurements and/or clearance, clean it off and put it back on with some Plasti-gauge and remove all doubt.i edit: I agree with your measurement on the first pic, can't see the second well enough.

Even if one wanted to replace all that stuff, it is way overpriced. Bet it could be bought piecemeal for under 300 bucks.

Most of us don't have a cage to use when airing lock ring wheel/tire combos. I'm one of those without. Haven't done one in a while but when dealing with them , I put the wheel on backward, ring toward the inside before airing to higher pressures. Seat ring first with just a few psi in the tube. Might not be possible on all axle/frame/wheel combos but works on some. RuGlyde on the beads, corn starch in tire and on tube. Dad used to wrap a chain around the tire and thru all the wheel holes to retain all the pieces 'just in case'. Never seemed particularly safe to me. A local tire shop operator in my home town was killed by one of the two piece widow-makers when I was a little kid. Hearing the description in adult conversation made me very cautious my whole life.

Doesn't even require a fault. The points in a stock ignition system, brushes in starter and/or generator will provide a spark. Gas leak from any source on a hot engine, followed by a shut down and restart are the worst case situation. Leaking gas vaporizes, no fan moving air, heavy vapor accumulates in the engine compartment, then a restart creates the spark. Especially risky if one parks in a garage. Not a common situation, but one I would take care not to have occur.

I was going by his last sentence which says it happened when he turned it on.

I agree with you that could happen, but only because it is a Pertronix. Points system won't do that because they fire on points opening. With the points open at rest there is no current flowing so it won't fire. Closed at rest there is current but the closed points don't interrupt the flow so spark. I have read that Pertronix fires on point closing, but have no personal experience with them.